I have considered a carbon fiber compact double but prefer an alloy crank. Is
the FSA GOSSAMER MEGAEXO COMPACT CRANKSET with oversize cartridge bearing BB considered one of the best valued compact doubles out there? Does anybody have one on the board and if so, what are your impressions?

Here is a link to the Gossamer:
https://www.bikesmart.com/index.cfm?m....99&StartRow=1

Thanks for your comments.
George

i love FSA cranks. I have the Compact MegaEXO and love it. Its on my TT bike and works great. Very stiff, very fluid. I would have got another for my beater if I hadn't scored a DA9 gruppo for $300. That's a good crank, but I would take my FSA over it. oh well.

Thanks Zakk...was wondering if the Gossamer was the one to get or is there another alloy FSA model that may be worth upgrading to? Looking for a nice clean compact...understated...not high bling.
Zakk...what is up with the dust cap at the center of chainring/crank spindle on the FSA? Seems as though there is a hole where a dust cap is normally present. Is this the same for the non-drive side crank as well? I appreciate your comments.
Thanks,
George

FYI, there are 3 models of Gossamer; the double, the triple and the compact. Each of these models also comes in a "MegaExo" version which has outboard bearings and integrated bottom bracket, so make sure you know which one you want. I recommend the MegaExo version. As for the "dust cap", you are referring to the MegaExo version; there is a preload cap on the left side that is tightened to push the crank up against the bearing, then the main crank bolts on the end of the crank actually keep the crank on (see picture below.) If viewed from the drive side, the shaft is hollow.

+1

dead on.

I'm very happy with my compact double. Saves my legs for the run.

For what it's worth... I just ordered one of THESE .

The price was really good and I didn't want to spend the extra cash of the MegaExo, despite the positive reviews of it. If you're looking for a basic ISIS Compact Crank, this looked like the best deal to me after I did some shopping around.

I'll be here on Friday!!!

Thanks for your comments Ben. I too am disposed toward the MegaExo BB...like that bearing design the best. The dust cap arrangement is still unclear without seeing one in person. The picture shows only an oblique view without any detail as to the interior of the dust cap or end plug. Are the crank bolts physically exposed on the interior of hollow cap? How about the non-drive side?
Anybody have a straight on pic?
Thanks,
George

Much like with a threadless headset, once the assembly is preloaded and the cinch clamps on the non-driveside crankarm is tightened, there is no need for the preload cap and I've seen bikes with them removed... leaving a see-through spindle.

Here's a bike with the FSA G-2 MegaExo crank.

The picture above shows the hollow shaft on the drive side. This shaft is indeed hollow all the way to the other side. FSA's installation procedure (summarized) is to install both bearing cups, then slide the crank shaft through both cups. The right crank is integrated with the shaft, so the only thing left to do is to install the left (non drive side) crank. After sliding the crank onto the shaft, you screw a small cap that is similar to a dust cap which pushes the left side crank onto the shaft and against the outboard bearing. There are 2 allen bolts at the end of the crank (opposite of the pedal end) that are visible in the picture. These are then torqed and installation is complete. The hollow shaft replaces the old solid shaft in square taper/Octalink/ISIS bottom brackets. The black thing you see in between the 2 silver BB cups is just a dust cover; the shaft is inside. When I get home I'll email you some pictures.

For those wondering what the "MegaExo" hype is about, the picture below illustrates how much bigger the bearings are versus a standard ISIS crank. The top BB is standard ISIS, the one below is a FSA "Howitzer" bottom bracket for those with nice ISIS cranks who would like to get the benefits of MegaExo technology. Which would you rather ride with?

I found a picture I posted earlier. Here is the FSA Gossamer MegaExo compact on my fixie. You can see the crank arm bolts near the end and the cap. If you took it off, the shaft would be hollow and you could see all the way through.

I can let you know what I think of it in a couple days. My Gossamer compact w/MegaExo BB shipped yesterday. I'll be watching for the UPS guy tomorrow...

Biker7, if you want a silver alloy crank Truvativ makes one. Ironically, according the german tour magazine the alloy version is stiffer and 4g lighter than the CF version. Who cares about the weight, but is intersting that the aluminum version is stiffer.

I'd get the black, but I think over time shoe scuffs would wear away the black finish? What does everyone else think?


Here is a picture of a Truvative Rouleur GXP with external bearings. It's a little pricey $225 with BB, but this one can be had in a 177.5 length (I'm used to 180mm)

If you like black rings you could always put them on after the silver wear out.

Thanks to all above. Good to put some of this on the record as much hasn't been previously explained. Ben...a terrific review of the two different BB's and the installation procedure...makes sense now. I see where the MegaExo gets its name...how appropriate....those cups are Exo or external and are Mega alright...huge. BTW...is the Q-factor/chain line affected with the MegaExo BB as the cranks I would think would need to be mounted more outboard of each side of the BB shell with those cups which house the larger cartridge bearings?

Speaking of same...does anybody know off the top if Park makes a splined tool that will engage with the MegaExo cups?...am presuming a splined spanner wrench does not come with the MegaExo....or does it?. The MegaExo cup spline... unlike the more conventional ISIS BB, looks unique to this particular BB is why I ask.

And 53...as usual we are on the same page and I too have considered heel scuff on the black crank arms. No dodging the graphic scuff issue as you know even with aluminum finish crank arms. What I do currently is cover my graphics with a clear mylar film tape...otherwise the graphics would wear off as well. My bike has a lot of black...wheels...bar tape etc...so a black crank and rings may look sweet.
Gustav be sure to share your review when you get your Gossamer w/MegaExo Compact installed. Would love to see pics as well.
George

Hey Biker,


since you will be needing a new front derialleur consider the centaur compact front derailleur as well. It's the same price ~$40 as any other centaur/veloce regular front deraileur and the radius of the rings is better matched. While I don't think this is a huge issue if you have to buy a new front derailleur why not?

I've used tape before on my parts (black electrical), but never the entire crank arm. You are right I don't see why it shouldn't work.

Anyone know where you can get the FSA G2 other than on the Specialized bike? They don't list it on their site and I haven't seen it on anyone else's either.

53...technically a compact specific front derailleur would be ideal but believe my triple Campy FD which is sized/radiused in accordance to a 52 tooth big ring and can shift down to a 30T small ring without issue would work fine with limit screw adjustments for a compact double. My FD is a seat tube clamp design and can be scooted down the tube a bit for proper adjustment/clearance to the smaller diameter compact outer ring. My thought is to first try this arangement and if shifting is less than satisfactory, I would pony up for a compact double specific FD....a couple of tooth FD cage radius/arc difference shouldn't make much difference IMO...analogy being if largest outer chain ring of my triple didn't exist the triple FD shifts fine back and forth between 42 and 30T rings respectively with a full 10-22 tooth/radius cage disagreement. Where FD cage radius sizing becomes more critical is moving in the other direction...transistioning from a compact FD back up to a full size 53-54 tooth outer chainring/FD cage radius.

Grasschopper...I sent Gustav a PM and asked him where he found his Gossamer he just ordered as I presume he found a good deal somewhere. Don't know about the G2
however.
George

Biker7 - I have seen the Gossamer several places for $150-$170 which isn't too bad when you consider it comes with the BB. The price is fine, I would prefer the silver of the G2 though. On to the tools. Park has one as does Spin Doctor

Park BBT-9
Spin Doctor

Gossamer at Speedgoat.com
Gossamer MegaEXO at AEBike
Rouleur Compact at AEBike

Thanks Grasschopper...Park BBT-9 looks like the preferred tool as it has full circumference engagement versus the Spin Doctor spanner equivalent. Ideally I would like to find a large female splined socket that would fit the MegaExo spline so I could use a torque wrench...my preference. If not, the BBT-9 would work fine. Lastly GC...do you have a pic of the FSA G2 in aluminum color? I can't find any reference to that model on the web.
Thanks,
George

Scroll up to post #8 and see the Specialized Allez photo. That is the only reference I have seen but I like it better than the black version.

Kind of an art deco version of DA
George

One note is that it isn't a compact on that bike and when Specialized does a compact (Sirrus Pro Disc) it is the black version so I am not sure there is even a G-2 compact...but I wish there was.

I ordered my Gossamer compact from Speedgoat for $160 including shipping.

https://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp...t=110&brand=91

I received my FSA Gossamer compact crank yesterday, got it installed, and went out for a short ride on a few local hills today. It feels good to have a little bit lower gearing when I need it! Shifting is just fine. I don't notice any difference. Moved the Shimano 105 derailleur down a bit to meet the big ring, adjusted the cable, took a link out of the chain, and all seems good. It feels like it offers about the same low gear as my other (Campy) bike in the 39/29 combination. I don't know how to check the gearing equivalents mathematically, but it feels about the same. I'm very happy with the quality of the crank and the detailed info that came with it. (Now, I've got to go find some hills, and some time, to see if I can get myself in shape to do some riding on a vacation to Colorado next month.)

https://www.fullcycles.com/product_in...roducts_id/279

$147.77 + shipping... that's the best price I found anywhere.

FYI, here's PARK Tool's webpage with some good pictures of outboard style crank installation.