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BB30 is awful

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Old 09-20-13, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
I love how BB standards are being deemed worthy or unworthy based solely upon whether or not two lazy SI wrenches can be bothered to install them properly.
I hate it when I agree with WhyFi...
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Old 09-20-13, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by coasting
so why did it need replacing?
Probably did what I did just last weekend. Had an ultegra octalink crank and internal threaded bb. Chainrings were shot. While inspecting the rings I noticed there was a very small amount of lateral slop, hardly detectable, I would say 1/4-1/2mm when really putting a load on it with your body weight. It spun almost as smoothl as the new one. I decided to change it while I had everything off and cleaning it just because. I was about 9 or 10 years old and I wanted to take it apart once. That's what many don't get. Some people, not because lack of skills, only want to remove and replace things as little as possible. Btw, that bb would have probably lasted a lot longer. God only knows how Lon that small amount of slop was in it. Undetectable when riding.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle
They have made bbs the last for years on end. Why would I want one that has the very good potential to creak, need to be glued in or need to be changed more frequently. That is one thing that most aren't saying. Bb30 is not as durable an interface as a threaded internal bearing bb.
Then don't get it.

Sheesh.

BTW...I thought you were not going to argue for 10 pages. I think we are up to 13 pages now.

Maybe BB30 is over the paygrades of some. I will tell you that anything that's mid-range and up is going to have some some of press fit setup (like Trek BB90)...Like a TCR Giant Composite. Has Ultegra and Shimano PRESS FIT BB. Same with the Defy Composite. Defy 1 Aluminum, Shimano PRESS FIT.

Good grief...
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Old 09-20-13, 05:36 AM
  #304  
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^^^^ so true. I try to do nothing to the bike other than pump up the tyres before I take it out.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by roadwarrior
I hate it when I agree with WhyFi...
I never said it didn't work. My basis of discussion is its a more finicky set up. You might need loctite, you might not, might need more grease, retorqing. Anyone that disagrees with he fact that bb30 is a little more work to get right, and does need more service intervals than an integrated screwed in cartridge, is really not being truthful. That's my only point. It's a system that works well when it's working, but needs more to tlc. The setup does not have the longevity of bbs of the past.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:38 AM
  #306  
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Originally Posted by roadwarrior
Then don't get it.

Sheesh.

BTW...I thought you were not going to argue for 10 pages. I think we are up to 13 pages now.

Maybe BB30 is over the paygrades of some. I will tell you that anything that's mid-range and up is going to have some some of press fit setup (like Trek BB90)...Like a TCR Giant Composite. Has Ultegra and Shimano PRESS FIT BB. Same with the Defy Composite. Defy 1 Aluminum, Shimano PRESS FIT.

Good grief...
yup. My ladies Giant Aimez had an internal BB with a shimano crankset, so I assume it is a press fit. I didn't realise shimano did press fit BB.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by coasting
yup. My ladies Giant Aimez had an internal BB with a shimano crankset, so I assume it is a press fit. I didn't realise shimano did press fit BB.
I believe the giants use a sleeve or adapter. Shimano cranks aren't compatible as of right now with bb30 in the true sense. It's why you can't get a cannondale with a shimano crank.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:44 AM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
That's about 8 months of use for me. I replaced my Hollowtech II BB after 112,000km, and it was still smooth/no slop.
If my bb30 bike was exclusive to me, these days that would be an annual change. I do have an older da 7400 cartridge with 250000km that I put on plus whatever the southland corporation riders put on before. For longevity, can't be beat. But the frame design considerations for bb30 w/r to stiffness to me are real. My Hollowtech II bike has 30000km on the bb. It's creaked from the beginning but it sees the most crappy weather duty, so I have been lazy.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:44 AM
  #309  
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by the way, that aimez is a fantastic ride. feels so plush. my male friend has a tcr advanced sl but from a few years ago and the aimez is from last year. he said it rides better than his. a bit of exaggeration i'm sure, but it really is nice.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:51 AM
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I don't think that is offered in the US. I never heard of it. Hmmm. I'm a big giant fan too.
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Old 09-20-13, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle
You don't thread lock wheel lugs. They're torqued to spec. Most fasteners have a torque spec. Specs on engine bolts and bolts that are under a lot of stress, a lot of the time use torque to yield bolts. Many of these get torqued, and then are specced to get turned a 1/4 turn after you reach specified torque. These type of bolts mushroom so they don't loosen. You shouldn't run around saying I don't know what I'm talking about.
If you had any shame, you would be embarrassed. I might add, a common dynamic amount among those that don't know what they are talking about.
Further, guys like you aren't introspective enough to learn anything.

Torque to yield bolts do not mushroom. Torque to yield bolts are used to accommodate expansion and contraction of mating parts...like heat cycle repetitions with rapid temperature differential and different coefficients of thermal expansion, thereby maintaining consistent part clamping...like in cylinder head applications.

Loctite is used all over an automobile in applications where vibration can affect fastener retention.

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Old 09-20-13, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
If you had any shame, you would be embarrassed. I might add, a common dynamic amount among those that don't know what they are talking about.
Further, guys like aren't introspective enough to learn anything.
Torque to yield bolts do not mushroom. Torque to yield bolts are used to accommodate expansion and contraction of mating part...like repeated heat cycle repetitions, thereby maintaining consistent part clamping...like in cylinder head applications.
Loctite is used all over an automobile in applications where vibration can affect fastener retention.
I'm not going to argue with you although you feel it is necessary to consistently attack and denigrate me. All this over a bb discussion. Answer me one question, and ill ask it without making a defamatory comment about you. Are bb30 bearings as serviceable (as long lived) as a threaded internal sealed bb? Just answer it yes or no. I'm talking from the time you put it in to the time you frat have to take either one of them out again for any reason.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:08 AM
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i had to take out a cup and cone square taper bb once. the replacement sealed square taper one is smooth as a baby's bottom with butter on it.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
If you had any shame, you would be embarrassed. I might add, a common dynamic amount among those that don't know what they are talking about.
Further, guys like you aren't introspective enough to learn anything.

Torque to yield bolts do not mushroom. Torque to yield bolts are used to accommodate expansion and contraction of mating parts...like repeated heat cycle repetitions, thereby maintaining consistent part clamping...like in cylinder head applications.
Loctite is used all over an automobile in applications where vibration can affect fastener retention.
I used the wrong word, and I admit when I've made an error. They stretch/yield. My original point is sill valid from my original example with lug nuts.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:09 AM
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Oh anyone who was wondering about PF30 BBs I can say this: No creaking in a Specialized OSBB frame (Despite the fact that the cups are a little too long in that case). My PF30 BB also lasted all new-england winter long. I think some of those bearing life issues people are having are either bad bearings (Quite possible), or just improper installs. If you press BB30 (Or any other bearing) bearings in they really need to go in nice and straight or they can get really screwed up, trust me I know.......

Also I will say it again: You must grease dat shiz during install. Grease, grease, grease (I know loctite is spec'd, probably a better, more permanent route but I am a fan of the grease)
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Old 09-20-13, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle
Not what I meant, and I'm sorry if it came across that way. In my experience, and the 150 people or so in my club, they obsess with carbon fiber, light wheels, plastic bottle cages etc. they scrimp over every gram to save a lb or 2, while they themselves are 25lbs over weight, or even 10-15lbs overweight. Seems kind of silly to spend thousands of dollars to me in order to shave grams when you can just eat a little less for free, while at the same time actually Savin money on your food bill. I'm no trying to be mean, it's just a backwards logic to me.
Danielle, that is because you are focused only on speed and what affects it. As I have said ad nauseum before, some people like me just like a light bike for the way it feels, the way it rides, the satisfaction of having accomplished it. Losing body weight has nothing to do with that. While I don't care for the means of achieving this supposed lighter BB 30 assembly, I applaud the lightening it provides. And that is whether or not it ever makes anyone faster. Repeating myself again, if you have never ridden a 13.0 lb bike, you really can't comment intelligently about it. Borrow one of your club friend's bikes in that weight range and give it a try. Then come back and say that losing body weight is preferable. Maybe you will go faster on the loaner, maybe not, but I guarantee you will never think that bike weight is interchangeable with body weight again.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by coasting
yup. My ladies Giant Aimez had an internal BB with a shimano crankset, so I assume it is a press fit. I didn't realise shimano did press fit BB.
Shimano calls it BB90. I'll post an article on servicing in a minute.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:28 AM
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I've ridden all sorts of light bikes. Giants cannondale evo etc. it does feel nice to ride a light bike, no argument. If we are talking about speed, weight makes more of a difference. I never argued the point of having a nice light bike feels good. It bothers me when people who ride in my a group fit into the description I provided above. We are talking about two different things.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:28 AM
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https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/art...rackets-29544/

Hopefully the link still works....
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Old 09-20-13, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle
My original point is sill valid from my original example with lug nuts.
No, it's not valid. It's a horrible comparison to make and the fact that you think they're parallel shows what you don't know.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:30 AM
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I'm surprised no one is objecting to the notion that BB30 (and other similar) bearings need to be replaced (according to C4L and I assume his literature sources) twice a year. No matter what type of BB, loose bearings square taper, clipped bearings square taper, sealed bearings square taper, octalink, hollowtech and its competitors, I have never had to replace bearings period! Many thousands of miles, many years, they just keep on quietly rolling. Sure in the days before seals, loose bearings needed overhaul every now and then, cleanup and regrease, but I never had them fail. What's with this new BB30 bearings twice a year thing? Why would you replace bearings before they fail when the only thing they can hurt is themselves? Especially in an assembly that you suspect may have only a limited number of installation cycles in its useful lifetime? Why not just leave them alone until you hear a problem? What's the risk, one noisy ride?
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Old 09-20-13, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by coasting
so why did it need replacing?
It didn't need replacing, but my bike was creaking for an unknown reason. I had a spare BB from a build I never finished, so I swapped the BB hoping to quiet the creak.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:46 AM
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I don't understand where the whole replace 2 times a year came from...
I now have two years on my BB30 bearings without a hitch.
I also have a pair of screw on sealed outboard bearings on my other bike which I have to replace pretty soon. They lasted about three months silent in a very dry cold winter environment. After that It's been creak creak creak.

Also the BB30 is the first BB that has no broken with my use. The types I've used so far are ISIS, square taper, GXP and fauber. Every one of those broke pretty quicky with heavy use.
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Old 09-20-13, 06:52 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I'm surprised no one is objecting to the notion that BB30 (and other similar) bearings need to be replaced (according to C4L and I assume his literature sources) twice a year. No matter what type of BB, loose bearings square taper, clipped bearings square taper, sealed bearings square taper, octalink, hollowtech and its competitors, I have never had to replace bearings period
Hmmmm....I've put 6,000 miles on one BB30 bike this year origianl bearings still just fine.

the other two are older, no replacement. Smooth as silk.

Have no clue what this is about.
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Old 09-20-13, 07:16 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by Danielle
I never said it didn't work. My basis of discussion is its a more finicky set up.
Which it isn't. Compare: "Press two bearings in with loctite" to "face face BB shell, chase threads, prep threads with grease or pipe tape, carefully thread BB making sure not to cross thread". I know which one seems more straightforward to me.

The setup does not have the longevity of bbs of the past.
I haven't seen any evidence of that. I would suspect that square taper cartridge BBs might last the longest because the bearings are kept away from the elements, but any external setup has the same issues with water ingress.
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