Which cog/ring would you choose?
#1
Thread Starter
Arizona Dessert

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From: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Which cog/ring would you choose?
These are all basically the same ratio:
41x14
43x15
47x16
49x17
Al
41x14
43x15
47x16
49x17
Al
#3
possible selection criteria:
a) availability of parts
2) number of skid patches
iii) spreading out the wear
i would pick the combination easiest to obtain - z.b. i have a 17-tooth cog already, all i need is the chainring (although of course cogs are less expensive than chainrings).
a) availability of parts
2) number of skid patches
iii) spreading out the wear
i would pick the combination easiest to obtain - z.b. i have a 17-tooth cog already, all i need is the chainring (although of course cogs are less expensive than chainrings).
#4
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Arizona Dessert

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From: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Originally Posted by cicadashell
possible selection criteria:
a) availability of parts
2) number of skid patches
iii) spreading out the wear
i would pick the combination easiest to obtain - z.b. i have a 17-tooth cog already, all i need is the chainring (although of course cogs are less expensive than chainrings).
a) availability of parts
2) number of skid patches
iii) spreading out the wear
i would pick the combination easiest to obtain - z.b. i have a 17-tooth cog already, all i need is the chainring (although of course cogs are less expensive than chainrings).
I already have a 14 cog, but don't think it would be wise to go with a 41 chainring as it may be limiting.
So I guess it boils down between 43 and 47 where I could get use out of the 14 with 43.
I made this handy chart to help me figure out skid patches and equivalent ratios:
Al
#12
hang up your boots
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From: San Francisco
Bikes: 84 Pinarello, Trek Liquid 30, Torker CX 24, Gromada Track
also this is for one foot only, if you skid with different foot, you can double your spots
#13
Thread Starter
Arizona Dessert

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From: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Originally Posted by ostro
also this is for one foot only, if you skid with different foot, you can double your spots
I'm leaning toward a 43 ring. Right now I converted an old bike resulting in 40x14, but for a variety of reasons I (unfortunately) need to change the cranks, so I'm using this as an opportunity to pick a good size chainring.
I wonder why 48x16 is so oft recommended as it has the worst skid spot? I guess 48 chainrings are more common.
Al
#14
Originally Posted by noisebeam
I picked 41, 43, 47, 49 because with the exception of 49x14 these four chainrings all result in the number of skid patches equal to the number of cog teeth (at least for cogs 12-18).Al
#15
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Arizona Dessert

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From: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Originally Posted by cicadashell
i noticed that; they are all prime. nice chart! i still listed skid patches as a possible criterion because some persons might feel that 17 is a lot more than 14 (or, for the ambidextrous, 34 is even greater than 28).
Al
#16
hang up your boots
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From: San Francisco
Bikes: 84 Pinarello, Trek Liquid 30, Torker CX 24, Gromada Track
Originally Posted by noisebeam
I wonder why 48x16 is so oft recommended as it has the worst skid spot? I guess 48 chainrings are more common.
Al
#18
SuperstitiousHyperrealist

Joined: May 2004
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From: Boston
Bikes: unknown road conversion, half built Benotto track
It would be really cool to collect really interesting/helpful things like this and jimv's post and keep them somewhere. Every so often really good, well thought out posts appear and after the thread dies it takes me forever to find them. Well, I guess that's my own problem.
But still it would be nice.
But still it would be nice.
#19
********

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Bikes: vintage schwinn speedster, Soma Rush, Centurion Accordo fixie convertion, lotus eclair conversion, univega sport tandem
Originally Posted by jinx_removing
It would be really cool to collect really interesting/helpful things like this and jimv's post and keep them somewhere. Every so often really good, well thought out posts appear and after the thread dies it takes me forever to find them. Well, I guess that's my own problem.
But still it would be nice.
But still it would be nice.
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 452
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally Posted by ostro
also this is for one foot only, if you skid with different foot, you can double your spots
#23
King of the Hipsters
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
All skidding aside, I have a mechanical intuition that larger chainring and sprocket pairs have lower stresses and greater efficiencies.
I say intuition because I can't prove it with numbers.
However, for a given ratio between front and rear, it seems that the smaller the number of teeth the less mechanically elegant the system.
Secondly, how much of a rear tooth spread will one chain and horizontal dropouts support?
If each tooth in the rear cog moves the axle one eighth of an inch forward, going from 13t to 21t involves one inch of travel (assuming 1/8" per tooth).
Not that anyone would do that.
Still, what tooth spread represents a reasonable spread, say on a fixed fixed hub that one wanted to flip over with the same chain?
Does the size of the gear pairs matter in all of this?
For myself, building my winter bike (with 38mm tires), a 43t chainring and 15t and 17t cog on a fixed fixed hub would serve me well, if it has the same mechanical efficiency as say a 49X17X19 combination, which has almost the same numerical ratios.
And, by the way, the chainring and cog combinations above give me the same gear inches on a 38mm tire as I presently have on my 48X16X18 with 23mm tires.
I say intuition because I can't prove it with numbers.
However, for a given ratio between front and rear, it seems that the smaller the number of teeth the less mechanically elegant the system.
Secondly, how much of a rear tooth spread will one chain and horizontal dropouts support?
If each tooth in the rear cog moves the axle one eighth of an inch forward, going from 13t to 21t involves one inch of travel (assuming 1/8" per tooth).
Not that anyone would do that.
Still, what tooth spread represents a reasonable spread, say on a fixed fixed hub that one wanted to flip over with the same chain?
Does the size of the gear pairs matter in all of this?
For myself, building my winter bike (with 38mm tires), a 43t chainring and 15t and 17t cog on a fixed fixed hub would serve me well, if it has the same mechanical efficiency as say a 49X17X19 combination, which has almost the same numerical ratios.
And, by the way, the chainring and cog combinations above give me the same gear inches on a 38mm tire as I presently have on my 48X16X18 with 23mm tires.
#25
Originally Posted by Ken Cox
All skidding aside, I have a mechanical intuition that larger chainring and sprocket pairs have lower stresses and greater efficiencies. I say intuition because I can't prove it with numbers.
Does the size of the gear pairs matter in all of this?




