Looking for a relatively inexpensive steel frame
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Looking for a relatively inexpensive steel frame
I've been riding a Bikesdirect road bike. Pretty happy with it but I prefer steel so I am looking for a frame to move all my components over to. Wanting to keep it around $500. I want something with a more aggressive geo not touring frame. I'm leaning toward Soma Smoothie. I can get one for around $400 and my current carbon fork will fit the frame so I don't need to buy a fork. Also considering Surly Pacer and All City Mr Pink frame set as well as trolling Ebay for any used deals.
Is there anything else out there I am missing in a steel road frame that can be purchased as just a frame or frame set?
Is there anything else out there I am missing in a steel road frame that can be purchased as just a frame or frame set?
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Used Gunnar roadie or sport. (I have a 58 sport up for grabs)
I've been riding a Bikesdirect road bike. Pretty happy with it but I prefer steel so I am looking for a frame to move all my components over to. Wanting to keep it around $500. I want something with a more aggressive geo not touring frame. I'm leaning toward Soma Smoothie. I can get one for around $400 and my current carbon fork will fit the frame so I don't need to buy a fork. Also considering Surly Pacer and All City Mr Pink frame set as well as trolling Ebay for any used deals.
Is there anything else out there I am missing in a steel road frame that can be purchased as just a frame or frame set?
Is there anything else out there I am missing in a steel road frame that can be purchased as just a frame or frame set?
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Thanks for suggestions. I have been keeping an eye on ebay. I'm looking for a 54/55 cm frame. Not much right now in my price range. A couple of Bianchis (Brava and Reparto) and a Bottecchia that looks decent but I don't know much about the brand (Bottecchia)
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Lemond Versailles 55 Frame Fork Ox Steel Frame Carbon Top Tube Seat Tube 2006 | eBay
Might be a little long in the top tube...
Might be a little long in the top tube...
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Lemond Versailles 55 Frame Fork Ox Steel Frame Carbon Top Tube Seat Tube 2006 | eBay
Might be a little long in the top tube...
Might be a little long in the top tube...
#8
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The older ones, yes. Stick with the 2000, 2001. Somthing like this (which may be too big at 58 cm )
Univega Modo Vincere 2000 Columbus Frame Frameset with Fork 58cm Steel Blk Blue | eBay
Sometimes a Modo Volare goes up, then you get a carbon fork too.
Reynolds and Columbus were the two names in steel back then.
Univega Modo Vincere 2000 Columbus Frame Frameset with Fork 58cm Steel Blk Blue | eBay
Sometimes a Modo Volare goes up, then you get a carbon fork too.
Reynolds and Columbus were the two names in steel back then.
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With compact geometry frames we have learned to use the top tube length as the principal sizing dimension, but when stand over height was still occasionally an issue, the seat tube measurement was considered all important by most folks. My point is simply this. When comparing horizontal top tube bikes, it helps one's understanding of the overall size and relative top tube length of one bike compared to another of the same nominal size to know how the nominal size was determined. Say you are looking at 54 cm frames and think that one has an unusually long top tube. Maybe you wouldn't think the top tube was so long if you learned that the 54 cm size was determined on a c-c basis, i.e. relative to stand over height you really have a 55.5 cm bike. That won't make the top tube any shorter! You will just understand whether the apparent differences you see are real. Of course the BB height is also a factor in this discussion.
Also when you are browsing for a frame to buy, understanding the sizing method can help to open up your options. Suppose you are looking for a nominal 54-55 cm c-t frame and see one that is only 53 cm. If you were thinking c-t and the one you find is c-c, it would be right in the middle of your range. At least for the purpose of giving it a harder look to see if the top tube might be right for you after all.
None of this really matters if you are dedicated to letting actual frame fit determine its suitability for you. It doesn't matter what it's called, as long as it fits you and the way you like to ride and doesn't look weird with regard to seat post and stem extension. It's just that in this age of arm chair product comparison via the internet it can be important to understand why two frames with the same nominal size can be so different in other dimensions or two different nominally sized frames can really be the same.
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If you want more aggressive geometry, consider your existing fork and how that affects the new frame.
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I picked up my current NOS fuji roubaix pro frame (2003 - last year it was steel) off of CL for under $200 a few months back. There are some diamonds in the rough, but they can take patience and/or luck to find.
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I didn't go steel for my budget build, but if I had I was checking out specs on Soma Smoothie or Genesis Equilibrium. Both seemed modern and 'sporty'.
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Keep in mind that steel frames with horizontal top tubes "back in the day" were usually sized one of two ways, as center-to-center or center-to-top. The first center refers to the center of the BB shell. The second center or top refers to the position on the top tube that was the other end point for the measurement which was always made along the line of the seat tube. Occasionally some company would size bikes as center-to-top, meaning the top of the seat tube or seat tube lug, depending upon the joining method, not the top of the seat tube itself. Depending upon the method used, bikes with the same nominal size could be about 1.5 cm or more different in size with the larger bike being the one on which the measurement ends lower on the top tube (and of course also the seat tube).
With compact geometry frames we have learned to use the top tube length as the principal sizing dimension, but when stand over height was still occasionally an issue, the seat tube measurement was considered all important by most folks. My point is simply this. When comparing horizontal top tube bikes, it helps one's understanding of the overall size and relative top tube length of one bike compared to another of the same nominal size to know how the nominal size was determined. Say you are looking at 54 cm frames and think that one has an unusually long top tube. Maybe you wouldn't think the top tube was so long if you learned that the 54 cm size was determined on a c-c basis, i.e. relative to stand over height you really have a 55.5 cm bike. That won't make the top tube any shorter! You will just understand whether the apparent differences you see are real. Of course the BB height is also a factor in this discussion.
Also when you are browsing for a frame to buy, understanding the sizing method can help to open up your options. Suppose you are looking for a nominal 54-55 cm c-t frame and see one that is only 53 cm. If you were thinking c-t and the one you find is c-c, it would be right in the middle of your range. At least for the purpose of giving it a harder look to see if the top tube might be right for you after all.
None of this really matters if you are dedicated to letting actual frame fit determine its suitability for you. It doesn't matter what it's called, as long as it fits you and the way you like to ride and doesn't look weird with regard to seat post and stem extension. It's just that in this age of arm chair product comparison via the internet it can be important to understand why two frames with the same nominal size can be so different in other dimensions or two different nominally sized frames can really be the same.
With compact geometry frames we have learned to use the top tube length as the principal sizing dimension, but when stand over height was still occasionally an issue, the seat tube measurement was considered all important by most folks. My point is simply this. When comparing horizontal top tube bikes, it helps one's understanding of the overall size and relative top tube length of one bike compared to another of the same nominal size to know how the nominal size was determined. Say you are looking at 54 cm frames and think that one has an unusually long top tube. Maybe you wouldn't think the top tube was so long if you learned that the 54 cm size was determined on a c-c basis, i.e. relative to stand over height you really have a 55.5 cm bike. That won't make the top tube any shorter! You will just understand whether the apparent differences you see are real. Of course the BB height is also a factor in this discussion.
Also when you are browsing for a frame to buy, understanding the sizing method can help to open up your options. Suppose you are looking for a nominal 54-55 cm c-t frame and see one that is only 53 cm. If you were thinking c-t and the one you find is c-c, it would be right in the middle of your range. At least for the purpose of giving it a harder look to see if the top tube might be right for you after all.
None of this really matters if you are dedicated to letting actual frame fit determine its suitability for you. It doesn't matter what it's called, as long as it fits you and the way you like to ride and doesn't look weird with regard to seat post and stem extension. It's just that in this age of arm chair product comparison via the internet it can be important to understand why two frames with the same nominal size can be so different in other dimensions or two different nominally sized frames can really be the same.
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I didn't go steel for my budget build, but if I had I was checking out specs on Soma Smoothie or Genesis Equilibrium. Both seemed modern and 'sporty'.
Thanks. The Smoothie is the modern frame I have been considering. The thing that turns me off is that Soma says (and owners on the internet seem to agree) that the bottom bracket and head tube have to be faced and chased. Since I don't have the tools that adds maybe $100 cost for LBS to do it. So now I'm leaning to used frame off ebay since it should be build ready
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I have a Brava in the garage that I'm about to strip the parts off and transfer to another frame I just picked up off the Bay, I'd happily let it go for the $100 or so I paid for it. Pretty sure it's the 2000 model year, so quill stem and English bb threads if that makes a difference to you.
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I buy a ton of stuff online and do most of my own work; but this would probably be a good case for ordering a frame from a local LBS if they could get the Smoothie for you. I would think chasing and facing would be included or done for a nominal cost with frame purchase from any halfway decent shop, especially if you had them do a BB/Headset install. If you really like Smoothie that is, if not, never mind.
Thanks. The Smoothie is the modern frame I have been considering. The thing that turns me off is that Soma says (and owners on the internet seem to agree) that the bottom bracket and head tube have to be faced and chased. Since I don't have the tools that adds maybe $100 cost for LBS to do it. So now I'm leaning to used frame off ebay since it should be build ready
Last edited by MagicHour; 04-25-14 at 11:30 AM.
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I buy a ton of stuff online and do most of my own work; but this would probably be a good case for ordering a frame from a local LBS if they could get the Smoothie for you. I would think chasing and facing would be included or done for a nominal cost with frame purchase from any halfway decent shop, especially if you had them do a BB/Headset install. If you really like Smoothie that is, if not, never mind.
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That was actually on my shortlist but a little more then I want to spend. I also didn't investigate enough to see that bb spec. I am definitely going to transfer my SRAM Apex group from my current bike so it looks like that is not possible on the Mr Pink
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Thanks. The Smoothie is the modern frame I have been considering. The thing that turns me off is that Soma says (and owners on the internet seem to agree) that the bottom bracket and head tube have to be faced and chased. Since I don't have the tools that adds maybe $100 cost for LBS to do it. So now I'm leaning to used frame off ebay since it should be build ready
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#21
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Even their about info is ass. "Our goal is to make a significant contribution to the equipment and culture of urban cycling. This is not a cash in, this is not a fad, this is our life, our love, our community and our dream."
- Ugh, doesn't that make you want to throw up? Doesn't that just bring up the image of a some hipster college loser pissing off drivers and getting run over? I do.
Get the SOMA Smoothie over All City.
Last edited by zymphad; 04-25-14 at 10:54 PM.
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Save Up to 60% Off Steel Road Bikes - Motobecane Super Mirage
Save Up To 60% Off Pro Level Steel Road Bikes | Commuting | Commuter Bikes | Motobecane Gran Premio PRO
Save Up To 60% Off Pro Level Steel Road Bikes | Commuting | Commuter Bikes | Motobecane Gran Premio PRO
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Inexpensive steel frame? Sounds like you need to spend some time on CraigsList. I just picked up a Bianchi frame for $80 off of CL.
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I wonder if one of those frames are available on bikeisland?
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'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
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Good info. Soma's site recommends it and I guess they include paperwork with the frame that also says to do it. Reading different forum posts and reviews I would say about 75% of the people said they had to do it and 25% did not so you might have been lucky. Either way, if I go with that frame I will bring it to a LBS to properly install the headset since I don't have a press and I'll have them do any prep work that is needed