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Crank Failure

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Old 03-22-15, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Can somebody post the picture of the broken spindle?
The link is in post 8
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Old 03-22-15, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ussprinceton
is it due to bad design flaw, or you're just too strong?
I am beginning to think bad design. https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/fat...lure-broke.jpgAustralian Cycling Forums - Broken Dura Ace 7900 Crankset
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Old 03-22-15, 07:08 PM
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OP...how much do you weigh and are you a beefy sprinter type?
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Old 03-22-15, 08:15 PM
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So you've got 2 anecdotes of failure. Every design is a trade off. Light, cheap, durable; Pick two.
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Old 03-22-15, 08:17 PM
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Yes, I am heavy, 230lbs. and am strong. I have broken frames, handle bars, spindles, seat posts, seats, axels. You name it, I have broken it. I have pulled front derailleurs out of frams. It does seem that the 2011 Dura Ace and XTR cranks have had issues. There are pictures of broken cranks on the web. The break is all in the same place. There also a picture that looks to be of a 2011 spindle and of a spindle possibly of a later crank which is noticeably thicker. It might have been an issue that was fixed quickly because it seems like the posts and pictures are in that 2011 time frame.
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Old 03-22-15, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
So you've got 2 anecdotes of failure. Every design is a trade off. Light, cheap, durable; Pick two.
I posted two. If you want to bother, there are many more. It also looks like Shimano changed the design slightly on the spindle. I have been riding long enough on the track and road to know that my demographic is not the group road equipment is designed for. I have steel bars on my track bike for a reason.

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Old 03-22-15, 08:37 PM
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If you're pulling fd's out of frames there's some mechanic, or user error
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Old 03-22-15, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
I posted two. If you want to bother, there are many more.
Whoosh
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Old 03-22-15, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
Yes, I am heavy, 230lbs. and am strong. I have broken frames, handle bars, spindles, seat posts, seats, axels. You name it, I have broken it. I have pulled front derailleurs out of frams. It does seem that the 2011 Dura Ace and XTR cranks have had issues. ....
One of the problems (if it's fair to call it that) with modern high end road stuff is that it's designed around competitive racing. That means a design standard where 175#s is considered very heavy, and pedaling style is almost exclusively high rpm cadence, even when climbing.

Yes, pros are strong, so they do design for a certain amount of strength, but unlike prior years where stage race bikes had to be built tough, better engineering tools now allow bikes to be designed very close to the line. That means less surplus reserve of strength and toughness. Also Marketing is demanding new lighter stuff every year, and the industry model is now more like that of the electronics world.

As I said, that may not be a problem per se, but it does make many offerings unsuited for weekend warriors who may weigh more, or have more of a mashing than spinning pedaling style. It also means that the "best" bikes are less suited to high mileage, everyday, all weather use with minimal service. In dog terms, we've moved from tough mutts to high strung, delicate purebreds.

This wouldn't be a problem a all, if makers made a point to offer B tier bikes that aren't just last year's A bikes. Adding a few grams to a B-level crank spindle would add little cost, and prevent much of this kind of issue, I just don't see it happening now.
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Old 03-22-15, 08:51 PM
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u
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Whoosh
Stay ignorant. It looks good on you.
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Old 03-23-15, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
One of the problems (if it's fair to call it that) with modern high end road stuff is that it's designed around competitive racing. That means a design standard where 175#s is considered very heavy, and pedaling style is almost exclusively high rpm cadence, even when climbing.

Yes, pros are strong, so they do design for a certain amount of strength, but unlike prior years where stage race bikes had to be built tough, better engineering tools now allow bikes to be designed very close to the line. That means less surplus reserve of strength and toughness. Also Marketing is demanding new lighter stuff every year, and the industry model is now more like that of the electronics world.

As I said, that may not be a problem per se, but it does make many offerings unsuited for weekend warriors who may weigh more, or have more of a mashing than spinning pedaling style. It also means that the "best" bikes are less suited to high mileage, everyday, all weather use with minimal service. In dog terms, we've moved from tough mutts to high strung, delicate purebreds.

This wouldn't be a problem a all, if makers made a point to offer B tier bikes that aren't just last year's A bikes. Adding a few grams to a B-level crank spindle would add little cost, and prevent much of this kind of issue, I just don't see it happening now.
The problem then is convincing the "b-tier" people to buy "b-tier" components.

An Ultegra crank would certainly be more than adequate for me. But the OP had chosen Dura-Ace.

In many cases, ultra-heavy people (300+ are naturally choosing MTBs, although not all do. But, there are the ones in the middle like the OP at 230 lbs... which a road bike should be able to handle.

I know all about standing torque. My driveway peaks at about 17%, which I hit with a top gearing of 41-19 (700c), but sometimes even higher gears, 41-17.

I don't know the exact force that gets applied to the pedals, but it is somewhat near (180 lbs weight + 10 to 20 lbs pulling on handlebars + 10 to 20 lbs pulling on opposite pedal). So, the drive pedal gets the equivalent of about 220 lbs.

The OP may well be able to mash with excess of 300 lbs into the driving pedal. He also has more weight to pull up the hills.

The 150 to 170 lb pro rider may never actually exceed their weight with driving force, and derives HP from lower force at higher cadences.

My guess, as the OP is already suspecting. Shimano comes out with the new latest and greatest. Distributes prototypes to their teams for a few months. If all checks out, they do a few last minute changes, then send them off to market. On the open market, riding styles not anticipated by the pros start finding additional flaws. Perhaps also fatigue catches up with time.

If the company gets a rash of warranty claims, they will go back and fix the problem as an interim release.
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Old 03-23-15, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
u
Stay ignorant. It looks good on you.
You weigh 230lbs. You have a self proclaimed history of breaking just about every piece of a bicycle.

Yet you claim that the design of the Dura Ace spindle is defective because your's broke, and you can google some examples of others breaking.

It's likely as has already been said in this thread that yours broke due a manufacturing defect, with the help of your size.

The reason for the "Whoosh" is you completely missed my point, that designs have tradeoffs, and if you want very light components, there is going to be a tradeoff in durability.

Shimano could have spec'd the spindle in your crank to be 5 times as strong as it is, giving it greater margin for error from manufacturing imperfections.

But it would be heavier, and people including yourself, wouldn't buy them.

The tradeoff in making lighter parts is that they occassionally are going to fail, particularly when used by people at the end of the bell curve.
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Old 03-23-15, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
Yes, I am heavy, 230lbs. and am strong. I have broken frames, handle bars, spindles, seat posts, seats, axels. You name it, I have broken it. I have pulled front derailleurs out of frams. It does seem that the 2011 Dura Ace and XTR cranks have had issues. There are pictures of broken cranks on the web. The break is all in the same place. There also a picture that looks to be of a 2011 spindle and of a spindle possibly of a later crank which is noticeably thicker. It might have been an issue that was fixed quickly because it seems like the posts and pictures are in that 2011 time frame.
I see. Makes a lot more sense now. Hard to know what crank in the industry is the strongest because my sense is you are a 3-4 standard deviations to the right of mean in terms of power and weight. So guys like you will tend to break stuff and guys like me won't.
All you can do is get another DA crank or equivalent and install it to spec and hope for the best. I haven't heard of any particular crank being stronger or weaker. You may want to try a Campy UT crank but no idea if it has more spindle strength than a DA crank. Possible that a 30mm spindle aka BB30 maybe stronger than a DA 24mm spindle but not necessarily so....wall thickness is less in 30mm BB30 designs. Hope you get a replacement and glad you weren't hurt.
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Old 03-23-15, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
u
Stay ignorant. It looks good on you.
Actually colnago...not cool. Merlin is one of the most knowledgeable guys here. Lets not go there.

To put a finer point on it, I think the real dilemma for you colnago is with your weight and strength, is identifying which crank is the strongest. I haven't seen any data to say which crank is.

To echo Merlin's point, design robustness is by intent the ratio of strength to material property variation. No two cranks have the material...material coming into the plant varies day to day within a given tolerance. So if the design isn't robust enough to compensate for normal material variation then failures will ensue when subjected to rider of your weight and strength repeatedly over time. Strength of course has a cost in terms of weight and weight is the enemy on a racing bike. So the term design defect is really misleading. Your crank would not have failed with me riding the bike. Hope this makes sense.

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Old 03-23-15, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
You weigh 230lbs. You have a self proclaimed history of breaking just about every piece of a bicycle.

Yet you claim that the design of the Dura Ace spindle is defective because your's broke, and you can google some examples of others breaking.

It's likely as has already been said in this thread that yours broke due a manufacturing defect, with the help of your size.

The reason for the "Whoosh" is you completely missed my point, that designs have tradeoffs, and if you want very light components, there is going to be a tradeoff in durability.

Shimano could have spec'd the spindle in your crank to be 5 times as strong as it is, giving it greater margin for error from manufacturing imperfections.

But it would be heavier, and people including yourself, wouldn't buy them.

The tradeoff in making lighter parts is that they occassionally are going to fail, particularly when used by people at the end of the bell curve.
Try reading my posts dude and stop telling me things I already know. My point to you is that if you would spend some time with Google you would find that the riders who don't sound like they have a weight issue are having a problem with 2011 cranks. The problem doesn't seem to be happening to later cranks and no I never said it was a bad design, I said it might be because I haven't looked into it enough to make a claim that it is for sure. You, however, have posted nothing in the contrary.
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Old 03-23-15, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Actually colnago...not cool. Merlin is one of the most knowledgeable guys here. Lets not go there.

To put a finer point on it, I think the real dilemma for you colnago is with your weight and strength, is identifying which crank is the strongest. I haven't seen any data to say which crank is.

To echo Merlin's point, design robustness is by intent the ratio of strength to material property variation. No two cranks have the material...material coming into the plant varies day to day within a given tolerance. So if the design isn't robust enough to compensate for normal material variation then failures will ensue when subjected to rider of your weight and strength repeatedly over time. Strength of course has a cost in terms of weight and weight is the enemy on a racing bike. So the term design defect is really misleading. Your crank would not have failed with me riding the bike. Hope this makes sense.
Yes, I am aware of what the issue is. The reason I said there might be a design issue is because I found a whole website devoted to pictures of broken cranks that looked like they were Shipmano cranks. There was also a post of two spindles, clearly one was much thicker than the other. Might be a problem was stated because I don't care enough to look into it further because I know things break sometimes. I have a new crank on the way and should be on the road again.
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Old 03-23-15, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by colnago62
I posted two. If you want to bother, there are many more. It also looks like Shimano changed the design slightly on the spindle. I have been riding long enough on the track and road to know that my demographic is not the group road equipment is designed for. I have steel bars on my track bike for a reason.
I am well aware of the fact that I am not a roadie. Years ago I had this brilliant idea to save time in the early season by doing my intervals on the road instead of driving to the velodrome. I learned real fast that road bikes tend to not hold up well to the explosive track style starts. I don't even know how much my bike weighs. I ride 32/36 wheels. My Zipp wheels are the Max design. I get it.
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Old 03-24-15, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY

As to why it broke, that's impossible to say. Underbuilt for the application and failing from a peak load, flaw or stress riser leading to premature fatigue failure, local impact damage from a pedal strike leading to premature failure later, etc.
"
This got me thinking about the stress risers, and how much more sensitive the "new and improved hollow" axle cranks are to flaws. A small imperfection on an old square taper 17mm diameter I'm betting is less of a concern than the same flaw on the outside of a newer, hollow crank. Time to pull out my copy of "Peterson's Stress Concentration Factors". If so, it's just adding to my opinion that newer cranks, external BB, BB30, etc. really don't add anything for the average rider.
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Old 03-24-15, 07:08 AM
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Looking at the picture in post #8 , I would have expected those rims to have rim/spoke failure way before snapping a crank spindle. Certain part of the year we train several times up, with heavy braking coming back down, on a 1/2 mile 28% incline. I don't get much beyond 3,000 miles on those wheels and they have to be rebuilt, by the third time the rims are done.

Appreciate it if you can post a close up picture of the actual fracture, that would be focusing perpendicular to the actual spindle direction towards the fracture.

Edit: never mind, I looked at the other links you posted, I can see exactly what is happening there and why it fails.

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Old 03-24-15, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Point
This got me thinking about the stress risers, and how much more sensitive the "new and improved hollow" axle cranks are to flaws. A small imperfection on an old square taper 17mm diameter I'm betting is less of a concern than the same flaw on the outside of a newer, hollow crank. Time to pull out my copy of "Peterson's Stress Concentration Factors". If so, it's just adding to my opinion that newer cranks, external BB, BB30, etc. really don't add anything for the average rider.
I don't agree. I much prefer a modern DA or Campy UT to any square taper. I have worked on 100 square taper BB's and never liked the design.
On the subject of stress risers or propensity of new versus old cranks, this is pure speculation and unproven. I don't see any more failures of the new versus older stuff. The newer stuff sure is stiffer for stronger riders. Colango is an outlier. He breaks frames, wheels and cranks. A beast.
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Old 03-24-15, 07:38 AM
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Lovely! I just bought this crankset for my bike.

I'm glad you weren't injured when it broke. I know someone who broke one of the first DA hollowtech cranks during a race and he didn't fare as well.
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Old 03-24-15, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
I don't agree. I much prefer a modern DA or Campy UT to any square taper. I have worked on 100 square taper BB's and never liked the design.
On the subject of stress risers or propensity of new versus old cranks, this is pure speculation and unproven. I don't see any more failures of the new versus older stuff. The newer stuff sure is stiffer for stronger riders. Colango is an outlier. He breaks frames, wheels and cranks. A beast.
I've had quite the different experience. Since 1984, have owned 8 bikes with square taper (all OEM) without a problem. The one external BB crank failed at the interface between the spider and spindle. Therefore, I'm still dubious as to any advantage over square taper. As for stiffness being any advantage, that's been beaten to death around here
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Old 03-24-15, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Point
I've had quite the different experience. Since 1984, have owned 8 bikes with square taper (all OEM) without a problem. The one external BB crank failed at the interface between the spider and spindle. Therefore, I'm still dubious as to any advantage over square taper. As for stiffness being any advantage, that's been beaten to death around here
You can still run square taper although BSA bikes are becoming a bit more rare. Agree not much a difference in speed. I just hate the design and when I worked on them a lot I always felt there was room for improvement and that time has come. The advantages over square taper are manifold whether you believe a whippy crank is as fast or not. Weight, and cost of BB30 bearing replacement are two. I prefer the stiffness of any late model crank. Also better control of chainline because a tapered shaft isn't a hard shoulder and so chainline varies based upon center bolt torque. There is a reason the industry has moved on. But its ok if you don't of course and I believe you should ride what you like and lots of square taper cranks and BB's still available.

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Old 03-24-15, 09:27 PM
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Trek uses a BB90 bottom bracket. I have had nothing but issues with it. I have to replace the bearings every couple of months. The last set were installed on November 27th. They were inspected in mid February. Due to the break, the mechanic checked them again and said they were toast. That is how it's been going since I have owned the bike.
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Old 03-24-15, 10:01 PM
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i think i would start looking for a new mechanic.
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