Where to start upgrading?
#1
Where to start upgrading?
I bought a cheap fixed gear bike (not a Pure Fix, but similar), and plan to slowly upgrade it as I can afford to. My first purchase was a new saddle because the stock one was extremely uncomfortable.
I want to start with areas of the bike I will get the most bang for my buck. Where will I most notice my upgrades?
I want to start with areas of the bike I will get the most bang for my buck. Where will I most notice my upgrades?
#3
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,287
Likes: 837
Saddle, tires and then put all that cash into a piggy bank for a completely better bike. Replace parts as they wear out, any upgrades for the sake of improved performance are going to generally be a waste of money.
If you do insist, probably the wheels.
If you do insist, probably the wheels.
#5
my idea is to slowly turn this into a new higher quality bike. but in the meantime at least have something to ride. ideally i'd like to end up with no original parts. or at least very few.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 0
Well it really depends on your riding preferences. If it comes stock with track drops, you probably want to switch them out asap. Or maybe it's a short distance bike and you only want risers on there, or you're going long distances and want some road drops.
The good thing is solid bars don't cost that much and should last forever.
The good thing is solid bars don't cost that much and should last forever.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
as always there are 290381 threads about upgrading low cost bikes and we always say that you should only upgrade when a part wears out, break or feel uncomfortable. That's the best bang for your buck.
Last edited by 8bits; 09-09-12 at 06:58 PM.
#17
Unless it is the brakes that brake. In which case they are doing their job.
#20
The space coyote lied.



Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 48,684
Likes: 10,956
From: dusk 'til dawn.
Bikes: everywhere
If I got a cheap bike I'd probably replace saddle and pedals immediately. Maybe bars too if stocker bars really sucked bad. I might replace tires when I got the dough, keep stock tires as backup.
#21
:)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,391
Likes: 1
From: duluth
Bikes: '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
Upgrade what's broken, uncomfortable, or close to breaking. Otherwise ride your bike and enjoy life.
#22
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Boston
Bikes: blkmrkt nsf / GT ZR 3.0 (custom build) / Kona Dawg (custom)
Seems a bit overly complicated for what should just be 'simple upgrades'. Labor costs at shops will be roughly equal to the parts being upgraded (and I doubt OP has the necessary tools for this himself). Personal recommendation, upgrade the saddle, then pedals and bars to suit what you think is comfortable. Then ride the **** out of it. If you'd like a nicer bike, buy/build one and use what you've learned from this before wasting your money.
#24
Nothing complicated about upgrading parts that are loose ball bearing (most likely) to sealed cartridge bearing components. Take it to lbs, buy component, pay small installation fee. Upgrading a saddle is a lot more complicated (if you want to put it that way) because you actually have to find one that you like and fit.
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Boston
Bikes: blkmrkt nsf / GT ZR 3.0 (custom build) / Kona Dawg (custom)
I see your point there. I'm fully imagining that the OP has a Thruster at this point, trying to spare the unnecessary agony of spunking cash into a cheap bike on parts you can't take with you onto another build



