Old tube as patch material?
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Old tube as patch material?
Hi, there. I'm a relative mechanical newbie. I'm also a cheapskate who hates to throw things out, so I tend to patch tubes that can be patched instead of just throwing them out if they only have one or two holes.
I'm finding that I go through patches faster than I go through the glue to attach them, so as I go through patch kits, I'm accumulating partial glue tubes, still usable scuffers, and empty plastic boxes that the patches come in. Instead of buying a new patch kit just to get the patches, I'm wondering if I can just cut patches from old unpatchable tubes. Does that work just as well as store-bought patches?
I'm finding that I go through patches faster than I go through the glue to attach them, so as I go through patch kits, I'm accumulating partial glue tubes, still usable scuffers, and empty plastic boxes that the patches come in. Instead of buying a new patch kit just to get the patches, I'm wondering if I can just cut patches from old unpatchable tubes. Does that work just as well as store-bought patches?
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Hi, there. I'm a relative mechanical newbie. I'm also a cheapskate who hates to throw things out, so I tend to patch tubes that can be patched instead of just throwing them out if they only have one or two holes.
I'm finding that I go through patches faster than I go through the glue to attach them, so as I go through patch kits, I'm accumulating partial glue tubes, still usable scuffers, and empty plastic boxes that the patches come in. Instead of buying a new patch kit just to get the patches, I'm wondering if I can just cut patches from old unpatchable tubes. Does that work just as well as store-bought patches?
I'm finding that I go through patches faster than I go through the glue to attach them, so as I go through patch kits, I'm accumulating partial glue tubes, still usable scuffers, and empty plastic boxes that the patches come in. Instead of buying a new patch kit just to get the patches, I'm wondering if I can just cut patches from old unpatchable tubes. Does that work just as well as store-bought patches?
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You'll probably find that an old tube doesn't work as well as a patch. They tend to be too thick and covered in talc. Adhesion isn't as good either. However there is a solution to buying patch kits. The Third Hand sells Rema patches in boxes of 100 for around $15 and spare glue tubes too. That way you can use those old boxes
I think cleaning the tube and the "patching tube" thoroughly to remove traces of grease, is critical. But after that, the tube will stick very well.
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you have to sandpaper both the tube and patch to clean the surfaces and you must also apply rubber cement to both to ensure proper adhesion. The Rema patches don't need glue because they are already de-vulcanized.
It works, but it's really only ideal as a shop fix when you have the time to let everything dry properly. I haven't had a problem using old inner tubes as patches... yet.
It works, but it's really only ideal as a shop fix when you have the time to let everything dry properly. I haven't had a problem using old inner tubes as patches... yet.
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You know, I found this not to be true: I use a paper tissue with alcohol to clean the surfaces, let it dry (takes a few seconds) and apply the cement - and this seems to be quite enough. Not a single patch has separated afterwards. On the other hand, I had patches not stick perfectly, if I relied on sandpapering only.
#6
holyrollin'
You know, I found this not to be true: I use a paper tissue with alcohol to clean the surfaces, let it dry (takes a few seconds) and apply the cement - and this seems to be quite enough. Not a single patch has separated afterwards. On the other hand, I had patches not stick perfectly, if I relied on sandpapering only.
Whatever the patch, let the cement dry per the instructions.
I tend to install the patched ones after testing with moderate pressure first.
#7
Really Old Senior Member
Try patching the old cut up tube with a patch from itself for practice. All you have to lose is a bit of rubber cement, and you have plenty of that.
You may find one cleaning method works better than another for you.
The main thing in cleaning is you want to remove the old surface layer of oxidized rubber. There shouldn't be any grease on it unless you put it there.
You may find one cleaning method works better than another for you.
The main thing in cleaning is you want to remove the old surface layer of oxidized rubber. There shouldn't be any grease on it unless you put it there.
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those little foil sealed alcohol wipes are the best thing to carry in a ptach kit.
sand the tube, wipe clean with the alkyhol wipe, apply glue, let cure for a miunte or two, apply patch and pressure.
sand the tube, wipe clean with the alkyhol wipe, apply glue, let cure for a miunte or two, apply patch and pressure.
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Absolutely! Sadly, I can't find any with actual alcohol, here in Finland. They all are with water. I'm thinking of buying a bunch as soon as I visit a country that's not as much of a nanny state as my otherwise beautiful Finland.
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Check these links out:
https://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/tubes
https://www.pacificpublishingcompany....d=515218&rfi=6
https://www.treehugger.com/files/2005...d_bike_t_1.php
https://keetsa.com/blog/recycle/bike-...-recycled-bag/
https://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2001...tubetips.shtml
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This has been discussed before many times.
Let me save you the trouble of learning for yourself. Old tire innertubes do not make good patch material.
Real patches are cheap and they work much better. Patches are tougher and they hold on to the tube better.
Let me save you the trouble of learning for yourself. Old tire innertubes do not make good patch material.
Real patches are cheap and they work much better. Patches are tougher and they hold on to the tube better.
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Most all isopropyl alcohol, whether in wipes or in the bottle, is cut with water. Seldom do you find it over 75% alcohol. It's a flammability thing. More water means a higher flash point which means safer to handle. But 75% will usually get the job done...for sterilization Heck, 25% will kill most anything. Try methanol or 190 proof ethanol (Everclear here).
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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I'll try it with some plain fingernail polish remover. The kind with no added oils or perfumes.
#15
Pwnerer
John, tire tubes have lots of uses when you can't repair them. They make excellent tie-downs when cut up, for instance.
Check these links out:
https://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/tubes
https://www.pacificpublishingcompany....d=515218&rfi=6
https://www.treehugger.com/files/2005...d_bike_t_1.php
https://keetsa.com/blog/recycle/bike-...-recycled-bag/
https://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2001...tubetips.shtml
Check these links out:
https://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/tubes
https://www.pacificpublishingcompany....d=515218&rfi=6
https://www.treehugger.com/files/2005...d_bike_t_1.php
https://keetsa.com/blog/recycle/bike-...-recycled-bag/
https://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2001...tubetips.shtml
I've used that last one a few times. Now I save thorn-resistant tubes in sizes to fit frame tubes tightly. They work great as chainstay protectors for full suspension bikes as the thicker section can be run at the top where the chain would tear up standard tubes. A little disassembly, a little soap and you have a clean looking guard with no zip ties.
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Thanks, all. I might just go with those Rema patches, cyccommute. (Geez, you and DonnaMB are on all the boards I visit!)
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sorry if this is a repost, but...
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
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sorry if this is a repost, but...
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
Matter of fact, the rear tube on my roadie currently has 3 patches on it (yesterday was rough) and its held pressure all night last night, and I rode it to and from work today without issue.
there may be a pressure limit with some stick on patches, but I dont use those unless I absolutely need to. (BTW, the little stick on patches that come in the kit at Target work surprisingly well if you are in a bind.)
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target is non-existing in Canada, and i just buy new tubes, i dont get many flats, only a couple this summer since i got the wrong tubes (too thin)
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Yeah, I used to just buy new tubes when I had a flat maybe once a year... but I had over 20 flats this year so started to patch them each tube (4) have over 5 patches on them and they work great with 90psi. I think I'll give the tube patch a try since I also have an extra glue left from the 20patch kit.
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sorry if this is a repost, but...
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
i once read somewhere that patches are only desingned to hold half the pressure, and are just to get you home. say you inflate to 40psi, that means 3 patches and your down to 5psi. ok, thats a little unrealistic, but id just go buy a new nube, and keep a patch kit with you on the trail
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You'll probably find that an old tube doesn't work as well as a patch. They tend to be too thick and covered in talc. Adhesion isn't as good either. However there is a solution to buying patch kits. The Third Hand sells Rema patches in boxes of 100 for around $15 and spare glue tubes too. That way you can use those old boxes
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I would think most patches are also a bit thinner.
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Another issue with using old tubes is that the rubber does degenerate. I use to use old tubes. But after spending alot of time trying to figure out what was going wrong with my patches I decided it just was not worth the effort. I'd definitely use it in a pinch, but my confidence is not as high as I would like with them. It sucks to be walking .