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Just bought a torque wrench

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Just bought a torque wrench

Old 06-12-14, 10:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RPK79 View Post
I cracked a carbon seat post by being too hamfisted.
ftfy
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Old 06-12-14, 10:06 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by coasting View Post
i have never used a torque wrench and yet here i am! Bike hasn't asploded from under me yet.

htfu
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Old 06-12-14, 10:10 AM
  #28  
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Torque the hell out of everything that wrench fits...bike related or not. You paid for it, get some use out of it!
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Old 06-12-14, 10:11 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RPK79 View Post
I cracked a carbon seat post by being too cheap to buy a torque wrench.
Paradoxically I'm a giant chicken**** who likes to go fast. That and knowing what I've caught mechanically speaking on aircraft which could have become a disaster next flight, is the fuel for my paranoia. So... Everything is in spec'.

I put a a bunch of crabon on my bike, and that is another good reason to have a T-wrench, I'd hate to bust my seatpost...Ouch $$$
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Old 06-12-14, 10:12 AM
  #30  
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OP, don't forget to unload the wrench between uses.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:18 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by UnfilteredDregs View Post
OP, don't forget to unload the wrench between uses.
He doesn't have to worry about that. It's the beam version.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:25 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by aubiecat View Post
He doesn't have to worry about that. It's the beam version.


That's a lightweight wrench. Tops out at 8nm.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:32 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pdedes View Post
so all those torque specs are dry. if you are lubricating the threads, you require 25-30% less than specified.
THIS. Add that wet lock-tite is also to be considered a wet torque. 20% over on some stuff is 10% past stripped or broken.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:41 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pdedes View Post
so all those torque specs are dry. if you are lubricating the threads, you require 25-30% less than specified.
Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
THIS. Add that wet lock-tite is also to be considered a wet torque. 20% over on some stuff is 10% past stripped or broken.

This goes back to reading the instructions. Every manual I have for every part specifies what lube, if any, therefore the torque spec' incorporates that into context.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:51 AM
  #35  
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And yet many miss the details or just did not know in the first place. I have seen Ft/lb to xx conversion errors that ended up with someone at 2X actual value and the like or "I need the dry value as i did not add lube to this used bolt that is going into this greasy hole." Read the instructions for the bike part, the T wrench and general use.
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Old 06-12-14, 10:56 AM
  #36  
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Have fun!
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Torque Specifications and Concepts
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Old 06-12-14, 11:01 AM
  #37  
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I have this one:

https://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/st...ssociationsCmd

I got it for $59.99 and free shipping promotion for Nashbar products.
I use it for stem and seatpost clamp, mainly.
It's great quality and much cheaper than a Park Tools.

S
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Old 06-12-14, 01:04 PM
  #38  
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Torque wrenches are pointless. You wasted your money.
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Old 06-12-14, 01:32 PM
  #39  
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... and all this torque wrench crap is why I am only lukewarm to the idea of a carbon bike... If I have to buy special measuring equipment and be meticulously careful to not break/crack/destroy my super expensive seat post/bars/frame/etc. then I'm no longer having fun.

With my alum. bike, I tighten stuff until it's good and tight and the stuff doesn't move. Done. I haven't over (or under) tightened anything yet -- no asplosions.

hmm. Maybe I should take it to the pet peeves thread. Or maybe I should eat something...
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Old 06-13-14, 04:22 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by goenrdoug View Post
... and all this torque wrench crap is why I am only lukewarm to the idea of a carbon bike... If I have to buy special measuring equipment and be meticulously careful to not break/crack/destroy my super expensive seat post/bars/frame/etc. then I'm no longer having fun.

With my alum. bike, I tighten stuff until it's good and tight and the stuff doesn't move. Done. I haven't over (or under) tightened anything yet -- no asplosions.

hmm. Maybe I should take it to the pet peeves thread. Or maybe I should eat something...
Aluminum is easy to crush.
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Old 06-13-14, 04:59 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RPK79 View Post
I cracked a carbon seat post by being too cheap to buy a torque wrench.
no. by being too ham fisted.
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Old 06-13-14, 05:41 AM
  #42  
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This falls into the category of "If you have a hammer everything looks like a nail." I made the mistake of buying a Park digital scale. OMG!
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Old 06-13-14, 06:45 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bruce19 View Post
This falls into the category of "If you have a hammer everything looks like a nail." I made the mistake of buying a Park digital scale. OMG!
You should stop worrying about weight and use that scale to sell crack instead.
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Old 06-13-14, 06:52 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Jiggle View Post
Torque wrenches are pointless. You wasted your money.
Wut?
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Old 06-13-14, 06:56 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by danmc View Post
You should stop worrying about weight and use that scale to sell crack instead.
Bike parts aren't crack?
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Old 06-13-14, 08:30 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by bruce19 View Post
Bike parts aren't crack?
Crack is cheaper and less addictive.
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Old 06-13-14, 08:37 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by coasting View Post
no. by being too ham fisted.
Yup.
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Old 06-13-14, 04:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by aubiecat View Post
Wut?
Torque to yield where it is possible; torque to tightness on applications with gaskets or on fragile materials like these carbon bits. Use loctite (conservatively) on fragile materials where vibration threatens tightness. All that can easily be done by feel. Additionally, actual clamping force is only loosely correlated to what the number shows on your torque wrench. The goal is to torque to yield and no farther. Yield can be easily felt.
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Old 06-13-14, 04:36 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jiggle View Post
Torque to yield where it is possible; torque to tightness on applications with gaskets or on fragile materials like these carbon bits. Use loctite (conservatively) on fragile materials where vibration threatens tightness. All that can easily be done by feel. Additionally, actual clamping force is only loosely correlated to what the number shows on your torque wrench. The goal is to torque to yield and no farther. Yield can be easily felt.
Never mind that a torque spec on, for example, a seat post clamp or stem can't possibly be calibrated with any precision for the wide variety of posts and bars which they may need to hold.
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Old 06-13-14, 07:17 PM
  #50  
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That is correct; they cannot. Not even with your torque wrench.
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