9 Speed Chain + 10 Speed Cassette =
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
9 Speed Chain + 10 Speed Cassette =
I put a 10 speed Campy wheel on a bike with a 9 speed Shimano chain, and old Campy SR friction shifters and derailleurs, and I expected it to not work very well. I wasn't sure that the chain would fit the sprockets without rubbing or even worse, getting stuck and seizing.
What I found instead was complete silence and smooth shifting. I expected it to be fussy at the least, but it wasn't at all. The only thing I couldn't do was get it onto the largest sprocket as I ran out of swing on the shifter. Front shifting worked fine also.
I guess you never know what will work until you try.
What I found instead was complete silence and smooth shifting. I expected it to be fussy at the least, but it wasn't at all. The only thing I couldn't do was get it onto the largest sprocket as I ran out of swing on the shifter. Front shifting worked fine also.
I guess you never know what will work until you try.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Campy 10-speed cassette cogs are spaced slightly wider than Shimano's and a 9-speed Shimano chain does work well with them. When Campy first introduced 10-speed and it's very problematic chain, many riders reported using Shimano 9-speed chains with good results to avoid the Campy chain.
BTW. I'm surprised your shifters won't cover the full cassette range. Try shifting into the smallest cog, disconnect the shift cable at the rear derailleur and pull ALL the slack from the cable. Tighten the clamp bolt and that should do it. Otherwise be sure your low limit screw isn't set too tight as that will also prevent reaching the largest cog.
BTW. I'm surprised your shifters won't cover the full cassette range. Try shifting into the smallest cog, disconnect the shift cable at the rear derailleur and pull ALL the slack from the cable. Tighten the clamp bolt and that should do it. Otherwise be sure your low limit screw isn't set too tight as that will also prevent reaching the largest cog.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I didn't look at the adjustments on the derailleur yet, so you are probably right.
This bike will be my "ride laps in the park" bike. I doubt I'll be taking it on any serious rides. It is old time Columbus SL tubing, pantograph Campy parts, old Concor saddle, Modolo Kronos levers. I replaced the brake cables on this thing a month or two back and was amazed that the brakes actually work now. This bike has always had sucky brakes. I'm the original owner of this bike from 1981.
The original wheels, and one original Clement Criterium Seta tire are still with me, but the 6 speed freewheel didn't work well with the 9sp chain.
This bike will be my "ride laps in the park" bike. I doubt I'll be taking it on any serious rides. It is old time Columbus SL tubing, pantograph Campy parts, old Concor saddle, Modolo Kronos levers. I replaced the brake cables on this thing a month or two back and was amazed that the brakes actually work now. This bike has always had sucky brakes. I'm the original owner of this bike from 1981.
The original wheels, and one original Clement Criterium Seta tire are still with me, but the 6 speed freewheel didn't work well with the 9sp chain.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Be a bit careful with those, particularly the crank. The pantograph engraving acted as stress raisers and they tended to crack under load after some use.
I expect the 6-speed freewheel never worked all that well even with it's OEM chain but we didn't know any better at the time. Modern index shifting with the accompanying shaped and enhanced cogs and chainrings is so good it has spoiled us and we forget how ragged shifting was in the past.
I expect the 6-speed freewheel never worked all that well even with it's OEM chain but we didn't know any better at the time. Modern index shifting with the accompanying shaped and enhanced cogs and chainrings is so good it has spoiled us and we forget how ragged shifting was in the past.
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
Be a bit careful with those, particularly the crank. The pantograph engraving acted as stress raisers and they tended to crack under load after some use.
I expect the 6-speed freewheel never worked all that well even with it's OEM chain but we didn't know any better at the time. Modern index shifting with the accompanying shaped and enhanced cogs and chainrings is so good it has spoiled us and we forget how ragged shifting was in the past.
I expect the 6-speed freewheel never worked all that well even with it's OEM chain but we didn't know any better at the time. Modern index shifting with the accompanying shaped and enhanced cogs and chainrings is so good it has spoiled us and we forget how ragged shifting was in the past.
#6
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,979
Likes: 1,154
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
I didn't forget. I've been saying the same thing for a while myself. Modern shifting has improved more because of the ramps on the cogs and the close spacing than the indexed levers. Even friction shifters work better with modern cassettes. I've argued that we wouldn't have indexing if the cassettes had been improved first.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I'm not saying I don't like indexing, but would we have arrived here if they had made friction shifting better? I'm not so sure. I've thought the indexing was the answer to the poor shifting of the old cassettes. It is probably both though.
I also like fingertip shifting. Riding downtube bikes after riding my Chorus 10 setup is a bit of a pain. I keep tapping the brake lever.
I also like fingertip shifting. Riding downtube bikes after riding my Chorus 10 setup is a bit of a pain. I keep tapping the brake lever.
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I'm more worried that if I could get it onto the 10th cog it would hit the spokes. I'll play around with the limit screws and if I can make it work, great. If not, well then I have a 26 tooth cog that acts as a spacer. I even have a hanger adjustment tool, if it turns out that I want to align it.
I took it for another spin last night and it works great and the 10th cog is unnecessary around here anyway.
I took it for another spin last night and it works great and the 10th cog is unnecessary around here anyway.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
badger_biker
Classic & Vintage
120
08-01-12 04:41 AM
Barchettaman
Bicycle Mechanics
6
02-02-12 11:57 AM







