gabeham206

Just finished building up my newest Emonda SL, with Ultegra R8000 mechanical. My previous frame had stress cracks in the paint or carbon around the seat/top tube. Trek wasn't sure how bad the cracks really were, and decided to be safe than sorry and replace my frame. Love Trek and their lifetime frame warranty.

Campag4life

Thanks so much Benji.What groupset and wheels are you running on your ALR and may I ask what your BB86 bottom bracket mfr. of choice is?
ALR weight of 1056g is impressive for an AL frame.

Campag4life

Beautiful bike Gary. Is that the 2018 Bontrager Aeolus 5 wheelset i.e. carbon fairing bonded to Al wheel for an affordable aero wheelset with Al braking track? Do you like the wheels?

thisisbenji

I’m just running a $30 SRAM gxp, nothing special. I have a SRAM Force groupset from 2011 that I’m running along with Neuvation R28SL wheels from probably around 2011 as well.

garysol1 

My wheelset is the 2017 Aeolus D3 which I am pretty sure is identical to the 2017. It is not the aluminum brake track fairing wheel. That wheel is called the Aeolus Comp. The D3 is a full carbon wheel that is made at Trek in Wisconsin. It uses DT Swiss internals in its hubs and is tubeless ready and 1,440 grams a pair. I have been VERY impressed with this wheelset. So far they have been bomb proof, fast and light. Only downside is that they are spendy.

Dean V

Are any of the frames still made in Wisconsin?
I see that your SLR is Taiwanese.

garysol1 

I really don't know if any frames are still made in Wisconsin save for maybe team bikes and pre production test bikes.
It sure looks like 2017 may have been the last year for USA built Treks.

Campag4life

Thanks Gary...well done and appreciate your comments.

Lazyass

I scrolled through the thread and I didn't see anything about the S4. Has anyone ridden one? I'm curious how H2 geometry handles, I don't like slow turning bikes. And just how the bottom of the rung 300 series frame feels overall.

I know it's not a lightweight but I won't be racing it. Just weekend club rides, charity rides, ect. I read the 56cm weighs 18.95lbs, the '16 model I'm looking at for sale is a 54. I have a wheelset and a standard crankset that would chop probably close to 2lbs off so I could get it fairly light. Light enough for me. $800 sound decent for this? It's hardly been ridden.

garysol1 

For $800 you can hardly go wrong. The H2 geometry is sporty and spirited feeling but with a decent amount of stack so that the position is not super aggressive. The bike turns quickly but not to a point of being nervous. It is a nice all day bike. The 300 carbon is fine but a bit heavy, heavier than the aluminum version even I believe.

Lazyass

That sounds okay. The stack is 3cm higher than my '11 Focus, but I happen to have 3cm of spacers on it so that would be perfect. Not too worried about the weight, I could get it to 17lbs and that's good enough for me, I don't have any mountains to climb.

garysol1 

I bet you will like it then. Trek did a pretty fantastic job on this bikes geometry. You should be able to get a 28 in there or at least a 26. I run 28's but have the direct mount brakes. Good luck with it!

Monkey D.Luffy

cydewaze

That matte looks nice ^^

I finally ditched my cool-looking but crappily performing alligator i-link shift housings, and replaced them with the Shimano ones that came with my 6800 stuff. Shifting is now pretty much flawless. Still looks the same though, so no need for another pic.

I think that's my favorite Emonda color so far.

garysol1 

First day out in the wild....2018 SLR 14.1lbs ready to ride

Campag4life

Beautiful Gary. 14 lbs, amazing. Couple of questions please:
- how tall are you and what size Emonda H2 do you ride?
- what torque do you use on your single bolt saddle rail clamp?
- ever use Loctite on your BB90...or only grease? What brand are your bearings of choice...angular contact?

garysol1 

I am 5'8" and ride a 54 H2.
16nm on the saddle rail clamp (carbon rail)
I have never ever used loctite on any of my BB. I do install with Dumonde MR grease.
I just use the standard Enduro BB90 bearing. Nothing fancy. Seems to work well.

Lazyass

I have another question about the S4 I'm considering buying. I see it has a BB86.5 bottom bracket. Is that the same as a BB86, and does anyone have issues with them, like creaking? I wish the industry would all go back to threaded.

cydewaze

Mine has BB90, so I don't know for sure, but I've read that BB86 and 86.5 are the same. But I suggest you get a second opinion.

Campag4life

Ok a bit of perspective about PF because it is extremely easy for anybody to get lost in this sea of standards.


Below is chart to clear it all up. BB86 has a 86.5mm wide shell. Late model Trek Emondas use BB90 with 90mm shell.


But, the difference doesn't stop there. These BB's are a fundamentally different execution with different design philosophy.


BB90 uses a relatively small bore ID of 37.0mm which corresponds directly with bearing OD of 37.0mm for a slip fit right into the carbon bore BB shell...love or hate this design. ID of the bearings is 24mm which corresponds with a Shimano 24mm spindle ID from 105 to DA.


By contrast, the fractionally narrower shell BB86 uses a 41mm bore ID, and because there is more room, a plastic cup capturing 37mm OD bearings is integrated into the cups and this is pressed into the 41mm ID BB bore which again offers a 24mm bore ID to mate with Shimano cranks.


So very different BB executions.


A final word or thought is...BB86 may get the nod in design integrity. This may not be Trek's position..but in theory, if the same size bearings are buried and captured into cups, and cups have a longer bearings surface compared to stand alone bearings pressed into the carbon BB90 shell, bearing security would be better with BB86. Of course if you have a Trek with solid performing BB90, this point is debatable.


For further clarity, please see the two different types of BB's below. You will see the cups with integrated bearings with BB86 and a BB90 is simply two bearings...with seals that may require spacers or not.


Below.

garysol1 

Very nice and informative post!!

Campag4life

My pleasure brother. Love your taste in bicycles and thanks for sharing!

cydewaze

And you remain one of my favorite people!

Leo the 3rd

bluehills3149

Just built an Emonda SL 58cm or I should say just put an Emonda frame on my old bike. Got the frame off Ebay for $300 (+50 shipping) as I was only bidder in the middle of winter with a badly described ad and was either going to be a bargain or a nightmare but looks to be the real deal. Was not considering a Trek as they're not my thing really (too bling-bling) but I'm very pleased with it as it rides great - but then again the old frame was a 1983 steel Fuji so anything was an upgrade. Parts are a franken group that was on the Fuji as have been acquired over the years. Campy Veloce 10 spd shifters running to Durace 9000 der ("Shimergo" setup), SRAM rival yaw fr der (works great - no trimming!) and TRP magnesium brakes (another Ebay bargain but were originally white and corroded so I painted them black). Wheels are self built Mavic Open Pro (UST) laced with Sapim laser spokes and DT swiss hubs (rr is Coda branded, fr is Specialized). Cranks are compact Centaur Ultratorque, FSA bars and WCS stem complete it. All up with no pedals and cages weighs in just over 7kg (7030g or 15.4lb) and owes me about $1300 (albeit purchased over 10 year period) so I'm pretty happy as I set out to build a reliable bike on a budget and no go all weightweenie on it.