u-ray

I would prefer to build my own bicycle but I am slowly realising this would be a difficult task. I am cool with buying used parts. I want to spend around 600 dollars for a bike and realise that I could probablly do this with the money I have. I know that I will want to build a bike as knowing your bike in and out is part of cycling. I need to know what all parts do I need? Is there a certain book somebody can recommend that will help me do this.

I want to build one because I know how much more computers and car work can cost if you dont do it yourself. Im sure this also holds true with cycling.

I live in CO and just moved closer to the Foot Hills. Staring at those long concrete tracks that go up and down some of the hills here have made me yearn for biking. I tried using my MTB but it just was not happening. Then I saw the guys and gals and even some older gentlemen go buy on road bikes and now yes now I want a road bike.



I am 6'1 and dont even know what CM bike size I should get 50,52,56,58?

I also need to get some ideas on which type of frame I should get

Is there some Shimano kit I can purchase that has all of the parts I could need for all of the gear shifting?

Which version of Shimano should I get sora, tiagra, 105?

Do I really need a triple Crank?

How much should a bike weigh?

RacerX

sounds like you need a full bike - building up takes a bit more experience with what works for you.
That ebay link doesn't work.

u-ray

ok my bad the correct link is


https://www.stores.ebay.com/id=20363443

Im looking for a road bike

RacerX

since you don't even know the correct size to look for, it might be best to go to some local shops and try some bikes and buy one through them. many will do proper fittings for free. This might get you going on the right track better than ebay.

u-ray

Cool Ill try it./

brent

Uray-
In my humble opinion, this is what you should do:
Go to your local shop and say you're interested in a new bike (you're not lying, you *are* interested...). let them fit you, find your exact size for the type of bike you want. after you know your size, talk out of buying a bike that day, say you are going to shop around, whatever, just get out before the salesman has you changing flats in the shop for six years to pay for the bike...
now, get on ebay and search search search. It may be a few weeks before you find a super deal. I found one a while back and I got a used bike that I figure is worth around 200 bucks for 90 plus shipping. You don't need a 2000$ bike if you're starting out. Shopping around and comparing bikes is a great way to learn about them too. Everytime you see something interesting on ebay, read up on the components and figure out if it's a good deal. I check at least once a week just out of boredom at work..
Don't try building a bike for a while, at least a few months of riding and working on your own bike.
Good luck!
-brent

velocipedio

Bike fit is a very personal and indiosyncratic thing, so RacerX is right to direct you to a bike shop. On the other hand, the Huggi formula of 0.65 X Your inseam in CM, is pretty accurate for seat-tube height, though you have to be sure to measure your inseam from the floor, right up to where you'd have a bar wedged into your gonads. I personally prefer 0.67 X inseam, but I think I'm a minority.

Vertical frame size is only PART of the equation, however, and even if you get a frame with good vertical and standover height, there's still the question of top-tube and reach. One thing you might try is to go to Wrench Science and use their fitting calculator. It's actually surprisingly accurate.

However, there are a whole lot of intagibles and small details, like geometric variations and frame material that can affect how comfortable you'll actually be on a bicycle, and that's VERY difficult to quantify unless you've actually tried and been fitted for a bike. That's why you should go to a bike shop.

Rotifer

Once you have your sized dialed in ... try Recycled Cycles .

u-ray

Sweet, for the love of Cycling..... MAN!!! you guys rock.



I just got off of work and will be making my way to the "shop" for the sizing. I will also compare what the sizes the shop gives me to what the Equation gives me. Then Im going to do as someone else suggested and shop EBAY and just buy a bike that will be shipped to me with everything unassembled so I can reasemble and learn instead of bugging people and spending thousands of dollars (which I hope I can do one day)


Then I guess its back to the ol MTB, for a while....

I wonder how much this hobby cost per year?

MichaelW

If you are going to bum around a bike shop but not buy, make sure you dont do at peak time. Good small bike shops have a hard time and cant afford to lose real customers.
You may find a shop which does 2nd hand bikes as well as new. If so, then that would be an ideal place to buy. Bike clubs are also a good source of 2nd hand bikes.
You dont need the latest technology to get out and ride. Many of use still use down-tube shifters. A quality older cheap bike is a good place to start messing with bike fit. This takes some times , since you need to get used to riding.

The triple chainset may be a good idea if you have steep hills.

Brian Ratliff

If you are pretty new to cycling, I would suggest getting a bike that is already put together. It costs less usually than trying to buy the frame and all components separately, unless you are really good at tracking down good deals (the road frame Nashbar sells and two good wheels will cost most of the $600). If you are willing to spend a couple hundred dollers more, you can get a new, very good, basic road bike. Shop just before the bike shop gets the new models for next year, if they don't have your size, make them find it for you. Look for a steel frame and components that are no lower than 105 or Tiagra (Shimano) or Veloce (Campagnolo).

If you really want to build the bike, here are some suggestions that can answer some of your questions. At 6'1", you are probably a 58cm (or bigger) unless you have short legs, though I make the suggestion with trepidation. The other posters are correct that fit on a road bike is very important, almost above all else. It is better to be fitted than to guess.

Look for a steel frame (used or new). Steel is a bit heavier than aluminum, but lower price frames of steel are much better than low price Al. If you buy the frame used, look for bulges or scrapes in the paint job that may be indicators of frame damage. Make sure the derailler hanger is straight (especially on an Al frame as it is risky to bend back). Make sure the components you want to hang on it will fit.

You can get component kits, or you can buy components separately. Mixing components from the same manufacturer is usually okay (the exception is Campy, where they made it so shifters made before 2001 will not work with rear deraillers made after 2001 and vice verse).

If you plan to use the bike more than a few times a month, get nothing below Shimano 105 or Campy Veloce. The lines below will not hold up. Sora does not allow you to shift from the drops. Down tube shifting is perfectly okay.

Triples are a good thing if there are hills where you are or anywhere you may remotely move to. Unless you plan to race, there is no good reason not to get a triple. You will find the gears on a road bike are much higher than the ones on the mountain bike.

A low cost road bike should weigh somewhere around 20 to 25 pounds unloaded.

I hope this helps. I have two road bikes, one of which I bought used and have since rebuilt. It is a fun and anxiety ridden operation, but you learn a lot and you have satisfaction of riding something put together with your own hands (I even learned how to build wheels). Just so you know, It takes a while to put the bike together. I was only able to rebuild my first bike once I got the second to use for the month and a half it was down.

You can get a lot of good components for good prices at mail order places like Nashbar or Performance. Just take care to know what you get.

Last word (promise ): don't forget the cost of tools in your calculations.