Crank vs wheels
 

First world problems:

My current wheels are a set of hand built (by myself) Velocity A23 / 105 5700 / Salim 2.0/1.75/2.0 black + black brass nipples. 32h of course. The weight is a reasonable ~1850 grams.

My nearly new FSA gossamer crank (bb30) weighs about 800g from what I've seen reported.

If you could upgrade either, which would it be? I've been itching to build a lighter set of wheels, probably 24/20h with some alloy hubs and pacenti sl23's.

On the other hand, I've seen a few carbon cranks that would save not as much weight, but cost less to exchange. The bling is a factor, the gossamer isn't he prettiest to me.

I weigh about 160 lbs, fyi.

Thoughts?

The Red bb30 crank is light and the most reasonably priced in its weight range.

BHS has that deal going with the SL23 and the set of hubs with a triplet rear for $380. SPECIAL OFFER! 24/27H Triplet (9:18) Pacenti SL23 /SL85-SL210

Damn that's a deal.

If funds are tight, BDop's DIY wheel kit is also a great deal:

DIY Alloy Wheel Kit 20/24

Not quite as light, but the BDop kit uses brass nipples, whereas the BHS one uses alloy nipples, even on the rear (were I to build that kit, I'd swap in brass nipples on the rear, and maybe even on the front).

So yeah, I'd also recommend wheels. An extra set of wheels is a lot more likely to be useful than an extra crankset. Or you could sell your old wheels for a decent return - no one's going to pay much for a used FSA crankset...

FYI

FSA SL-K Light Carbon Road Bike Crankset + BB30 53/39t N-10 172.5mm NE | Random Bike Parts

go for a wheel upgrade, you will really feel the difference. with cranks the upgrade feeling is minimal

I'm selling a nearly new take off SRAM Force BB30 172.5mm 50x34 if interested ;)

SL-K Lights aren't light.

They're a tad lighter than an 800g Gossamer crank, big guy :thumb:

Wheels are the better way to go. Having said that, I've been riding the Gossamer for years and am not a fan so it would be tempting to replace that instead.

Send me a PM with some details if you like. Not saying I'll take it, but I certainly will consider it among my options :) /

My best estimate is 350g from the wheels, assuming a 1500g wheelset, and probably 100-150g assuming a 650g or so crankset. I do plan on selling my current wheels to make up for a little of the difference IF I go that route, also the crank for whatever it may bring if I go that way.

Any estimates on the value of the wheels? I was thinking something around $200 +- . I had also toyed with the idea of running tubeless on the SL23's to save another 200g from the tubes (but with a few grams from the sealant I realize). Can anyone comment on the state of tubeless road tires?

Keep the ideas flowing. I like the idea of the FSA SL-K cranks, but they don't really seem to save that much weight for the money. I also like the sram red if a deal could be found.

Thanks for all the replies.

If I had to choose between great shifting and lighter wheels, i'd think long and hard. Going from a Gossamer to a DA9000 or similar will take your breath away.

If this bike (Felt F5) had a standard BB it'd be an easy decision to make. I'm digging the lower inner q factor given by the bb30! My other cranks have nearly rubbed the finish away on the base of the arm. It seems the adapters may negate any weight savings gained by the newer crank. Although, I suppose it's more about the shifting in that department than it is about the weight.

I've come to find out that weight is operhyped and ride quality is underestimated. Me personally, a good stiff rolling set of wheels at 1700g is better than a flexy light set. Smooth shifting is also something i appreciate and although 6700 is by no means bad, when i ride my othe bike with 9000 i can feel a world of difference. Most of it on the front shift and it probably has to do more with cable pull than the crankset but a good crankset like a da9000 is very hard to beat. Mine uses an adaptor for bb86 and although a weight penalty i would not give it up for anything.

From my experience with FSA cranks, going to a Tiagra crankset would take your breath away.

The only reason I stick with my FSA crank is it's an SRM I got a deal on from a teammate who sold me his when he quit racing. And that's about the highest-end FSA crank you can get. Compared to the Ultegra, DuraAce, and Campy Record cranks I have on my other bikes, the FSA crankset shifts like ass - so much so that for races I'll try to use a cassette with range such that I won't ever have to shift off the big ring. It works for me because I'm fine at just about any cadence between 85 and 100 rpm, and I can easily hold lower for short periods on climbs.