RainmanP

I have mentioned before that my favorite cassette is a Shimano 9-speed 14-25, 14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25, because I can't even push 52/14 except with a serious tailwind. I'm just realistic and would rather have the 25 when I need it. In a first of a series of bike reviews in the current Pro Cycling, Chris Boardman is talking about his current personal bike and component choices. He uses Dura Ace 9-speed. In explaining why he did not feel the need for 10 speed cogset, he discusses the narrowness of the chain and cog spacing and the resulting extremely accurate adjustments leaving little room for error. He also mentions that he does not need an 11T cog and only ever used the 11 for downhill chasing and that he was able to hold Cipollini's wheel with the 12 at something like 73 kph (or maybe it was 78). He further states that most people don't even need a 13. Which brings us back to my 14! I just found his analysis interesting. Come to think of it, my young friend who is racing in Belgium considers it worthy of mentioning in his race descriptions when he has to use his 12.

Of course you have to weigh my choice against the fact that I'm just an old fat guy who believes in having lower gears than he thinks he needs rather than higher gears he cannot use.
Rainman

Rich Clark

Heck, yes. I currently have a 12-34 on my commuter (with a 52-42-30 in front) and I'd rather have a 13-34. The only reason I don't is you can find a 12-34 9sp XT cassette for $40, and a 13-34 would have to be made up special and would cost a lot more.

I did once spin out a 52-11 combo going downhill. I was scared to death. I'll never do it again. I was imagining what it would be like to have a front-tire blowout right then. "Mommy, see the flying man in his spandex superhero suit! He must be Plastic Man, he's all bendy!"

At my age and condition downhills are a nice rest. I'm much more concerned about having low enough gears to get up the next inevitable climb.

RichC

RainmanP

I hear ya, RichC! Hey, man, don't settle for what the manufacturer's put together. You probably use just a couple of cogs most of the time. When those get worn, just get a 14-25 or 13-23, pull both apart and put together what you want. I do that all the time. Since you generally only wear out a couple of cogs at a time you can order individual ones from Harris Cyclery for about 8 bucks each.

When I know I am going someplace with steep spots I replace the 25T cog with a 34, put on an LX rear der and a 48-34 crankset. Takes about 10 minutes and gets me down to a 27 inch gear if I really need it.
Rainman

mrfix

Hi Rainman
I just finished a new touring bike, I've been riding an old Raleigh technium set up with shimano ultegra double crankset, front and rear derailure and botom bracket, Dura-Ace cassette, chain and STI shifters. I have two sets of wheels, one for riding with the bunch, a lightweight set of velocity arrrow head rims laced to real hubs, on that set of wheels I run an 11-23 cassette. I also have a set of heavy duty touring wheels built up with Mavic - 519 rims laced to ultegra hubs for commuting and short touring. On that wheel set I have been running a dura-ace 12 - 27, up front I have a 39 - 53, This has worked well for me for most riding, My max bike weight has been 55 pounds to this point. When I built my new bike I wanted to tool it up for heavy touring so I Installed the new shimano dura-ace tripple, 30 - 39 - 53 in the front and a shimano XTR, 12 - 34 in the rear, the cogs are as follows, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 26, 30, 34. So far I put about 200 miles on the bike and I think I really like it, It seems to be geared correctly for most riding situations, It is quite different from the gearing I'm used to but, I'm finding great gears for most situations. I was worried about the 53 tooth ring being to big but I don't think is going to be. One positive thing that I have found is that when unloaded, it goes down the road like a road bike, not a touring bike, it's actually quite fast. and when loaded it climbs quite well. I chose that set up because I tried to build a more well rounded useful bike, one that would have the power gears for touring and long days in the hills and fast gears so I could tool around with the road riders in town and not have them wait for me. I think it's going to work.

orguasch

I have on my cogs 11x 21 and its 11,12,13,14,15,1617,19 and 21, and the most that I used is 14,15, and 16 I really seldom use 11, only when I am going down hill, it hard to push the 53 x 11, may be 53 x 14 then I can go places with that gearing...

John E

Well into the 1970s, a top gear of 100 to 108 inches (52/14 or 52/13) was nearly ubiquitous in racing and in touring. A 104-inch top gear was plenty for me 30 years ago and it still is. I am pleased to know that a 14-tooth high is still an option!

My road bikes: 50/13 (104), 52/14 (100), 48/13 (100)
My mountain bike: 48/13 (96)