Adjusting FD yet again
 

So, today, I replaced the FSA Gossamer crankset and MegaEXO BB with a Shimano Ultegra 6800 crankset and BB.

This was my first time taking apart everything on this bike and it was fun. Getting the pedals off and the BB off was a bit hard, but a bit of WD40 and light mallet worked well.

The noises I heard on the small chain wheel with the FSA crankset are non-existent with the Ultegra crankset. The rest of the drivetrain is Ultegra 6600 with a 10sp 12-25 cassette.

Now, there is only one problem, the FD cage rubs the chain on the big chain wheel while on the smallest 2 cogs. Loosening the H stop does nothing. It is definitely a cable tension issue. When I tug the cable gently with my finger, I see the cage move to the correct position.

Since all cables are routed internally on a Cervelo S1, there is no barrel adjuster for the FD. My only choice seems to be to pull the cable to increase tension. Am I missing anything else or do I just go ahead and do it?

Thanks, V

Yes, you have to shift to the small ring, loosen the the cable pinch bolt, pull the cable tight, and tighten the pinch bolt. Also you can insert adjuster barrels into both derailleur cables berween the bars and the frame inlets. Not perfect, but better than nothing. I think Jagwire makes the sdjusters.

You might get lucky just pulling the cable tight with some needle nose pliers, but for fine adjustment insert an inline cable adjuster to the FD cable. Shimano SM-CA70 are very good.

You're correct. Getting the tension on the cable to be precise has been extremely difficult. When I have the tension tuned so FD shifts cleanly, I can't set the stops properly. Guess it'll take some time to get it tuned. The needle nose pliers have done a good job of fraying the end of the cable. There was only 1" extra length past the pinch bolt which made it tricky to get leverage to pull.

My LBS is closed for President's day spring break and this is the first warm and dry weekend here in NJ. Damn the timing. Will just have to fix it this morning.

Here's what I do. Remove the cable from the derailleur. Adjust the low stop screw so the cage just contacts the chain. Yep , you want it to touch. Now put the cable on the derailleur pinch bolt, pull on the cable moderately hard while tightening. Once the pinch bolt is tightened. Back off the low stop screw, the spring tension will pull the derailleur away from the chain and take the slack out of the cable.

Internally routed cables still need an inline adjuster (unless you like the sort of problems you're having). Pick one up from your LBS when you get a chance. Of course, it's going to be really fun to install it now that you have everything routed.

Thanks. I found this detail on the slowtwitch site earlier this morning and have got the FD quite well set now. The frayed ends I'm going to deal with till I go buy a new set of cables and redo everything.

The trick also was, with the FD cable off, after adjusting the L stop, I screwed in the H stop all the way. Then put the cable on, loosened the H stop to get the correct clearance and it's working fine now.

Yes. Next time I replace the cable, I'll add the inline adjuster. This is my first time doing anything more than completely basic on the bike and looks like I'm learning a bit by all the mistakes. Luckily, the BB and crankset install seems to be working fine.

Welcome to the club... learn by doing. :)

+1. When setting up the initial FD cable tension on various bikes, I'm managed to fray the shifter cable ends more than once. Stay with it; patience is key and initial tension is the holy grail for proper FD adjustment. When you get it right, the bike is "self-healing." Best. DB