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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Anyone wanna trade ? No cash offers, or "for sale" if you want to keep this thread

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Old 03-23-06 | 03:48 PM
  #851  
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From: minneapolis
edit: got one! thanks sbeaton.

Last edited by ink1373; 03-26-06 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 03-23-06 | 05:23 PM
  #852  
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From: PGH
Lookin for: lower end track rear wheel. Formula would be preferable, as would fix/fix. For a beater.

Have: what do you need?
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Old 03-23-06 | 05:26 PM
  #853  
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From: san francisco
have: size M woolistic MASI sweater, (they don't make 'em anymore).
want: cool old track stuff
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Old 03-23-06 | 05:41 PM
  #854  
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From: SF
Have: Brooks Colt Saddle in Black and never used.

Want: Rear track hub in perfect condition (Campy, Phil, DA) can be low flange.
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Old 03-23-06 | 06:09 PM
  #855  
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From: Long Beach, CA

Bikes: Bianchi Advantage Fixed Conversion; Specialized Stumpjumper FS Hardtail

Have: Nice, never used specialized road stem. Its LONG, i think about 135mm. I still have the box it came in. I put it on my bike for about a minute until i realized that it would have my nose rubbing the tire, so I never even put a bar in it. If you're interested, i can post pictures and other details.

Want: What do you got? 80mm stem, moustache bars, decent straight bar, 165mm cranks... make me an offer.
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Old 03-23-06 | 07:02 PM
  #856  
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Here's a longshot:

Have: new, never mounted 05/06 Miche crankset with 49t ring, 165mm with bb
Want: same but 175mm, or something equivalent (sugino?) brand new

Somebody buy a crankset by mistake and just keep it?

I saw myself in a window riding (my 170s) today and noticed that my thigh never even comes anywhere near approaching level when I'm pedaling. I know my cranks are too short, but who's got some 190s for me? Since the new frame has a higher bb, I don't really need 165s.
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Old 03-24-06 | 08:27 AM
  #857  
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From: chicago
want:
16t cog for formula hub (i.e. no phil or campy)
47t 144bcd chainring
both should be in good/excellent condition

have:
stuff i've posted here before - 200mm cf tioga seatpost, 80s selle italia turbo (good condition, barely used), and the campy pedals which will most likely be going on ebay
soon

contact:
thisisforever at gmail.com
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Old 03-24-06 | 01:25 PM
  #858  
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Originally Posted by transplant
want:
16t cog for formula hub (i.e. no phil or campy)
uh oh, now you're making me paranoid. I thought I knew this for sure:

isn't the cog threading on all standard track hubs the same, Italian, US and Japanese? Isn't it just that the lockring threading on Italians and Phils (and yet another for Mavic) different? Italian l/rs definitely won't work on standard lockring threads.

Somebody chime in, I'm about to buy an 18t cog for an Italian hub.
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Old 03-24-06 | 01:33 PM
  #859  
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From: san francisco

Bikes: 74 paramount track, 80s maruishi track, 70s chesini track.

i think it's that different hubs have the same threading, only some are more touchy and finicky than others. hence it's best to pair manufacturers when pairing cogs and hubs. phil hub = phil cog, dura ace hub = dura ace cog, etc. i don't think the threading is too different where a phil cog totally cannot go on a dura ace or campy, but i think the threadings are just a touch different. (disclaimer, i have always only ridden on my couple of wheelsets and haven't much experience with other brands, so i might be way off).
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Old 03-24-06 | 01:37 PM
  #860  
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SF ONLY: anyone want to trade 38cm chromo/steel nitto b-123s for my aluminum ones in almost brand new condition?

The aluminum bars cost more but I'm willing to take the hit for a set in good condition.

37 or 38 cm b-123s in similar condition only please! thank you
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Old 03-24-06 | 02:04 PM
  #861  
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From: LA

Bikes: track bikes, etc

Originally Posted by onlythebest
SF ONLY: anyone want to trade 38cm chromo/steel nitto b-123s for my aluminum ones in almost brand new condition?

The aluminum bars cost more but I'm willing to take the hit for a set in good condition.

37 or 38 cm b-123s in similar condition only please! thank you
this is crazy...
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Old 03-24-06 | 02:10 PM
  #862  
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Originally Posted by ieatrats
uh oh, now you're making me paranoid. I thought I knew this for sure:

isn't the cog threading on all standard track hubs the same, Italian, US and Japanese? Isn't it just that the lockring threading on Italians and Phils (and yet another for Mavic) different? Italian l/rs definitely won't work on standard lockring threads.

Somebody chime in, I'm about to buy an 18t cog for an Italian hub.
Cogs are fine and relatively universal. It's the lockrings that matter. I have EAI's on my Phils, Campy's and DA hubs but only the DA runs a DA lockring while the others use Phil lockrings.
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Old 03-24-06 | 02:38 PM
  #863  
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From: Ottawa

Bikes: '85 Full Cycle Cycle.

I know Surly (and other) cogs are 1 thread per mm (ISO). Phil Wood cogs are 24 threads per inch, which works out to 1.058 threads per mm. It's not a very big difference but still big enough that I wouldn't mix ISO and 24tpi if I had the chance.
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Old 03-24-06 | 03:08 PM
  #864  
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From: calipornia
Originally Posted by absntr
Cogs are fine and relatively universal. It's the lockrings that matter. I have EAI's on my Phils, Campy's and DA hubs but only the DA runs a DA lockring while the others use Phil lockrings.
some cogs straight up dont fit on my miche hubs..i think the rule is you can go iso to the other.. but not the other way around.. cept i can never remember what direction works..
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Old 03-24-06 | 03:17 PM
  #865  
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Originally Posted by sloppy robot
some cogs straight up dont fit on my miche hubs..i think the rule is you can go iso to the other.. but not the other way around.. cept i can never remember what direction works..
Which ones, and whose do you run? I'm building up a set of Miches, dunno if I'm going to spring like $50 cdn on an EAI anyway...

I just kind of don't want to use the Miche carrier/cog system. Like, how do you really tighten down the carrier? Can't rota fix it, can't chainwhip it.
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Old 03-24-06 | 03:30 PM
  #866  
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Originally Posted by ieatrats
Which ones, and whose do you run? I'm building up a set of Miches, dunno if I'm going to spring like $50 cdn on an EAI anyway...

I just kind of don't want to use the Miche carrier/cog system. Like, how do you really tighten down the carrier? Can't rota fix it, can't chainwhip it.

I have used suntour, shimano, EAI and a bunch of no-name generic cogs on my Miche hub with no problems. Don't sweat it.
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Old 03-24-06 | 04:29 PM
  #867  
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weird.. maybe it was a bad cog.. i thought it was off a different hub though.. i cant remember... i still have it.. its useless self just stares at me..its def. a silver generic thing.
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Old 03-24-06 | 04:50 PM
  #868  
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Say NO to GENERIC and Low tolerances!
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Old 03-24-06 | 11:34 PM
  #869  
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From: Montreal

Bikes: Bianchi vigorelli

No. Cogs are not totally interchangeable.

I thought this awhile ago, until I picked up a cog made to precise tolerances. A british thread is "tighter" than italian thread. Most folks are running british (ISO) thread hubs : DA, suntour, formula, surly, with british thread cogs, in the rare event, some people stumble on a campy or miche cog and spin one on. works fine.

NOT the other way around. This doesn't get spoken of much as most people with italian hubs, have italian thread cogs. A british thread cog will thread on, with much force, and as a result, dull down the threads on an italian thread hub. I just picked up a used beater wheelset, campy hubs with a suntour superbe cog cranked on there. threads were chewed up and dulled from the steel cog. hub threads are almost a write off.

in short:
ISO HUB + IT COG = OK
IT HUB + ISO COG = Not OK
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Old 03-25-06 | 10:40 AM
  #870  
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From: Gainesville, FL

Bikes: Villin custom touring, Medici Pro Pista, KHS Alite1000, Windsor fixed commuter

Originally Posted by absntr
Say NO to GENERIC and Low tolerances!

That said, I will eat the **** out of some Marshmallow Matey's.
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Old 03-25-06 | 10:46 AM
  #871  
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Thanks for droppin' the knowledge Sloppy and Trackasaurus. Always good to be schooled.
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Old 03-25-06 | 05:30 PM
  #872  
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From: st paul, mn
Have:
CroMo Nitto B123s in 42 cm
Set of NIB silver formula 32h hubs with 2 lockrings

Want:
~57 cm Track Frame
Decent quality bullhorns
18 & 19 tooth cogs
????
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Old 03-26-06 | 10:35 PM
  #873  
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Originally Posted by trackasaurus
No. Cogs are not totally interchangeable.

I thought this awhile ago, until I picked up a cog made to precise tolerances. A british thread is "tighter" than italian thread. Most folks are running british (ISO) thread hubs : DA, suntour, formula, surly, with british thread cogs, in the rare event, some people stumble on a campy or miche cog and spin one on. works fine.

NOT the other way around. This doesn't get spoken of much as most people with italian hubs, have italian thread cogs. A british thread cog will thread on, with much force, and as a result, dull down the threads on an italian thread hub. I just picked up a used beater wheelset, campy hubs with a suntour superbe cog cranked on there. threads were chewed up and dulled from the steel cog. hub threads are almost a write off.

in short:
ISO HUB + IT COG = OK
IT HUB + ISO COG = Not OK
thanks for the info, it's much appreciated.
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Old 03-27-06 | 05:31 AM
  #874  
re:member
 
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From: Cracow, Poland

Bikes: unknown make TT bike, fixed; Romet Sport, gone; titanium Pinarello gone;Colnago with Campy C-Record/Super Record,on it's way; Funny Gianni Motta; Buehler track, Polrad track chrome; titanium MTB on 28'', fixed; Tri Wheeler, fixed

Yes, you can. Just put a cog on it before tightening. The real problem is that the lockring presses against the cog (it is a tiny wee bit wider than the carrier, it has to be that way) so the play which inevitably develops in cog-carrier interface will eventually lead to losening the carrier and possibly stripping the threads.
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Old 03-27-06 | 10:39 AM
  #875  
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: World

Bikes: 1983 Bianchi Eco Pista

Want: A vintage quill drop stem. Nothing fancy... just anything that works and isn't completely gross looking. Would like it at 100mm length w/ 22.2 interior diameter (1" threaded steerer of course), and at a 65 degree angle.... but still respond if you have other options.

Have: Stock Fuji Track '06 stem and a whole bunch of pre-conversion parts off of my Puch 130. Pedals, full cranks, 0 rise stem, brakes (front and back), ect.

E-mail me at DoshKel@gmail.com or PM ehere if you want to work something out. Thanks a lot .
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