Go deep or not?
 

Sorry to start another which wheel thread but I just can't wrap my head around which wheels to buy. I have been riding on Shimano Ultegra 6700's tubeless which have been great wheels but I just want to try something different. Just a little history, I'm not the youngest rider (43) but enjoy getting out to do 30-60 miles a couple times a week with an occasional 75-100mi ride a few times a year. I have been riding on 700x23 Fusion 3's tubeless for the last year or so and really enjoyed the ride but recently switched to Schwalbe One's (same size) and have noticed some great results just switching tires so now I've got the upgrade bug. I thought I was set on getting a set of HED Ardennes plus or having a set of Belgium plus built up with my choice of goodies but I'm thinking that even though I'll lighten up by around 1000 grams and get a bit wider that they're not that much different than what I have to justify spending $1,000+. On the other hand, if I were to get the Jet 6 plus or the new Reynolds Strike's which are now tubeless I'd be about the same weight I am now, have the wider rim, and a 60mm deep profile to help me pick up some speed which is where I'd like to improve. We don't really have hills to speak of here in Central Florida so climbing isn't an issue. One of the bike stores I frequent has been trying hard to get me on a set of Assaults but from what I've researched they're not deep enough to get me the aero advantage I'm looking for but they're lighter than my Ultegra's. I think I've talked myself into getting the Jet 6 plus's but would like to hear from those of you that have gone from a shallow aluminum clincher to a deep 58+mm wheel either all carbon or hybrid like the Jet's and what you liked/disliked about the switch, Thanks!

IMO, if the majority of riding is at less than 18 MPH aero rims have little to offer. to put it in more general terms, the faster one rides the greater the benefit.

You're not suddenly going to be noticeable quicker changing wheels. You're bike would look noticeably nicer, though.

Depends. If you are riding in spirited or competitive group rides, the deeper aero wheels may help a smidge.

If not, ride what you've got.

Well that's about where I'm stuck at. Today I rode 50mi and averaged just above 18 but when I go out for a quick ride in the 25-30 mi range i can push 20+, that's why I believe they could help me. I also ride solo, never in groups but plan to do a few local club rides and see if I can do even better riding with others for motivation to push it a bit more. I still feel like a newbie getting into the sport so late in life but want more out of it than a Sunday ride.

After a ton of research on trying to become more aerodynamic, an aero wheelset isn't the best option price wise. People often upgrade wheelsets because they can drop huge amounts of weight also.

An aero road helmet will almost help you the same as a good wheelset, at nearly 1/10th of the cost. The newish Castelli aero race 5.0, will help you the same, if not more as a wheelset, also about $100.

But yes, I do ride 50mm tubulars.

Just get the Jets! You know you want them, they're going to be awesome. Then, put them on your bike and take a picture and put it up here! You're going to love them and once you get them, you will probably never take them off unless it's raining.

If you've got the dough, then go for it. You only live once. I have eight wheelsets, and my very favorite are my 50mm wheels. I don't race either. People neglect the "fun factor" when evaluating whether to spring for deep/aero wheels. Deep wheels are fun to ride ( I won't go over 50mm, because I believe that is the sweet spot), and cycling is the only thing that comes close to a vice/money pit I spend serious money on.

And I see you are in Florida, which is flat, and that means you'll have a blast riding deep wheels.

I broke down and bought some Reynolds Assuault wheels - performance had them on sale for $999 with an extra 20% off.

I just mounted tires and am currently looking for my spare brake holders for the special brake pads they force you to use. Maiden voyage is likely to be tomorrow afternoon. :) I fully expect to be so damn fast my jersey will color-shift.

Can't you just put the pads in the same holders - that's so much easier than readjusting the brakes.

Here's my 2¢

I wanted lighter wheels for my Madone 4.6 and got a killer deal on a set of Easton 38mm. I didn't want anything too deep since my average was about 18mph. And didn't want anything too heavy since i'm not the strongest climber. The bike also looked great and I rode it more.

On my new bike got a killer deal on a set of 45mm wheels. A bit deeper than the 38s but just as light.

If you looking sharp is important and makes you enjoy riding more... go for it.

You'll only be faster if you count seconds.

If you ride in windy conditions, you'll get blown all over the place, and actually be SLOWER.

That was a killer deal, they had it twice last month. Please post back with your impressions after you ride.

You're not very far from Clermont, so you do have some decent elevation to explore, rather than flat riding only. You didn't mention your weight, but going beyond 50mm could lead to getting tossed around on windy days, especially if you're light. Plus the aero advantage over 50mm would be minimal. Actually, don't expect to see much improvement going to a more aero wheel unless your riding in the low 20's or better. But as said above, if they make you want to ride more and give you inspiration, then go for it. They can be a good motivator to get your speed up. Once you get wheel fever it's tough to pull back. There's plenty to choose from so take your time shopping. While your at it, include Boyd wheels in your search. Good luck.

People say that but it's not true, at least for me, once you ride some. When people start with deep wheels, wind gusts make you nervous. It's similar to getting bumped in a race. The instinctive response is to sudden tighten up which makes things worse.

If you just realize it's the wind and relax, it's nothing. Condider how big an aero profile a rider is on a bike, a slightly deeper wheel profile is nothing.

I have a 18 mile path that heads south to the beach along an exposed bike path next to a parkway. 10 miles out it turns east. At the end I turn around and head back. So at one time i have a head wind, tail wind and cross wind at every ride. I've not had any issues with 38mm rims.

I actually rode through Clermont today and theres more elevation out there then anywhere else I know of in Central Florida but the climbs don't bother me unless I'm on a longer ride like 60+ miles, I really like to grind the hills out and hardly ever use the small ring up front.

I guess you could say I'm a clyde, 6'5 225lbs.

Boyds look nice and I have considered offerings from him, Flo, Williams, November, etc... but I must have a tubeless rim and as far as I know there are only 4 companies making full carbon clinchers tubeless, Easton, Corima, Reynolds, and DT Swiss. Also because of my weight I'm leaning towards a hybrid like the Jets.

Yeah, 38's aren't too bad- I have 35's- when there's a good crosswind, you feel it- but I sure wouldn't want 60's.... (I'm picturing the Meadowbrook from what you said...[or similar]....I'll bet that can indeed get windy!)

Yes, the bikepath to Jones Beach and on to Tobay.

I'm embarrassed to say I didn't even think about that until after I yanked the holders off the bike.

I think that's exactly what I'll do next time I swap out the wheels though (I'm not bold enough to use them on really hilly rides, so I will periodically be switching them around)

Go custom with h plus son archetypes. Light semi aero and sexy as **** :) or re lace your current hubs to those.

Swapping pads is an easy 5 minute job. I don't switch wheel sets often, but I label the pads so they go back on the same location.

pads are marked left/right so you jsut need to mark them front/rear.

^^ Correct ^^

70-75% of drag comes from the rider who has much more surface area than their components and relatively horrid (.75 on the hoods, .8 on the drops which are faster due to reduced surface area and therefore CdA which isn't much better than a flat board at 1.0) drag cofficient.

Fast clothing and positioning will do more for you than wheels. especially where the comparison is against contemporary alloy wheels (somewhat aero, 25-30mm deep, 14/17 gauge spokes) not the box-section straw man companies trot out to make their product look better.

Here's the FLO data at 30 MPH - the non-disc carbon fiber wheels are only a big win with enough side wind to generate lift. Note the open pro up top.

http://www.flocycling.com/aero.php

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=436991

For comparison purposes, total aero drag can break 3000g at 30 MPH in a road bike position.

Good numbers are hard to come by, although Biggest Bang For Your Buck In Time Trial Equipment | CyclingTips gives a time-trial biased info graphic which is interesting

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=437002

Last year's aero jerseys (Louis Garneau Corsa 2.0, Castelli Aero Race 4.0) are currently $100 close-out items at competitive cyclist, and new prior year sizing samples (LG Modo) $50 off ebay.

I got myself a Corsa 2.0, and liked it enough to add a Mondo to cover two hard days a week without intervening laundry loads. Comfortably snug like a nice pair of cycling shorts, no annoying flapping anywhere, and very good at wicking sweat.

I want to see how aero jerseys compare to skin suits, actual race-cut jerseys, and regular euro-fit as opposed to the over-sized club fit straw man and if I can't find data am tempted to play with my power meter and rchung's virtual elevation model to estimate CdA.