Stem Length and Ergo Handlebars
 

I just got professionally fitted to my new bike, and was told that I need a 115mm stem. I want to order my own parts but I'm having trouble finding my half size. I'm noticing that the threadless stems have various angles, does that mean I could possibly find an angled 120mm that fits closer to a 115? My options are very limited as it is.

I also have to replace the handlebars. I'm eyeing this ergo set, does anyone have experience with them? I like the idea of those bumps in the drops, but I'm concerned that they may negatively affect handling and reaching the brake levers.

Ritchey Design Pro Biomax

I've had similar bars. Doesn't affect handling at all but the bars you're looking at have kind of a long reach. You should look at compact bars like these, especially if you have smaller hands:

Ritchey Comp Logic II Road Handlebar - Drop/Road Handlebars

We can't really tell how stretched out you are with the 115mm stem, so it's difficult to recommend a bar, did your fitter specify the reach of the bars ?

It would be safer to go with a compact bar with a shallow drop (120 - 125mm ) and short reach (70-80mm). There are a lot of brands with this design formula.

Have never been a fan of the ergo style, it difficult to describe but for me the is less support for the whole hand, while in the drops and operating the levers.
Maybe this video explains it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EWM0KTdCOY

IME i've found that ergo bars aren't

Thanks for the link, that explains the difference really well. My only question is concerning his point about the shallow reach allowing him to run a longer stem. Is that because the top angle bending down into the hoods is more obtuse than the standard, so the bars are closer at those bending points?

My fitter didn't specify a reach. These are what I have now-

Carbon Specialized bars, 143mm drop x 74mm reach

110mm stem (I had 90 before and this feels SO much better and less twitchy, she didn't have 115 in stock)

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=391205

Is there any way to tell from my posture/hand size if I need compact? I don't think these bars are shallow drop, and I don't feel overextended at all when I brake or ride the hoods. I like the hoods for their hand position comfort, but I like the drops because my back feels better stretched out more. My Fuji has shallow drops, and I find that after ~15 minutes in the drops, my hands start to ache. I think it's because I'm trying to push my hands down more than the bars will allow.

With the shorter reach and shallow drop , it just brings the bars closer to the rider if the stem length stays the same, so if he wants to maintain the same position of the shifters relative to his body, he would just use a longer stem to offset the shorter reach/ position from using the compact bars.


Looking at your with you hands in the drops, I don't think you need a shallow drop, but you might like the more constant radius shape of a compact bar, there are many with a 130mm drop if your comfortable with you current position.

I notice that your bars appear to be rotated upwards or have been cut short, I suspect this it to give a flat transition from the bars to the hoods. in this position it is not using the full 140mm drop depth, so if you change to a 130mm drop compact bar , you will be in a similar position.

The compact shape would give you more hand positions towards the end of the bars, which are useful if for example you sprint out of the saddle while in the drops, the horizontal sections don't create as much of a wrist bend as you have now with your current bars in their current position
You can see it in this photo, the constant radius shape and how they have positioned the bars more rotated back towards the head tube, so the shape still allows the flatter transition to the hoods, but also more relaxed wrist positions.

Any of the pieces on this bike can be purchased, but the gold and the rainbow stripe can only be earned. Photos | Cyclingnews.com

This might be useful for the stem part:

http://http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

I doubt that a 5mm difference would be significant, though.

Are you comfortable with the amount of drop your current bar has? It doesn't look like you need less drop, but only you can tell how it feels. You defintitely need a more comfortable drop shape, one where the drops are closer to paralel with the ramps behind the hoods. Whether the Ritchey bar is the one that will feel better, no way to tell before you try it. I would definitely not order without trying as many different handlebar shapes as you can get your hands on. You don't even need to fully mount them on your bike, you just need to feel the shape and angle of the drops

Regarding stem reach, 115mm stems are indeed hard to find, but 5mm of reach doesn't really make that much of a difference anyway. If I were you, I would place a ruler or a straight stick across the hoods, pressed against the bump, and measure from the center of the fork steerer to the leading edge of the ruler/stick. Then, once you've found a handlebar that fits you, you can repeat the measurement, compare the two results, and adjust the stem length accordingly.

Nice bike!

I've used a handlebar almost exactly the same as that Ritchey (Salsa Poco) and it was HORRIBLE. Those ergo bumps put my hands right to sleep. I like the compact shape quite a bit, personally - using an FSA K-force compact bar. Handlebars are so particular, and so important to how your bike feels, it's probably worth shopping for them in person so you can hold them. Looking at your picture, I wouldn't go with a shorter reach to the hoods, but you can get away with a shallower drop unless you are racing.

You can use this calculator
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
to figure out another way to get your bar/stem connection in the same point in space from where your fitter put it, using the spacer and stem length from your fitter and trying some other stem lengths, angles and heights to get it close.

Why you would get a professional fit and then possible undo everything by going the route that you are going?


A fit a specific #s based thing, by changing the handlebar/handlebar reach you are changing your position on the bike.

Speak to/email the fitter and tell him what you are looking to buy and have him check the #s . You paid good money for your fitting, they usually give you a follow visit anyway..use it my good woman

She actually hired me part time on Saturdays to help at the shop (which I’m super stoked about :D), so I’ll see her pretty often. I did speak with her about specific measurements I should look for with the bars, but she only gave me a width and said the rest is more about personal preference rather than measurement.

You make a good point, I would be in the drops more often if they didn’t bend my wrists so much like this set does. You’re right about why they’re tilted up, I like to be stretched forward but find that when the hoods are down more, it makes my wrists bend forward to reach the brakes. Very uncomfortable for rides over 30mi. That compact you linked looks like a pretty good compromise! Bookmarked :D

Would that be like what @kleng was suggesting with the compact shape? I’m comfortable with the reach, but I’m not okay with the angle of my wrists. I could drop even further with no discomfort if the shape of the bars allowed my arms to relax.

I can use or restock this 110mm stem at the shop so I think it would be wisest to find the bars I like and then experiment with a longer stem.

Thanks! I just got it a few weeks ago :) That’s exactly what I was worried about for the ergo bars, looks like they would press into the nerves of your hand. Is there an advantage to shallow drops for someone who has a long reach? I don’t race and have no desire to, but I like the option to tuck into the drops for descents and strong headwinds.

I started with ergo bars, gave them a chance and decided they weren't for me. I like a flat transition from the tops to the hoods with the combination of easily accessible drops, although I'm probably a 80/20 hoods to drops rider. Somebody here suggested the FSA Omega compact and I really like it. I did lengthen the stem by I think 1.5cm to make up for the reach but those bars are great.

Why don't you try rotating your bars down a tiny bit, so that the transition to the hoods is more horizontal, that is where the tops of the bars and the hoods are in the same plane. This may make it more comfortable for you, in this photo you can see the flatter transition to the hoods and you can also see resulting position of the drops sections of the compact bar shape. If you want to change bars, I think the compacts will offer you more hand positions in the drops than your current bars and still give the flat transition required at the hoods.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps4eed3779.jpg

The bars shown in the photo are the FSA compact shape found in the K-Force (carbon) and Energy models (AL), other models to consider are the 3T Ergonova Pro (AL) and the Team or Ltd carbon versions. I would probably just go for the cheaper aluminium models as they are stiffer.

ENERGY COMPACT HANDLEBAR

ERGONOVA PRO - Dropbar - 3T Cycling Road

watch out for the bar width measurement on these models, they are wider at the ends of the bars as opposed to the hoods, so for these manufacturers a "42" cm bar is 40cm at the hoods and 42cm at the end of the drops (measured center to center).

or as a previous poster has mentioned , get your fitter to recommend some bars.

Yes, compact bars have a good shape, but unfortunately for someone like you, they don't really drop that much. You might find yourself wanting to drop the whole bar lower, but then the hoods might be too low - or they might feel just fine. You would need to try it out.

Another bar shape that might work really well for you is 3T Tornova. For example (obviously, it would be rotated back when installed on a bicycle):

http://velonews.competitor.com/files...39-633x421.jpg