jddempst

Hi all,

I’m about to buy a new bike and haven’t ridden in over ten years. I’ve narrowed it down to 2 bikes and would like any input of anything. I test rode about 15 different bikes last week and these 2 bikes felt the best. I’m mainly doing for fitness and will be on the road mostly but if I come across a light dirt road or grass I know I can ride on it. I’m 5’9”, 190 lbs., hence, my fitness level is beginner and 35 yrs.

These 2 bikes were from 2 different shops:

Cannondale Quick 4 ($600)

Frame - Quick, butted 6061 alloy, SAVE
Fork - Quick Carbon Blades, 1 1/8 steerer
Crank - Shimano M151, 48/38/28
Chain - KMC Z72
Rims - Element Xero C3 Wheelset
Spokes - DT Aluminum Nipples
Tires - Kenda Kwick Trax 700X38c
Pedals - Quick Reinforced Compostie w/ Kraton, by Wellgo
Bottom Bracket - Tange Cartridge
Rear Cogs - Sunrace CSM668, 11-32, 8 Speed
Front Derailleur - Shimano M191
Rear Derailleur - Shimano Alivio
Shifters - Shimano Alivio
Handlebars - Cannondale C4, 6061 Alloy, 25mm rise
Stem - Cannondale C4, 6061 Alloy
Headset - Tange Custom Si
Brakes - Tektro TX 120 V Brakes
Seat Post - Cannondale C4 6061Alloy,27.2mm
Wheel Rims - Element Xero C3 Wheelset
Nipples - DT Spokes
Saddle - Cannondale Quick Ergo Performance

Trek FX 7.5 ($900)

Frame - FX Alpha Black Aluminum
Fork - Bontrager Nebula, carbon, SpeedTrap compatible
Wheels - Bontrager SSR wheelset
Tires - Bontrager Race All Weather Hard-Case, 700x32c
Shifters - Shimano Deore, 9-speed trigger
Front Derailleur - Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur - Shimano Deore LX
Crank - Shimano M443 Octalink, 48/36/26
Cassette - SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed
Pedals - Alloy body w/alloy cage
Saddle - Bontrager H2 Flex Form
Seat Post - Bontrager Nebula
Handlebars - Bontrager Satellite Plus IsoZone OS, 25mm rise
Stem - Bontrager SSR, 10 degree
Headset - Slimstak, semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset - Avid SD-3 brakes w/Tektro adjustable-reach levers


So what I’m wondering is (and I think I already know the answer but…) the feel of both bikes seemed the same even though the prices between the 2 are $300. From what I’ve learned in general that the components on the trek will be better. And, the Trek should last longer between tuneups? Also, I assume since they are both new that the cheaper bike (Cannondale) will feel just as good as the trek but the tuneup will not last as long and maybe give me a false sense of the bike when I test rode it?

I guess it mostly depends on the bike builder/shop than the quality of the bike to a certain degree? I figure this because I’ve test ridden a lot of other bikes (within this price range) from other shops and had problems with shifting or tuneup problems….i think. I’m no expert so trying to figure this out. FYI, I didn’t cross chain either.

So, my main question is…I should buy a bike from the shop that had less problems shifting than a shop that I rode a bike from that did have problems? Cause if the shop tunedup the bike right I shouldn’t of had any problems no matter what bike I test rode? I know this might be common sense and probably answered my own questions. But, I would like to hear from an unbiased opinion.

Am I right on all of this? Please tell me if I’m misinformed about anything. Thank you!

JonathanGennick 

The Trek does have nicer components. That may not necessarily translate into a longer interval between tune ups.

Do you have any preference at all? Is one more comfortable than the other? Do you like the paint better on one? Did one shop treat you better than the other? Is one shop easier to travel to than the other?

It sounds like you should ask at least one shop to retune the bike you're interested in, and take another test ride. Don't buy the bike if it's not shifting and performing well during the test ride. But know that some shops don't bother to tune a bike before each test ride. So if you test, and something seems amiss, don't be afraid to speak up and see whether the shop can address the problem. Or, it could be that you are perceiving the difference in component quality.

AdelaaR

You want the trek 7.5fx, don't you?

Just get it

$300 more over ten years is $30 per year or slightly over $1 per month ... if you make sure you ride the bike a lot it'll be worth it ... if however you fail to ride your bike a lot it'll be a waste of money

jddempst

Yeah, the comfort, paint, location is all the same. No preference there. Both bike shops seem to treat me well although the trek shop seemed to be slightly better in service and helpfulness. I've visited both shops twice and got the same level of customer service both times. Although the Cannondale store, I've read mixed reviews that the shop is arrogant and doesn't really want much to do with you if you're not buying a $3000 bike or higher. I personally didn't get that vibe but not out ruling it either since the reviews were mixed. From what I read they are a high end bike shop and is owned by a married couple that are real serious bikers. The trek store was great, and they said they are the oldest store in the US. I don't know if that is true or not.

Yeah, there were 3 other shops that I had slight problems with shifting were OK in service, (not bad but not great as the other 2 good shops), hence, maybe they don't really tune the bike as should when test riding. I did ask on all shops if they could look at it and they all did but didn't see much difference at all. That is where I don't know if the shops sucks or the bike sucks. The 2 good shops, didn't have any problems at all with the bike.

The trek is a little high in my price range. But, willing to get it if it will be better in the long run. Question is how much better is the trek vs. the Cannondale. If there's a small difference in quality between the 2 than I will probably go with the Cannondale. I know some people would say to get the lower price bike to save money and upgrade later. I would rather buy the better bike now if it will save me money in the long run vs the cannondale. Cuz, I'm trying to avoid of having any regrets if I buy the Cannondale because of the cheaper components. Also, the Cannondale has a carbon fork, so are they really skimping on the components for the price of $600 because that is where a big part of the money is on the bike, right?

So, I know the trek is a good bike, but does anyone know anything about the Cannondale Quick 4? As far as, is it a real dramatic difference from the trek. Or is the Cannondale a real good solid bike? The Cannondale felt great, almost as good as the trek, but am I getting false feelings from the Cannondale cuz it's new? And then, I would have way more problems with it later on than if I were to buy the trek?

dpeters11

Personally, I have a Trek 7.5 (2010). But honestly, Cannondale makes good bikes. I got the 7.5 because I liked the geometry and the Trek store we go to. I don't think you'd have more problems with the Cannondale if it's a good shop. It may be cheaper, but it isn't a department store bike either.

tiger16

I have a 2011 trek 7.5fx. I love the bike. One of my favorite features is that I installed a nontrager node 1 computer with a speed trap to my bike. No wires. The 7.5 fork can accept the speed trap. The node 1 has a large display that is easy to read.

irclean

Don't forget the inevitable accessories and upgrades. Lights, helmet, gloves, locks, etc... these things add up quickly. The $300 difference would go a long way to cover those costs.

jddempst

Yeah, I've already figured accessories. I managed to get a close "out the door" total price for both the bike and accessories with discount.

Cannondale = $850
Trek = $1100

jimbojonez

I just got a 2011 Trek 7.5 fx and i love it. My only complaint was the handlebars but i knew about that going in. It just felt better to me than a Quick 3. I did a blog post about the handlebars if your interested. https://www.bartsbiking.com/

jddempst

I guess the trek fx is way more popular than the cannondale quick 4. I assume for obvious reasons. The trek fx is a little out of my price range but I guess maybe I should get it if it's really that great of a bike and/or better than the cannondale. Sigh...I hear you all and understand what you guys' are saying but I'm still undecided. I just want to make the right decision and reason I'm so careful is because this will be the biggest purchase decision for me this year. Because I don't make a lot of money.

jimbojonez, I noticed when test riding the trek fx that the handle grips kept sliding down. Is that common? And, if so is that fixable without buying new/different grips?

AdelaaR

I bought a set of Ritchey truegrips with tiny aluminum bolts to lock them to the handlebar for $8 ... for that kind of price you can't go wrong ... most if not all bike manufacturers will fit standard bikes with cheap grips ... simply change them out by something you like more

creativepart

On the 7.5 you simply tighten the grips with the locking screws provided and they won't rotate down any more.

jddempst

Ahh...cool thanks I didn't know they come with the bike. I'm glad they do but I didn't notice them on the bike when I test rode it.

osing

i bought a cannondale quick 4 last month.
the glossy black one with white accents.
i ride anywhere between 70 - 120 miles per week.
i have no complaints about this bike.
i absolutely love it.
for only $600? well worth it!

to be fair, i believe that the trek 7.3fx (not the 7.5fx) is a closer match to the cannondale quick 4.

megarot

I had a 7.3 fx (before it got stolen) with Deore components. I liked it very well and did well on the Chicago city streets.

I hear you when you say that you are low on cash and need to make a good investment. I don't know if the Trek frame and components are worth the extra $300 but if this is an investment and a bike you're going to be using a lot -especially if saving money via commuting on bike etc - then I say go with the bike with the better components. If it's more recreational you might be just fine with the lower components as you may not be using it quite as much.

But why not do a craigslist search and see if you can find one used? A lot of times it can be a big $$ saver if it's in good condition.

up4speed

The Trek grips have allen head screws on both the inside and outside of the grip. Look carefully and you will see them. If you look underneath, you will also see a gauge on the outside of the grip, so you can match the angles of the left and right grips perfectly, nice touch!! With the allen bolts tightened on the inside and outside of the grip, they should be rock solid, and never twist. The only disadvantage of this 2011 design, is that you can't install bar ends on the factory bars because of their shape. The ends are flattened, and filled with a gel pad to make them round again under the grip. This is done for comfort, but no end bars can be installed. I only have about 30 miles on my new Trek 7.5FX, but I'm enjoying it so far!