How to "de-index" a Dura Ace bar end shifter
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How to "de-index" a Dura Ace bar end shifter
Anyone know if there's a way to make a Dura Ace (rear der)bar end shifter into a purely friction shifter? If so, how's it done?
I'm tired of having to shift up two gears,and then shift back one, in order to up-shift one gear.
I'm tired of having to shift up two gears,and then shift back one, in order to up-shift one gear.
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Sounds like your RD is out of adjustment- probably your cables stretched/ferrules seated. Try adjusting your barrel on the rd. Like 1/8th of a turn "looser".
Other than that, you loosen the pivot bolt [it's a flat head on those?] and slide the plastic ring to the "F" setting.
Other than that, you loosen the pivot bolt [it's a flat head on those?] and slide the plastic ring to the "F" setting.
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+1 on fixing the issue, but it's stupid easy to deindex those shifters. Raise the metal loop out of the shifter (on the inside, facing the rider) and turn the whole assembly to the other position. There should be an arrow indicating.
I have 7800-series shifters on my Surly, and you don't need a screwdriver--the necessary loop/tool is retained and built into the shifter body. Older models may require additional tools.
I have 7800-series shifters on my Surly, and you don't need a screwdriver--the necessary loop/tool is retained and built into the shifter body. Older models may require additional tools.
#4
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It seems extremely wasteful to gut a DA bar end shifter simply because it's mis-adjusted. I know I'd despise having to friction shift when I'm buried in Z6, and I'd certainly regret my decision to get rid of indexing.
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To answer the question, for bar-end shifters prior to (and including) 7800 there is an obvious loop to switch them to friction. But starting with 7900, the loop has disappeared (makes no sense, no idea why, maybe only for looks on modern TT bikes)....
But honestly, friction shifting 9 or 10 speeds sounds like a good idea in theory but it gets old very quickly if you have ever used indexing... And it sounds like you just need to lubricate the upper pulley and/or adjust the barrel adjuster 1 or 2 turns clockwise...
But honestly, friction shifting 9 or 10 speeds sounds like a good idea in theory but it gets old very quickly if you have ever used indexing... And it sounds like you just need to lubricate the upper pulley and/or adjust the barrel adjuster 1 or 2 turns clockwise...
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The ones I use have a metal loop that you just turn from SIS to friction...it's a 9 speed though. What version do you have, OP?
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I put on my glasses and looked it over and this is what I have. So I flipped out the loop and turned it to friction and it is still clicking like the SIS. I turned it from one to the other several times and it doesn't seem to make any difference, it's still clicking like an indexed shifter at either setting. So I guess I'll pull it apart and see if there's something inside that has to change.
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My problem is that there seems to be no definitive stop at each indexing point. You pull on the lever to up-shift, and it clicks but it always goes a little farther than the click, if you know what I mean. And it will usually shift up two gears. Then I have to push it back down to the indexing stop or risk having it fall down into place when I'm standing or something, which shifts it back down one gear. So each time I upshift it's always up two, back one, instead of just up one.
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My problem is that there seems to be no definitive stop at each indexing point. You pull on the lever to up-shift, and it clicks but it always goes a little farther than the click, if you know what I mean. And it will usually shift up two gears. Then I have to push it back down to the indexing stop or risk having it fall down into place when I'm standing or something, which shifts it back down one gear. So each time I upshift it's always up two, back one, instead of just up one.
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