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Power Meter - Need Help
I just got a Stages Power Meter and it says it does not need configured. I just did a 20 mile ride and I think my power is way high compared to what I've seen with other people on Strava. Here are my stats:
21 miles Avg Speed: 15.4 mph 1:21 moving time Avg HR: 158 I'm 37 and 260lbs Weighted Power Avg: 674w Avg Power: 663 W Max Power: 1,188 W Total Work 3,256kJ Is this way off or is it just because I weight twice as much as the average cyclist?? |
5.7w/kg for 81' is world class. With PED's. So, yeah I would guess it's a bit high.
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Originally Posted by pghbikedude
(Post 16140885)
I just got a Stages Power Meter and it says it does not need configured. I just did a 20 mile ride and I think my power is way high compared to what I've seen with other people on Strava. Here are my stats:
Is this way off or is it just because I weight twice as much as the average cyclist?? |
You'd know if you were putting out those watts. Send it back.
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Do you have two legs? Stages only measures left leg power and doubles the result. A big guy with one leg might hit that power level.
Or its broken... |
Originally Posted by gsa103
(Post 16141071)
Do you have two legs? Stages only measures left leg power and doubles the result. A big guy with one leg might hit that power level.
Or its broken... I did figure it out. Apparently it does need calibrated each time and you can't pedal while calibrating it has to be a 0 calibration. Did another test run up hill and was producing 250/300 instead of 600/700. |
Originally Posted by pghbikedude
(Post 16140885)
Is this way off or is it just because I weight twice as much as the average cyclist??
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Dude, you should be smashing Angliru/ Stelvio/ Alpe D Huez with no problem.
You might just put Cav into retirement too. |
I've been using the stages meter for a little over a month with great success. I ran a powertap simultaneously for a while because I was skeptical of the low price.
It does not need to be calibrated. The temperature is sampled every 20 seconds and small corrections to calculations are made. You should be performing a zero reset prior to each ride. The crank arm should be at the 6 o'clock position with no load during the reset. My meter came from the factory with the original firmware, which was buggy and its accuracy questionable at best. I'd definitely verify that you're running the latest version before training with it. |
Send it back. My first one was putting out an avg of 2000w spinning around town. My second one had a cracked plastic casing after two weeks. Im on my 3rd one now. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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