tomato coupe

Total nonsense.

genejockey 

Why do that, when you could get the Ultimate, which has a lower stack height and longer reach? Seems rather silly.

timtak

I don’t suppose I could afford either but I am guessing the Ultimate is even more expensive than the Endurace (c. 3500USD it seems).

genejockey 

Also, the thing about shallow drop bars is that it they allow you do get more aerodynamic than deep drop bars, because you can ride with a level back and level forearms, vs a level back and vertical forearms on deep drop bars. See the article that I posted above, which others posted to you earlier, where people actually tested different positions rather than hypothesizing.

genejockey 

Nope. Endurace CF SL 8 Disc and Ultimate CF SL 8 Disc are the same price - $3K.

timtak

If I get rich I may buy one. While frame aerodynamics make only a few percent of difference, I bet it feels great to ride. And, according a page that was showing Nairoman's Ultimate, "Professional road racers tend to select frames 1 to 2 sizes smaller than the recommended size by the manufacturer," So I would probably get an S looking like this

Sweet

My Look KG 386 is a bit aero (semi-internally routed cables, rear wheel cut out, shaped tubes -- but perhaps not wind-tunnel tested) but my Trek is not. I would like to try a full-aero road bike but embedded cables, especially through even the stem and head tube, may make for more fiddly maintenance so I think I would need to get generally richer, so that I could employ bike mechanics before I splash out.

I remember the article from before and it is very true. At the same time, I find level forearms in the drops or holding the hooks to be tiring. It seems to me that the trend is towards walkie-talkie-connected, super-coordinated pace-lines where the pole rider gets into the mega-aero, level-forearmed, hook position for 10-12.5% of the time (assuming a 8 to 10 person team). Super.

But I spend zero time in a pace line, so my sphinx with level forearms, or drops at 45% forearm, or hooks at similar, are okay for me. Forearms are important but torso angle is imho far more important, (since torsos have far more area than forearms) so I want the bike that lets me ride level torso (in a variety of more or less aero forearm positions) for as long as possible.

Tim

genejockey 

I have determined how low I can go in terms of bar drop and it's about 10 cm. I had a bike with an 11 cm drop, and it was okay for 20-30 mile rides, but after a 60 mile ride - even though I wasn't uncomfortable on the ride itself, I was getting lower back twinges for days. So, as in inflexible old guy who has to roll his pelvis rather than bending forward, I tend to go larger. My Canyon is a Large, with 12.5mm of spacers, and that allows me to get my back basically level in either aero hoods or drops, and still pedal effectively. It took time and practice to be able to do aero hoods for any distance, but now I can hold the position for several miles at a stretch. I tend to switch back and forth between that and drops on several long, straight-ish segments of my usual rides which are level or slightly downhill, where I'm going >25 mph. But I can't do the whole ride like that, and honestly, there's not much point to doing so, given that at slower speeds aerodynamic drag is less of a factor, so mostly I ride on the hoods.

timtak

Sounds like me.I think if I were to be followed by a drone the footage would show that I am aero for a similar amount of time.

The goofy glasses, stem, aero position are what I aim for and I want to make sure that they are facilitated so that I can exert myself, or conversely that I am not encouraging myself to relax while exercising. As I have often said, I compare my bike to my trousers. Thin jeans and baggy slacks both, encourage me to fit them.

At the same time I have left my steerer tubes uncut because I anticipate that I will need a more relaxed ride as I get older.

It has been fun though.

MikeWMass

There are bifocal contact lenses, and there is monovision (which I have) where one eye is near prescription and the other is distance.
Some people have trouble adapting to the latter, but I love it.

Lombard

I can't imagine what that does to your depth perception if only one eye can see distant.

Maelochs

Both eyes can still see .... just one can focus better at greater distances and the other, closer. it is not like there is some range at which one eye shuts down and the other takes over.

Lombard

But if you are looking at a distant object, only one eye will see that object clearly while it will be blurred for the other eye, no?

tomato coupe

It doesn't matter if one or both eyes are out of focus, you can still judge distance to objects you can see.

MikeWMass

Exactly
I guess if your vision was so bad in the near eye it might be a problem; this might be why some people don't tolerate monovision, but for me it is seamless.
Your brain is pretty good at figuring things out!

Maelochs

I see you have not met my brain ........