Trek Owners Unite and Post Your Bike Here!
01-01-15, 06:32 PM
#126
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2012 Madone 5.2
Got it with a XXX stem and rxl bars and a few other extras for $1350 with 200 miles on it.
Switched from white to black, just need new tires next season.
01-01-15, 08:13 PM
#127
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Bikes: 2012 Trek Madone 6.9ssl (brand new 12/30/15)
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01-01-15, 09:28 PM
#129
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Location: northern michigan
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Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
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Picked up this '86 Pro Series 760 back in September. Had my eyes on this for 2yrs and the owner finally decided to let it go. Bringing it home was the most distracting drive I've ever had.
01-01-15, 09:57 PM
#130
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: N.J.
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Bikes: 2001 Trek 5900, Trek Madone 3.1
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Nice SLR. Are those C35 wheels? How do you like them? Full Dura Ace all around is sweet.
01-02-15, 05:51 AM
#131
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SW ONTARIO
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Bikes: P1 Domane Di2, SLR Emonda Di2, Trek Farley 9 Fatbike
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Thanks, Yes C35's - just picked bike up earlier this week and it has been sub zero and very windy so no road action to report on. I chose the C35 as I wanted to avoid full carbon wheels. I'm a big guy 210-215# 6' , no warm fuzzy feeling about full carbon wheels or bars. My Domane has Bontragger RXL's and they have been great for last 4000kms. I wanted to try something else and all Dura Ace seemed like good option. Many said they are too light for my weight. My LBS has several 220# + racers on their team using these wheels with no issues and they are putting out some serious watts with zero problems.
01-02-15, 09:11 AM
#132
Senior Member
Thanks, Yes C35's - just picked bike up earlier this week and it has been sub zero and very windy so no road action to report on. I chose the C35 as I wanted to avoid full carbon wheels. I'm a big guy 210-215# 6' , no warm fuzzy feeling about full carbon wheels or bars. My Domane has Bontragger RXL's and they have been great for last 4000kms. I wanted to try something else and all Dura Ace seemed like good option. Many said they are too light for my weight. My LBS has several 220# + racers on their team using these wheels with no issues and they are putting out some serious watts with zero problems.
Last edited by Munk69; 01-02-15 at 09:16 AM. Reason: spelling
01-02-15, 09:22 AM
#133
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Bikes: P1 Domane Di2, SLR Emonda Di2, Trek Farley 9 Fatbike
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Are your RXL's the TLR's? Did you have any issues with knocking them out of true? I am about the same size as you and I knocked the Bontrager Race wheels out of true on the test ride I did on my new Domane 5.2. I am interested in the RXL TLR's, but I am now leery as the Race's did not seem to hold up well.
01-02-15, 09:33 AM
#134
Flyin' under the radar
Are your RXL's the TLR's? Did you have any issues with knocking them out of true? I am about the same size as you and I knocked the Bontrager Race wheels out of true on the test ride I did on my new Domane 5.2. I am interested in the RXL TLR's, but I am now leery as the Race's did not seem to hold up well.
01-02-15, 09:54 AM
#135
On Your Left
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Location: Long Island, New York, USA
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I ordered my SLR with "Race TLR" wheels since my LBS gave me a killer deal on a set of Zipp 303s.
I'm thinking of converting them to tubeless to see how they work/feel.
I'm thinking of converting them to tubeless to see how they work/feel.
01-02-15, 10:09 AM
#136
Senior Member
Do you guys feel like tubeless is really worth it? I have been told that if I run latex tubes in my wheels, they would feel closer to running tubeless. My tires are Conti GP4000s 25's.
I am just waiting on my bar tape to come in and I will be posting my Domane in this thread
01-02-15, 11:18 AM
#137
Flyin' under the radar
Dunno about latex tubes.
What I can say is that the difference in ride quality between clincher and tubeless is noticeable, with the tubeless riding smoother/absorbing more of the road. What sold me was the puncture resistance. Got a puncture once in the front, and the sealant sealed the puncture before I could come to a stop, and I lost a whopping 5 psi. Finished my ride as if nothing had happened, whereas I would have certainly been on the side of the road swapping out a tube had I just been riding traditional tubed clincher. So, for me, the improved ride quality and puncture resistance makes it worth it.
That said, installing a tubeless tire is more difficult than installing a clincher. For one, it was impossible for me to mount the tire without the use of tire levers. Two, it can be messy installing the sealant if you don't have a good sealant syringe. Three, you have to periodically install more sealant as the sealant in the tire dries out. So, a little more difficult to install and more maintenance, but it's not really that bad. Once you get used to it and establish a procedure that works for you, it takes marginally more time to install than a clincher. Since the sealant works so well, you're not really removing/re-installing the tire (like you would after every flat with a tubed tire) unless it's catastrophic or the tire's worn out, the scale is still tipped in the favor of tubeless for me.
What I can say is that the difference in ride quality between clincher and tubeless is noticeable, with the tubeless riding smoother/absorbing more of the road. What sold me was the puncture resistance. Got a puncture once in the front, and the sealant sealed the puncture before I could come to a stop, and I lost a whopping 5 psi. Finished my ride as if nothing had happened, whereas I would have certainly been on the side of the road swapping out a tube had I just been riding traditional tubed clincher. So, for me, the improved ride quality and puncture resistance makes it worth it.
That said, installing a tubeless tire is more difficult than installing a clincher. For one, it was impossible for me to mount the tire without the use of tire levers. Two, it can be messy installing the sealant if you don't have a good sealant syringe. Three, you have to periodically install more sealant as the sealant in the tire dries out. So, a little more difficult to install and more maintenance, but it's not really that bad. Once you get used to it and establish a procedure that works for you, it takes marginally more time to install than a clincher. Since the sealant works so well, you're not really removing/re-installing the tire (like you would after every flat with a tubed tire) unless it's catastrophic or the tire's worn out, the scale is still tipped in the favor of tubeless for me.
01-02-15, 12:45 PM
#138
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My 2 road bikes.
2006 Trek 5000, lightly modded with different seat post and stem, Ultegra brakes, Chris King bearings and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels. Still has the original 105/Ultegra mixed triple groupset. 19,000 miles and rides like new.
2015 Domane 6 series P1 with Ultegra 6800, Ritchey carbon bar, RXL TLR wheels. The parts are all off a 2014 Domane, which I unfortunately crashed after just 2700 miles, so the frame is newer than the rest of the parts. Many thanks to Trek for covering it via the Trek Care Plus program! Sorry, the new bike is so new I haven't taken a staged shot of it yet.
2006 Trek 5000, lightly modded with different seat post and stem, Ultegra brakes, Chris King bearings and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels. Still has the original 105/Ultegra mixed triple groupset. 19,000 miles and rides like new.
2015 Domane 6 series P1 with Ultegra 6800, Ritchey carbon bar, RXL TLR wheels. The parts are all off a 2014 Domane, which I unfortunately crashed after just 2700 miles, so the frame is newer than the rest of the parts. Many thanks to Trek for covering it via the Trek Care Plus program! Sorry, the new bike is so new I haven't taken a staged shot of it yet.
01-02-15, 02:26 PM
#139
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: N.J.
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Bikes: 2001 Trek 5900, Trek Madone 3.1
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Up North thanks for the info on the wheels. My Trek 5900 is going to need new wheels and the C35's and RXL's are on my short list. Although my bike is 14 years old I love it. It's still. My go to bike. My current wheels are Mavic Kysiriums from '01. They have been great but it's time.
01-02-15, 07:17 PM
#140
Senior Member
Dunno about latex tubes.
What I can say is that the difference in ride quality between clincher and tubeless is noticeable, with the tubeless riding smoother/absorbing more of the road. What sold me was the puncture resistance. Got a puncture once in the front, and the sealant sealed the puncture before I could come to a stop, and I lost a whopping 5 psi. Finished my ride as if nothing had happened, whereas I would have certainly been on the side of the road swapping out a tube had I just been riding traditional tubed clincher. So, for me, the improved ride quality and puncture resistance makes it worth it.
That said, installing a tubeless tire is more difficult than installing a clincher. For one, it was impossible for me to mount the tire without the use of tire levers. Two, it can be messy installing the sealant if you don't have a good sealant syringe. Three, you have to periodically install more sealant as the sealant in the tire dries out. So, a little more difficult to install and more maintenance, but it's not really that bad. Once you get used to it and establish a procedure that works for you, it takes marginally more time to install than a clincher. Since the sealant works so well, you're not really removing/re-installing the tire (like you would after every flat with a tubed tire) unless it's catastrophic or the tire's worn out, the scale is still tipped in the favor of tubeless for me.
What I can say is that the difference in ride quality between clincher and tubeless is noticeable, with the tubeless riding smoother/absorbing more of the road. What sold me was the puncture resistance. Got a puncture once in the front, and the sealant sealed the puncture before I could come to a stop, and I lost a whopping 5 psi. Finished my ride as if nothing had happened, whereas I would have certainly been on the side of the road swapping out a tube had I just been riding traditional tubed clincher. So, for me, the improved ride quality and puncture resistance makes it worth it.
That said, installing a tubeless tire is more difficult than installing a clincher. For one, it was impossible for me to mount the tire without the use of tire levers. Two, it can be messy installing the sealant if you don't have a good sealant syringe. Three, you have to periodically install more sealant as the sealant in the tire dries out. So, a little more difficult to install and more maintenance, but it's not really that bad. Once you get used to it and establish a procedure that works for you, it takes marginally more time to install than a clincher. Since the sealant works so well, you're not really removing/re-installing the tire (like you would after every flat with a tubed tire) unless it's catastrophic or the tire's worn out, the scale is still tipped in the favor of tubeless for me.
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback
01-07-15, 01:52 AM
#141
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Erie, CO
Posts: 210
Bikes: '86 Centurion Elite RS '17 Trek Domane SLR6 Disc '16 Trek Boone 5 '15 Trek Fuel EX 9 '20 Trek Checkpoint SL6
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2015 5.9 w/Ultregra Di2 and Aeolus 5s. Got it in September and have about 1500 miles on it so far. Love it.
01-11-15, 07:45 PM
#143
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Nice Trek bikes.. I just picked up a brand new Madone 3 series frame from my LBS. I had a Shimano 5700 10 speed groupset I bought last year. Seat post, saddle and wheels all came off my R700. Frame was 500.00 bucks and that included the build. I'll have to get a picture on here. It came out nice.
01-16-15, 03:12 PM
#144
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
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Emonda SLR Sram Red
01-16-15, 03:48 PM
#145
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Location: SW ONTARIO
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Bikes: P1 Domane Di2, SLR Emonda Di2, Trek Farley 9 Fatbike
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OldNFastnow!!! Congrats, you going to love it. Mine looks like yours all taken apart and packed for trip south to Arizona week after next. Enjoy, and let's see it once you have all in one piece.
01-16-15, 04:29 PM
#147
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
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It's partially together.
01-16-15, 05:33 PM
#148
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Oh my that's nice!
My Trek rep is pushing me (and I'm considering), selling my Domane frame, buying a Boone Disk to replace the Domane as my Fondo/Gravel/Cross bike and then buying an Emonda SLR frame and building it with my current stash from the Domane. Wishful thinking right now but has some appeal!
My Trek rep is pushing me (and I'm considering), selling my Domane frame, buying a Boone Disk to replace the Domane as my Fondo/Gravel/Cross bike and then buying an Emonda SLR frame and building it with my current stash from the Domane. Wishful thinking right now but has some appeal!
01-16-15, 05:42 PM
#149
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Realized that I hadn't posted a pic since starting this thread (or maybe I have who knows). Recent changes include the swap out of the November RFSC 38's to November Rail 52's. New saddle and bar tape. I also now use Industry 9 I25 tubeless wheels for gravel, winter, and fondo use. This pic has an Ultegra DI2 mid cage since in the winter I often use a cassette with a 32t cog. I had a little "incident" that tore the Dura Ace cage in two, but it's since been repaired and will soon be back on the bike.
01-16-15, 07:42 PM
#150
Flyin' under the radar
