Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

i just got a bike!

Old 11-13-00, 12:01 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
my friend has been trying to get me on the road for months now . . . so i finally broke down and got a Trek 1200 on ebay. it's an older bike, but has a shimano 105 group with down tube shifting and such. i haven't ridden at all 'cept some mountain (more like cross-country) biking in high school. i'm thinkin my friend is gonna thrash me good first few times out . . .

so, any suggestions to make it a little easier on myself until i get used to the idea of actually riding more than occasionally?? anyway, this forum seems pretty cool, hi ya'll! heh,

trekky is offline  
Old 11-13-00, 10:36 AM
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 531
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
NO secrets

Well there are no secrets on how to improve in cycling. The only thing that make sone better is riding and more riding. No way around it.
Xavier is offline  
Old 12-05-00, 02:12 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
welcome to the road

Looks like a decent bike. I didn't notice if it had a computer on it.
My standard advice is to learn to do your own minor maintenance at least, get a small tool kit and tire patch kit to carry on the bike in a seat bag. Include a pump and pressure gauge. Bicycle shorts do more than just make you look like a cyclist, but keep that chammy pad clean. Helmet and mirror, cycling gloves, eye protection. Decent shoes and such.

Best time spent besides riding will be in your local library reading the various bicycling books.

For a beginner, I'd recommend getting a bike computer with the cadence function. A lot of beginners pedal at way less than 60rpm counting pedal revolutions. Most experienced roadies pedal at a cadence between 60-90rpm. Believe it or not, it is easier and you'll last longer pedaling at 75rpm than you will pedaling at 40rpm.

Anyway, welcome. Might be good to visit your local bike shops (LBS) and buy a spare tube or something. Good way to meet them and get them talking about the local road riding.
MikeJ is offline  
Old 12-05-00, 08:08 PM
Senior Member
Cambronne's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good Choice

Trek's 1200 is a good choice, whether you are new to the sport or not. It's a strong, very light bike, with nice mid-range Shimano parts. The shifters are precise and fuss-free, and the derailleurs will give you little to worry about.

You will get years of service from this bike, and as your speed and stamina improve, you will be able to match and even beat riders of newer and far more expensive machines. (I do it, and I'm an old guy.) Component upgrades abound, but keep it simple for now... ride hard, and use what you have.

Many people deride Trek, calling them the General Motors of Cycling... Well, like GM, they're doing something right.
I've had a Trek 1220 since 1994. It is identical to your bike, with the exception of a triple chainring, mountain bike style. When I bought it, there were few triples out there, and I fooled more than one riding partner into thinking I was a much better climber than I really was.

Don't fret the lack of a "granny gear" on your bike... I rarely use it, and you'd come to ignore it as well.

The bike is strong overall, with only one notable area of weakness... those awful Trek Matrix rims. I had my rear rim disintegrate at about 16,000 miles... it cracked between spoke nipples, and went all wobbly. I made it home... just.

I had front & rear rims replaced with very nice Mavic Sup' rims, and the shop that did the wheel building didn't charge too dearly. Don't rush out and buy new wheels just yet... just examine your bike's rims from time to time, when you wash it.

I run Performance GT-K tires, 700X25, these have kevlar belts and are quite impervious to road trash. Also, they're long lasting and inexpensive.

My bike's bottom bracket makes a little noise... annoying squeaks... but with the chain removed, it still spins smoothly, so I haven't had it apart. I've been running 13-30 cassettes, because I have a dozen or so of them from an auction purchase, but the original 12-28 was better overall for me. At 23,000 miles, I'm still on the ORIGINAL brake pads!

Cambronne is offline  
Old 03-15-01, 09:07 PM
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Hey Fellow Trekky, I've got a 2001 Trek 1000. I just started riding a couple months ago, and I can't get off. Already have 2000 miles. Try not to get addicted to eBay on buying things for your bike, like I am. Start watching some Lance videos, that'll help you get on your bike more often. The fastest way to get better is to work on climbing.
Old 04-03-01, 07:54 PM
Chick Magnet on wheels
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Republic of the Philippines
Posts: 223
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Nice to hear you've gotten into the sport =)

Like you, I'm quite new too. I think everyone's said just about everything, however, I think you can spin faster than 60 rpm! I started out at around 70, and can currently maintain 77-80 for extended periods, but my sport previous to cycling was rowing. You, on the other hand, have legs used to pedalling, and should be able to spin faster than I. Just my 2 cents.
Altwegg is offline  
Old 04-06-01, 08:52 PM
Senior Member
pat5319's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 1,149

Bikes: Seven Axiom Ti, Trek 620, Masi cylocross (steel). Masi Souleville 8spd, Fat Chance Mtn. (steel), Schwinn Triple Bar cruiser, Mazi Speciale Fix/single, Schwinn Typhoon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I agree on higher cadence, but I would say make your goal at least 100 rpm, 'cause, when your not thinkin about it, it's gonna drop.
pat5319 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread Starter
Last Post
Classic and Vintage Sales
07-31-16 05:57 PM
Classic & Vintage
11-26-14 08:09 PM
Road Cycling
11-12-10 08:47 AM
Classic & Vintage
04-04-07 11:14 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.