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Want another frame size thread?? Ok, here goes..........

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Want another frame size thread?? Ok, here goes..........

Old 07-22-14, 01:21 PM
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Want another frame size thread?? Ok, here goes..........

So, I've got my bike pretty much set up but I've yet to get a bike fit. (awaiting the LBS's sizing guy to get back to set up appointment). I still have the option to exchange sizes but every other day I'm back & forth in my head. Here's what I've got from competitive cyclist & I'll put some remarks below.........


The Eddy Fit (cm)
Seat Tube Range cc: 58.8 - 59.3 cm
Seat Tube Range ct: 60.6 - 61.1 cm
Top Tube Length: 57.9 - 58.3 cm
Stem Length: 11.1 - 11.7 cm
BBSaddle Position: 81 - 83 cm
Saddle Handlebar: 58.4 - 59 cm
Saddle Setback: 7 - 7.4 cm

The Competitive Fit (cm)
Seat Tube Range cc: 57.6 - 58.1 cm
Seat Tube Range ct: 59.4 - 59.9 cm
Top Tube Length: 57.9 - 58.3 cm
Stem Length: 12.2 - 12.8 cm
BBSaddle Position: 81.8 - 83.8 cm
Saddle Handlebar: 57.6 - 58.2 cm
Saddle Setback: 5.8 - 6.2 cm

The French Fit (cm)
Seat Tube Range cc: 60.5 - 61 cm
Seat Tube Range ct: 62.3 - 62.8 cm
Top Tube Length: 59.1 - 59.5 cm
Stem Length: 11.3 - 11.9 cm
BBSaddle Position: 79.3 - 81.3 cm
Saddle Handlebar: 60.1 - 60.7 cm
Saddle Setback: 6.5 - 6.9 cm

Your Measurments
Inseam: 35
Trunk: 28
Forearm: 14.5
Arm: 27
Thigh: 25
Lower Leg: 23.5
Sternal Notch: 60.5
Total Body Height: 74

I'm currently on a 60cm. I like that the seat and bars are close but I *did* have to put a shorter stem on and I don't have my saddle perfectly dialed in so it might need to go back from where I am now come fit time.

I rode both a 58cm and 60cm back & forth and can't even remember exactly what I felt but 2 folks at the shop thought I should be on the 60 and 2 others thought I should be on the 58. (Mainly because the 58 wouldn't require a shorter stem.)

I know this is e-fit/internet armchair quarterbacking but would you lean more one way than the other based on above info???

TIA
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Old 07-22-14, 03:26 PM
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It is good that you got coherent info from CC's program. At 6'3", it told me I was cromagnon, and suggested knuckle dragging over cycling.

For me, I am always wrestling the same dilemma: 58 or 60. I default to 58's because I am long torsoed and long armed, and short legged. So I need saddle to bar drop. Without 4" of drop, I feel like I am sitting bolt upright.

So my suggestion is to figure out how your proportions fall for your height, and scale down if short legged, and up if long legged.
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Old 07-22-14, 03:41 PM
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If you look at the attached graph of SuperSix Evo frame sizing, you'll see that it's kind of hard to put me right in the middle (where I probably need to be......Can a brother get a 59???)

Eddy fit & French fit are quite a bit apart but also neither would fit into almost anybody's frame sizing unless you got real fancy w/ seat posts, stems & rises.

My only fear is probably the drop. I wouldn't want to drop too far down which is why I like just the couple/few inches drop I have right now.

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Old 07-22-14, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RollCNY
It is good that you got coherent info from CC's program. At 6'3", it told me I was cromagnon, and suggested knuckle dragging over cycling.

For me, I am always wrestling the same dilemma: 58 or 60. I default to 58's because I am long torsoed and long armed, and short legged. So I need saddle to bar drop. Without 4" of drop, I feel like I am sitting bolt upright.

So my suggestion is to figure out how your proportions fall for your height, and scale down if short legged, and up if long legged.
Roll, I won't say you have it backwards, but isn't there a parallel approach that favors reach over drop? Yes, you can stretch down with drop if you ride like a modern pro, but as an amateur with a long torso and arms, isn't reach an alternative way to do it? Isn't that why the compact geometry is so effective, it allows you to move to a bigger size frame to accommodate your reach even though you have short legs. So you can size up without busting your 'nads. I understand what you are saying about not wanting to be too upright, but doesn't forward reach also work to lower and flatten your back, not exactly like drop does, but still effectively and more comfortably for most enthusiasts.
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Old 07-22-14, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Roll, I won't say you have it backwards, but isn't there a parallel approach that favors reach over drop? Yes, you can stretch down with drop if you ride like a modern pro, but as an amateur with a long torso and arms, isn't reach an alternative way to do it? Isn't that why the compact geometry is so effective, it allows you to move to a bigger size frame to accommodate your reach even though you have short legs. So you can size up without busting your 'nads. I understand what you are saying about not wanting to be too upright, but doesn't forward reach also work to lower and flatten your back, not exactly like drop does, but still effectively and more comfortably for most enthusiasts.
No. Look at the frame size chart he so nicely posted. In smaller sizes, reach grows faster than stack, so sizing up on that end of the scale lengthens you, to your point. On larger sizes, stack grows faster than reach, so sizing up actually grows height excessively for less reach growth, and you end up more upright. You sit on the bike, rather than in the bike.

I can't make a sincere recommendation to the OP because I discarded my numbers, so I can't compare me to him and make a valid suggestion. CC's calculator told me I needed a 690 top tube and a 160 stem. I size down every time, but it is based on my reach needs. To give an idea of my proportions, if I put my chest against the saddle, the center of my palms reach both axle nuts. I am the American Condor of cyclists.
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Old 07-22-14, 05:38 PM
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Oh, and compact geometry stinks for me. As does "endurance" geometry.
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Old 07-22-14, 05:45 PM
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OP, if your fear is too much drop, get the 60 cm. The reach is essentially identical on the two. A 60cm will probably come stock with a 130 stem, so you can shorten to 120 or 110 without really impacting steering. Deda even makes a 115 if needed. Between flipping a stem down on the 60 vs up on a 58, you would have overlap in fit. The 60 could go higher, the 58 lower. You aren't seeking lower.
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Old 07-22-14, 05:57 PM
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it's all about stack and reach for me on a frame.

so easy

i might look at seat tube angle too
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Old 07-22-14, 06:41 PM
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bt,

Funny you say that. I looked at stack & reach, too. The 60cm Cannondale is almost like a 58cm Tarmac. (interesting to me)

FWIW, I rode a 58 & 60 today at a different LBS today during lunch & definitely felt a bit squished on the 58. I dunno how to explain it cuz reach was ok, (actually funny I couldn't tell much difference in reach) but the whole bike just felt squished to me.

Another funny thing I'd never thought about before (and granted, I didn't have my clipless on the thing) but on the 58, I accidentally hit the toe of my foot on the tire when I turned to get off the sidewalk on the test ride. I didn't even think about my size 13 feet but that definitely caught me off guard. I definitely had to be sure I was no further than the balls of my feet. (no worries on the 60)

Last thing I noticed was that things felt a bit sketchy out of the saddle on the 58. That, too, was weird, but the bike felt unstable or maybe I could even call it "behind me" (?) if that makes any sense. Whereas the 60 felt stable & I felt like I could toss the bike around without worrying about stability. (I dunno if that makes any sense)

I just got the feeling that I wouldn't enjoy the 58 if I had to ride it for long. At least not without some serious adjustments that might leave me even more uncomfortable than stock.

(shrug)
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Old 07-23-14, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by loimpact
bt,

Funny you say that. I looked at stack & reach, too. The 60cm Cannondale is almost like a 58cm Tarmac. (interesting to me)

FWIW, I rode a 58 & 60 today at a different LBS today during lunch & definitely felt a bit squished on the 58. I dunno how to explain it cuz reach was ok, (actually funny I couldn't tell much difference in reach) but the whole bike just felt squished to me.

Another funny thing I'd never thought about before (and granted, I didn't have my clipless on the thing) but on the 58, I accidentally hit the toe of my foot on the tire when I turned to get off the sidewalk on the test ride. I didn't even think about my size 13 feet but that definitely caught me off guard. I definitely had to be sure I was no further than the balls of my feet. (no worries on the 60)

Last thing I noticed was that things felt a bit sketchy out of the saddle on the 58. That, too, was weird, but the bike felt unstable or maybe I could even call it "behind me" (?) if that makes any sense. Whereas the 60 felt stable & I felt like I could toss the bike around without worrying about stability. (I dunno if that makes any sense)

I just got the feeling that I wouldn't enjoy the 58 if I had to ride it for long. At least not without some serious adjustments that might leave me even more uncomfortable than stock.

(shrug)
Sounds like you already know which size you should go for.
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Old 07-23-14, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RollCNY
To give an idea of my proportions, if I put my chest against the saddle, the center of my palms reach both axle nuts. I am the American Condor of cyclists.
I read that and the first thought that came to mind was basketball "He's got incredible wingspan". lol! Probably not an advantage for cycling, unless you need to tighten a QR while riding.
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Old 07-23-14, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by gsa103
I read that and the first thought that came to mind was basketball "He's got incredible wingspan". lol! Probably not an advantage for cycling, unless you need to tighten a QR while riding.
There was a thread awhile back about how best to tighten a rear wheel skewer to make sure the wheel was seated. I said put your chest on the saddle to apply pressure, and tighten. I had 10 responses telling me my saddle was too low, and that you shouldn't be able to reach it. Trust me, American Condor.
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