Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

1991 Trek Cassette replacement

Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

1991 Trek Cassette replacement

Old 08-30-14, 10:07 PM
  #1  
xwright
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1991 Trek Cassette replacement

I recently got a 1991 Trek 2300 which needs a new cassette. It currently has a 13-21 7-speed cassette and I'm looking for something to replace it with. The guy at the LBS made it seem very difficult (expensive), is that the case? It has a 53/39 up front and the original Shimano 600 all around.

I'm wondering what my options are here.

Thank you!
xwright is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 01:06 AM
  #2  
RoadGuy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,334

Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Expensive is a relative term.

You can take your choice of tons of new and used 7-speed cassettes from Shimano or Sunrace or SRAM off eBay with auctions starting at $1. Or, if you don't want to wait for an auction to end, there are tons of "Buy It Now" cassettes going for $15, including shipping.

You will need a tool to remove the old cassette, and it will cost less than $10. Changing the cassette will take you less than five minutes. Remove the rear wheel from the bike, use the tool to loosen the lock ring on the cassette, remove the old cassette, attach the new cassette, tighten the lock ring using the tool, and reinstall the rear wheel. That's all there is to it.

If you decide to change the cassette gear ratios, you need to check the rear derailleur adjustments.

Does that sound expensive or difficult? Sounds like the bike shop just wants to sell you a new bike.
RoadGuy is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 06:33 AM
  #3  
Homebrew01
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,780

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1145 Post(s)
Liked 775 Times in 513 Posts
Are you sure it's a cassette and not a freewheel ? Verify before ordering a replacement.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 06:40 AM
  #4  
canam73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Posts: 6,405
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by RoadGuy
Expensive is a relative term.

You can take your choice of tons of new and used 7-speed cassettes from Shimano or Sunrace or SRAM off eBay with auctions starting at $1. Or, if you don't want to wait for an auction to end, there are tons of "Buy It Now" cassettes going for $15, including shipping.

You will need a tool to remove the old cassette, and it will cost less than $10. Changing the cassette will take you less than five minutes. Remove the rear wheel from the bike, use the tool to loosen the lock ring on the cassette, remove the old cassette, attach the new cassette, tighten the lock ring using the tool, and reinstall the rear wheel. That's all there is to it.

If you decide to change the cassette gear ratios, you need to check the rear derailleur adjustments.

Does that sound expensive or difficult? Sounds like the bike shop just wants to sell you a new bike.
I am going to guess that his bike takes the older Uniglide cassette which is no longer made. While they do come up on ebay, they tend to go for much more than the equivalent Hyperglide and certain sizes and models do go for really high prices. It may be that they are unavailable through normal lbs supply chains.

If it is a Uniglide, it doesn't come off in the manner you described, either. The last cog functions as the lock ring and it requires 2 chain whips to remove.
canam73 is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 09:22 AM
  #5  
BoSoxYacht
Banned
 
BoSoxYacht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: take your time, enjoy the scenery, it will be there when you get to it
Posts: 7,281

Bikes: 07 IRO BFGB fixed-gear, 07 Pedal Force RS

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by canam73
I am going to guess that his bike takes the older Uniglide cassette which is no longer made. While they do come up on ebay, they tend to go for much more than the equivalent Hyperglide and certain sizes and models do go for really high prices. It may be that they are unavailable through normal lbs supply chains.

If it is a Uniglide, it doesn't come off in the manner you described, either. The last cog functions as the lock ring and it requires 2 chain whips to remove.
It's nice to see that some people actually know WTH they are talking about.
BoSoxYacht is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 10:29 AM
  #6  
xwright
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Are you sure it's a cassette and not a freewheel ? Verify before ordering a replacement.
I thought it was a freewheel because the 1991 catalogue says "(fw) shimano hyperglide 13-21", but the mechanic at the LBS said it was a cassette.

I believe it is not a uniglide system, because it looks like it'll accept one of those tools to twist and unlock the cassette.

If that is the case, I'm wondering which cassette would work best with the current crankset on there in terms of gearing, since I can't seems to find many 13-21.

Thanks for all the help!
xwright is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 10:44 AM
  #7  
RoadGuy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,334

Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
If the OP's Trek 2300 has the original wheels that it came from the Factory with, it will have an Shimano Ultegra 600 Tricolor 7-speed HyperGlide rear wheelhub. I have a 94 Trek 2300, and I have recently seen others. Mine and every other one I've looked at (91 or newer with the original wheels) has a 7 or 8-speed HyperGlide cassette.

Even if somebody changed the rear wheel, and it has an older Shimano UniGlide wheelhub of some sort, right now there's a used Shimano 7-speed UniGlide 13-23 cassette going for $14.50 on eBay. Two change whips would cost $20-$30, which isn't that much, if he wanted to try changing the cassette himself. He might already even have the chain whips. I've never changed a UniGlide cassette, and I have one chain whip, getting one more is no big deal.

The OP could also choose to replace the rear wheel if it was changed to something that uses a replacement freewheel or cassette is relatively expensive or unavailable. No need to panic.
RoadGuy is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 11:04 AM
  #8  
datlas 
Should Be More Popular
 
datlas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 40,761

Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix

Mentioned: 548 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20382 Post(s)
Liked 7,120 Times in 3,337 Posts
OP, look at Sheldon Brown's page to help you figure out if you need a cassette or freewheel. From that time period, it could easily be either one but the two should NOT be confused.

Once you know what you need, you should be able to find a replacement easily.
__________________
Originally Posted by rjones28 View Post
Addiction is all about class.
datlas is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 11:07 AM
  #9  
xwright
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks all, I'm mostly just confused on the gear of situation. Will I have any problems using a 12-28 with my current setup?
xwright is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 11:12 AM
  #10  
RoadGuy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,334

Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by xwright
I thought it was a freewheel because the 1991 catalogue says "(fw) shimano hyperglide 13-21", but the mechanic at the LBS said it was a cassette.

I believe it is not a uniglide system, because it looks like it'll accept one of those tools to twist and unlock the cassette.

If that is the case, I'm wondering which cassette would work best with the current crankset on there in terms of gearing, since I can't seems to find many 13-21.

Thanks for all the help!

You have your choice of gear ratios. You can get an identical replacement if you are satisfied with what you have. What is best for the rider is an individual choice. 11T is generally the largest small cog you'll see on a 7-speed cassette. Do you spin out the 13T? Would you like a smaller small cog? There are 11T and 12T small cogs available. Do you live/ride where there are hills and do you want/need a larger "granny" gear? There are cassettes with 23T, 25T, 26T, and 28T, large cogs (and I have read that a 30T cog will work with the Ultegra 600 rear derailleur, but have not tried it). You can even mix and match cogs (within brands of cassettes) to assemble a custom cassette with your choice of gear ratios. There are hills where I ride and a 21T low gear is not near low enough for me, I prefer a 26T or a 28T. I'm working on gathering/buying a 8-speed cassette with 13T and 14T cogs so I can assemble a 8-speed 13-28 cassette for my Trek 2300.

I took a quick look and you can get 13-23 and 13-26 Shimano 7-speed cassettes for less than $30, Shimano 13-28 for just over $30, or Shimano 11-28 for less than $15, brand new, "Buy It Now" on eBay.

Last edited by RoadGuy; 08-31-14 at 11:24 AM.
RoadGuy is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 11:18 AM
  #11  
canam73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Posts: 6,405
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by xwright
Thanks all, I'm mostly just confused on the gear of situation. Will I have any problems using a 12-28 with my current setup?
Hyperglide is definitely a cassette. Going to a 28 would most likely require a longer chain, which is a good idea when changing the cassette anyway. I don't think the older shimano short cage rear derailleurs were rated for 28, but from what I have heard you can usually make it work. But I have never tried it.
canam73 is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 11:21 AM
  #12  
RoadGuy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,334

Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by xwright
Thanks all, I'm mostly just confused on the gear of situation. Will I have any problems using a 12-28 with my current setup?
While Shimano publishes the spec for the 7-speed rear derailleur (105 and Ultegra) at a difference of 15T, I have or have had 12-28 cassettes on my bikes, and they worked fine.

Is the 13T small cog on your cassette too small, and can you spin and hold your cadence above what is comfortable for you? I'm more of a low rpm grinder, and I don't like spinning at what used to be the recommended 90 rpm (I'm more of a 70-75 rpm guy, and always have been). That would indicate that you can power a smaller small cog than you are presenting running.

Last edited by RoadGuy; 08-31-14 at 11:28 AM.
RoadGuy is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Vintage Raleigh
Bicycle Mechanics
24
05-16-17 11:14 PM
practical
Bicycle Mechanics
21
10-15-15 01:00 PM
adamlesandrini
Bicycle Mechanics
18
04-23-12 11:06 PM
Palomar01
Road Cycling
24
05-31-11 10:21 AM
newbugdriver
Bicycle Mechanics
7
02-10-10 02:09 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.