I know that there are a good number of people running non-cartridge headsets that might not know how to repack/maintain this piece of equipment. These instructions can be applied to most non-cartridge bearing headsets, like Tange, Shimano, Campy, etc.

Tools I used:

32mm wrench, toothbrush, grease, rags, beer, pencil, allen wrench set

1. Remove stem/handlebars set-up.

2. Remove top nut on headset (32mm wrench).


3. Remove spacers (if there are any) by hand.

4. Remove top bearing cup (32mm wrench)– note: do this slowly to prevent loss of loose bearings.


5. Slide fork down slowly out of headtube. Again, do this slowly as to not lose any bearings or damage the bearing cages.


6. Wipe grease off all four surfaces that contact the bearings. Run a pencil on these surfaces to check for pitting and wear.

If contact surface is pitted, you can continue to run the current headset until it is totally useless, or replace it. Your call.

7. Clean bearings and cages (I do not remove the bearings from the races).
Use a small glass or plastic tub. Place one cage/bearing set in at a time and coat with biodegradable degreaser and let sit for a few minutes.


Things to do during this time:
-Enjoy a beer or another favorite beverage.
-Call your significant other (If you do not have a significant other, weep quietly).
-Contemplate running for the presidency of a far-off nation.
-Plan next trip to oral surgeon.
-Start a whiny thread about IRO.

After soaking, brush ‘em up (careful not to dislodge a bearing or two…or more) gently with the toothbrush to get the grease out of the cage area.
*note – you can replace the bearings/races if you wish to do so. Make sure you obtain the correct parts as per your headset manufacturer’s instructions.

8. Brush dirt/grease from threads on steer tube. Regrease as you see fit.


9. Make sure everything is dry and pretty! Regrease top race and seat the bearings. Do the same on the fork race. Grease cups (loose and seated).


10. Install fork:
Re-install top cup. Replace spacer and top nut: Hand-tighten (do not fully tighten this yet!) everything back together.


11. Check for smoothness – if not that smooth, try a little more grease…or less. Depends on how much you initially applied!

12. Once it is nice and smooth, grab your wrenches and snug up your nuts! DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. This may induce pitting over time. The fork should spin freely.



(see next post in thread for final result...)

13. Re-install stem/bars and front wheel-ready to go!


Hope this is helpful!!!

oh cute, you and kyle have matching handlebar setups.

(good post, tho. i gotta do that soon)

yeah - i liked what he ran - diff grips though

that's awesome, thanks 165

josh? time to get a job no?

ha! That's nice of you, nice and thorough too.

That **** deserves webspace with the description & pics you made doing it. I've always wondered if the aheadset gen got confused by this sort of thing, went to the lbs each time or took the time to learn it somewhere (like your tutorial!) good work

are you using the tennis ball to polish your front hub?

if that was a wiki, I would add something about considering switching to loose balls. grade 25 steel balls roll smoother and arent expensive. cages are easier to deal with but not quite so smooth. not that it ****ing matters in a headset. but still.

Don't leave that on bike forums, send it to FGG or something for the right bar.

nice add-in, generic. I might try your suggestion!

I kind of did that on accident when I was packing my bike up to head over for the last MNG. I was really happy when the fork fell out and I found out I had caged bearings...

Really [165], what are you doing putting useful stuff on here? Isn't that against the rules?

Wait until i get the BB one finished! I ran out of beer though...

forthcoming...

edit: not [165]'s article (unless he contributes it), something different, but it'll have the functionality GB mentioned. just wanted to clarify...

Crap! All I have are sealed ones now... I'd try to beat you to it...

I kind of doubt my 'here's how you use the blue loctite to keep the unit from unthreading after you partially strip the threads in your Itallian threaded frame' advice would be all that useful anyways. Or maybe it would...

I'm about to do my first cup and cone bottom bracket installation - a BB post like this one would be dope.

by tomorrow for sure.

This is an awesome guide.
I second the send-to-fgg so that this can get the attention it deserves (as well as reaching/helping maximum people blahblah). First though; fine tuning here.
Above all: thanks man, this is totally "deck" (I'm hip, I'm cool).

yeah man, that was super helpful, i am planning on doing this soon.

also, those answer riser bars, are those the 1" or 2" rise? those look really great.

165 lets see the rest of that bike.

great how to btw.

Nice one J. Very helpful for many.

Thanks! The BB tutorial would be very helpful. I got mine installed, but I need to know how to maintain it.

[165] is the best!

Nice DIY!

1" rise. I HAD a set graciously donated by sloppy robot, but someone needed them more than me for the time being. So I saw juvi-kyle with a set of these and decided I wanted a set to cut down on my own. They are nice, but the grips are taking a long-ass time to decide to not slip anymore...

Great thread, I would personally though replace the bearings on each and every service.

Grade 25 bearings are pretty cheap from places like thethirdhand.com (Loose screws) and will prevent bearing wear from damaging your headset. Only downside is that its hard to find the right retainer bearings so you'll probably have to switch loose balls.