I build all my own wheels. I had a good wheel builder for a while, but he killed himself, not over my wheels I hope. It's not hard, just time consuming for an amateur. My last build was a KinLin XC-279 rim with Sapim CX-ray spokes, all from BikeHubStore. They sell a few wheel-building tools which are totally worth buying. Proper tools is how the pros do it so fast. They also sell a device to keep a bladed spoke straight when building. Even with round spokes, one should keep them straight. A small piece of tape on one side of each round spoke prevents windup. One simply rotates the nipple back after winding up the spoke. No pliers ever, please! I thought building with bladed spokes no harder than building with round.

I think it's silly to build a wheel without having a Park TM-1 tensiometer. Maybe the pros can get it right by sound, but I've also seen pro builds that were way off. Proper and even tension is the secret to building a wheel that never gives a problem or breaks a spoke. I've queried the rim manufacturer for tension specs when I was uncertain.

How easy is it to replace a tire on the side of the road though when you have to glue it on? Time to watch some youtube videos I suppose...

Anyway, back to the original topic. I still don't know what I'm going to do for wheels. I'm horribly indecisive.

You bring a spare that has a layer of glue already on it. Peel off the old, put on the spare. Then go easy on the corners until you get home and glue on a new tire.

Thanks for the advice. As far as tools go I have a truing stand spoke nipple wrench. I'll need a dish tool and tensiometer should I decide to build them myself. Oh, and a cold beer of course. Anything else?

Good to know.

In fact, it can be faster than replacing a tube in a clincher. I might have even done it without glue residue on the tire, though I can't say for sure. In fact, with glue residue on my rims, I often rode tires that were not glued. I'm not recommending that; I'm just saying that I survived. I haven't rolled a tire yet.

I recently got back onto tubulars after 30 years. I replaced the rear tire with a spare so that my spare has glue. This also serves to rotate my tires for even wear. And it serves to stretch the tire the required amount. I carry the spare when riding the streets.

If you're going to take a long ride, you might consider carrying two spares. You might even consider carrying a repair kit. I never repaired a tubular on the roadside, but I've seen it done. You need a pump, patches, glue, a seam ripper, a needle, and some dental floss. Waxed dental floss is the best thread, as it is unbreakable. It's all I ever used.

With all of that said, there aren't many reasons to ride tubulars. I have them only on my track racing bike.

Don't need a truing stand or a dishing tool. I use a bike for a truing stand and flip the wheel to get exact dish. If your spoke lengths are correct, you'll be very close to the correct dish when you first put the wheel in a stand or bike. A good nipple wrench is critical. I like the 360° kind with a slot for the spoke. The biggest problem is the simple one of just getting the nipples onto the ends of the spokes without losing them inside the wheel. I use ordinary anti-seize for spoke prep.

Pre-builts are often badly built, especially if they're bought online.

That simplifies things. Thanks for tips. I think I may give this a try. The suggestion that I can always have someone help fix any mess ups really got me thinking. I have a really good LBS and I've seen a couple of the guys there building up wheels for customers. If all else fails, I'll pay them a visit.

This is not the first time I've heard that. The flip side of that is that I've heard of lots of folks having great luck with them.

My neighbor and good riding partner purchased some prebuilt wheels last year and has horrible luck with them. I was very curious to see his experience with these particular wheels. In the end, I have not been impressed. Yet another reason I have considered building my own.

Well, I pulled the trigger on the H Plus Son build kit from BHS. I could have saved a few bucks here or there by ordering piecemeal from different places, but decided it simply wasn't worth the few dollars vs the hassle. I really like the look of those rims. I think they will look really good on my bike. I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes. If I get stuck and need advice, you'll hear from me as well.

A spoke with a nipple threaded on the end, works well to get the nipple into the hole when being laced up.

Good tip, thanks.

be sure to use spoke prep. The NDS spokes will not be very highly tensioned when building with those hubs, so keep a close eye on them to make sure they are not becoming loose while riding.

Good luck with your build.

If you want to save some money on the tension meter (those are really expensive) - if you have a smartphone, there are apps that allow you to measure spoke tension based on sound.

Interesting, good to know.

Many of us do not have tensionmeters, and wheels were built before they existed, so you can get by without one. If this is a one time thing, maybe you can borrow/rent one rather than spend the cash.

I've never used a tensiometer. I'm not saying they don't help, but you can get by without one.

I have a really good relationship with the guys at the LBS and they have one. Pastries, coffee, or beer may help in this case.

A few mentions of spoke prep on here. Any recommendations? I saw one recommendation of good old anti seize, of which I have plenty. Any others?

I use a drop of linseed oil on each spoke thread.

I have no desire to build my own. I'm fairly handy, but wheels seem pretty complicated. I just ordered some carbon clinchers from Boyd, I can't wait for them to arrive.

I use Wheelsmith SpokePrep.


I also second this...

I found it easier than I anticipated, but I had a desire to try it. That makes a big difference in what one is willing to do.

I would have given you lessons for the low price of airfare.