zmensing

Finally got around to putting the finishing touches on the Koga-Miyata FullPro frame I purchased last year. Just needs some bartape and it'll be ready to go. All in all, very happy with the build, though of course need to ride it fully first.

Did have one question for any experts out there: When the chain is on the inner chain ring, it rubs ever so slightly on the inner plate of the FD. The adjustment to the inside is maxed out. It's close enough that when the bike leans one way it's fine, and the other it rubs a little. I could put the 7800 crank on from the rest of the set, but I think the 7700 looks nicer with the frame. Advice on that or anything else appreciated.

Anyway, rest of the build is as follows:

1991 Koga-Miyata FullPro Ex-Tulip frame
Mavic Open Pro wheels with Ultegra hubs
7800 Brifters, brakes, derailleurs, cassette, chain
7700 pedals and crank
Thomson elite seat post, Selle Stratos saddle
FSA K-wing compact carbon bars
Orbea Zeus stem
Nokon housing

And of course, pictures!

















Thanks for looking!

DiegoFrogs

Your chainring bolts are on backwards. I don't think that'll fix the problem, though.

You could try swapping in a larger bottom bracket.

zmensing

Thanks for the catch. They came that way when I bought it and I had wondered.

wrk101

+1 Longer BB, or if you have plenty of clearance on the non-drive crank arm, you could try a shim on the drive side (they come in several sizes, LBS should have them). Sounds like you are really close, where a 1mm or 2mm shim could do the trick.

zmensing

Thanks for the shim advice, there seems to be plenty of space on the non-drive side, so that should work well. I think I even have a shim sitting around that should fit.

Elev12k

Great machine! Funny to see the sticker of a local bike shop still present on the toptube. I wouldn't remove it. Is the seat positioned at the right height now?

I had similar issue with a XC Pro equipped bike. I where able to solve it through switching the two adjuster screws. It is another system however, so I doubt whether it will work here.

zmensing

Seat could probably come up a little bit, but I'll wait to ride it and see. I'm new to clipless pedals, so have just gone out in the yard while holding onto a tree so far. The frame's also on the big size for me, so seat will probably stay a little lower. Today will have more time to be more adventurous and get used to them.
Thanks for the bike shop info about the sticker. I had tried translating it, but hadn't tried a simple google search yet apparently! Are they a pretty big shop?

Giacomo 1 

Great looking build.

Those Dura Ace bits look really nice and I like the brake cables to. The stem/handlebar combo looks abit different. I'm not sure I've seen a combination like it before. What brand are they? But it looks like it will have you stretched out over the bars quite abit. You might think of swapping them out for something shorter though since you say the frame is alitltle big for you. It would shorten things up and maybe make you more comfortable. Just a thought...

Drakonchik

Whatever part of the FD is bottoming out, if that part is reachable you could file it down a tad. Removing a little metal will give a smidge more travel in the cage, in a close case it could be enough to eliminate the rub.

Elev12k

Yes, we can consider them a big shop. Not only in racing or off road, but also in Dutch bikes, randonneur, touring, electric bikes and so on. Back in the day the shop often purchased old team equipment: PDM Concorde, TVM Zullo, Panasonic, Batavus AMEV ...and of course your Tulip Koga.

buldogge

Looks great...I thought twice about this bike when Mel had it on offer...

Why the threadless adapter? Needs one of the cool Dura-Ace stems and silver non-ergo bars...with white tape of course.

How's the ride???

toytech

Stunning paint! who makes the cable housing?

Suburban Grind

Fantastic bike. I have a 92 American market Team Miyata counterpart.

Is the rear brake cable housing routed internally through the top tube, making it an 87 - 90 model? What's the stock rear dropout width - was it intended for a freewheel or freehub? And, it appears yours has the number hanger brazed-in boss on the bottom front of the top tube; does it also come with the bottle basement braze-on and the chain hanger pin on the inside of the DS seat stay?

I also wonder, why the threadless stem? Besides bulfogge's recomendation for a Dura Ace threaded stem, a Cinelli or Nitto would also be complimentary to a nice 26.0mm aluminum road bar.

Suburban Grind

And a reply to the question for the experts (I'm hardly that),
　
The 7700 does look nicer with the frame. I'm also running Dura Ace 7700 crank and Octalink V1 Dura Ace 7700 bottom bracket on my Team model. With a pair of 2mm thick bottom bracket spacers on the drive side only, mine gets just enough small chainring clearance from the drive side chain stay to make this 190+ lb rider feel comfortable about 100 percent standing input on the cranks. That gives about 2.5 - 3.0 mm clearance from the chainstay (static), and in that position the inner limit on the front derailleur still has a little adjustment left. Without the spacers, teeth on the inner chainring hit the chainstay.

You also seem to have the FD mounted ever so slightly too high, but correcting that probably won't solve the chain rubbing problem in the small chainring.

I was also going to comment on how your seat stays don't look nearly as tapered and as wide at the top as the ones on my 92, I wonder is this a difference between Koga and the American market models or changes that were implemented as "progress" where frame development blended in more stiffness and control at the expense of comfort and endurance?

zmensing

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions! I've tried to answer questions below:

Thanks a lot! I think you're probably right about the stem. Finally got a chance to ride it, and it does stretch me out a bit. The reason for the stem/bar combo was that I got a lot of the parts for the bike from a broken CF frame (the dura ace, stem, seat, bars, seatpost, Nokon housing), so it had high end carbon parts. The stem is an Orbea Zeus, and the bars are FSA K-wing carbon compacts.

Cable housings are from Nokon. They're normally mono-color, but I needed a bit of an extension, so I went with red to compliment the rest of the frame finish.

Ride seems really great! Very solid, responsive. Sadly, it started raining literally as I headed out the door for the test ride, so I had to cut it a bit short and didn't go too hard. Only bad thing is that I can hear the brake cable rattle a little in the internal routing when I hit bumps.

Rear brake routed internally. The spacing is 130mm in the back I believe, I didn't actually measure, but the 10-speed ultegra hubs fit great. The Koga catalogs put it as a 1991, though as it's a team bike, might have been from 1990? Not sure how that works. No bottle basement, but does have the chain hanger. See comments above for the threadless explanation. No idea about the seat stay tapering, interesting thought though about the reasons. I did end up going with a shim for the BB, I had a 1mm or so on hand, and that seems to have helped already, though I might get another one that's a bit wider to give some extra lee-way.

orbeamike

ditch the stem and find yourself a nice silver quill. This bike deserves it!

Elev12k

Interesting. My 1990 FullPro has the same caps. It looks like I see them appearing in the 1993 Miyata catalogue, but it is not easy to see. Kogas and Miyatas weren't 100% identical. Of course paint and graphics differed, but also in detailling both brands opted for other solutions often. Moreover there were unique to one brand frames, like the early 80's Koga FullPro-L bikes and the Koga Max tubing frame in the 90s.

zmensing

I agree, it's really interesting to see some of the similarities and differences between the two brands. For instance, the paint on these K-M 1991 FullPro and Pros (the "snake skin") seemed to make it on the next model year Miyata 914/916, though only in blue, versus the blue and red of the K-M bikes. Does anyone have any additional insight (Elev12K) about how such connections between the companies worked?

zmensing

Just a quick update. Got a shorter stem, finally wrapped the bars, and took care of the other things you guys mentioned. "Final" picture now.

KonAaron Snake 

Awful...you should sell it to me immediately.

Kanegon

My 1st thought also, but to each his own -- cockpit!

Oregon Southpaw

Harlan

My thoughts exactly. I hate to say it but a seat slammed all the way forward on a zero setback seatpost with a short stem raised up so high means that the bike doesn't fit, and isn't really that close to fitting.

zmensing

Psh, I had a good 1/4 inch before that seat was slammed forward FWIW, after going on the first longer ride since completing the build today, the seat was definitely too far forward, so it's now much more centered on the rails. I'm well aware that the frame is bigger than ideal for me. If any of you see one in a 58, please let me know. Until then, I'll keep riding and loving this one, and using tools like a shorter stem to cut some corners into that round hole.

egee

Love the lava look of the bike