Rides4Beer

I used the site just to get an idea of what I was looking for, then emailed them. We discussed exactly what I wanted and they sent me a link for a custom invoice to place my order with exactly what I requested. I wanted different color logos, and you can't select that on the site, but they can invoice whatever you want.

Marcus_Ti

Their site is designed to filter-out non-compatible or out-of-stock options as you go. At least that is the intent. Which is why selecting hubs other than DT hubs leads to the "36T" and "54T" boxes graying out. It could be the option you are selecting requires a hubset they only have in disc brake.

As always, eamil and ask.

MinnMan

I think I have it mostly figured out. The form cares about the order in which you make your choices, even if the choices are not connected to one another in terms of available combinations. Making a bunch of selections and then going back to see how the price changes with a different hub choice is not a good idea. I've experimented enough so that I can get off the first screen and onto the second (where spoke choices are made, etc.) and proceed far enough so that I can build a dummy quote and then email them.

Thanks

noodle soup

what are you thinking about getting?

superdex

If you work top-down, you'll get it. Note you have to hit every option (even there's only one).

MinnMan

I'm looking at the Falcon 45 mm or 55 mm deep rims, one or the other of the DT Swiss hubs, Sapim spokes.

I had just convinced myself that I didn't want to spend the coin for name-brand (e.g., HED, Zipp) wheels and also I wasn't so comfortable with going the route of ordering something direct from China via Alibaba. This seems to be a great alternative, both in terms of value and quality and also for knowing what I'm getting. The collective experience of people on this thread has helped a lot.

noodle soup

If your frameset has the room for wide tires, I'd highly recommend the 46mm or 56mm hoops. They are wider and lighter than the older design 45mm and 55mm versions.

MinnMan

I've got rim brakes (DA 7900), so I can't go too wide. I was thinking that the 25 mm wide rims with 25 mm tires (GP5000?) would be about right. I've noticed on this thread that people have had a hard time mounting the GP5000s, though.... I'm not ashamed to use tire levers, so I'm guessing that the problem is surmountable (no pun intended).

MinnMan

I should probably start a new thread for these questions, but there seems to be a fair bit of expertise in this thread, so I have 2 questions for you guys:

I've not had a set of carbon wheels before.

1. Lots of carbon wheels have that characteristic resonant buzz. In my experience, riding with others that have them, it depends on the wheels and, I think, on their depth. Those of you who have got the LB wheels, how loud is the buzz and what depth are your wheels.

2. I am currently riding a standard set of alloy clinchers (HED Ardennes). My idea is that I would likely swap between the alloy and carbon wheels, depending on what ride I'm doing (and the weather). For those of you who make similar swaps and have rim brakes, I assume you just keep the carbon-specific brake pads on for both sets of wheels?

MikeEckhaus

I don't have LB wheels, so I can't directly answer your question. On my 45mm Flo's, there is no buzzing. There is maybe a slight whooshing at higher speeds, which I think is just normal road noise echoing in the chamber inside the rim.

On your question about pads, you will want to remove your carbon specific pads if you switch back to aluminum wheels. The carbon specific pads will not work as well, last as long, and they will gather aluminum dust/shards/etc. which will then wear down your carbon brake track when you remount the carbon wheels. For me, it's a little bit of a pain to switch because the brake tracks in the two sets of wheels I have don't line up, so I have to completely reset the pad position, but that still only takes about 5 minutes.

Rides4Beer

I have r8000 rim brakes with the 46mm LB wheels, no issues with the 28mm width, even with full size pads. 23mm GP4Ks are a perfect fit, the 25mm GP5Ks stretch to a lil wider than 28mm, still works, just not aero optimized. I had no problem mounting either tire, I lay them in the sun for a bit and then they went right on with no levers.


No buzz with my 46mm LB wheels, as mentioned they do make a bit of a whoosh sound when you're sprinting.

I run Swissstop Black Prince pads with the carbon wheels and Koolstop Salmon pads with my alloys, I switch them out with the wheels, I have to adjust the brakes anyway for each wheelset, so might as well run the proper pads.

noodle soup

I wouldn't call it a "buzz", but they do make a whooshing sound at speed. I'm using the 56mm (disc brake)hoops with 30mm Schwalbe G-One speed tires. The ride is incredibly smooth and fast , even over the roughest pavement.

MinnMan

Thanks for the info. I run the Koolstop Salmon with my Ardennes. I can see that swapping pads would be pretty easy and why it's advisable.

Still thinking of the narrower rims (45-55 mm depth). This is for a roadbike that will seldom see gravel, and though I know everybody loves wide tire profiles these days, it seems to me that going too wide blunts the aero advantage of deep carbon wheels. I will likely experiment - maybe with a 23 mm tire in the front and 25 in the back.

Rides4Beer

If you keep the tire in the 105% rule, wider can be just as aero, but more comfortable. I run 23mm GP4Ks that measure out to 27mm on the 21c rims, comfortable and fast.

deepakvrao

So, my first ride on the 56 wheels. Far better handling in moderate croswinds than I had expected. This is my first ride with a deep section wheel, and it was not at all bad.

Conti 5000s 25mm, measured just over 28, and I rode at about 60 psi. Comfy ride too.

Wheels look great on a black bike

Thanks guys for all the help that I got here.

Sy Reene

Nice looking setup! Your PSI choice is one example that I think I see a lot that has me scratching my head sometimes. While I get that the ride is more comfy, and that with sealant you're probably better flat protected, but eg. the data at BRR seems to suggest that performance-wise (rolling resistance) you're worse off than running the tubed GP5ks inflated to normal PSIs returned by various calculators. And the BRR data is based on roughly a 150lb rider fwiw.

deepakvrao

I don't race. Old and fat. Comfortable ride with some flat protection is all I want. The carbon wheels were always a *thing* I wanted, but was not willing with rim brakes. Now that I got a disc bike, I got the wheels. The only time I need some speed, is the occasional time I get caught riding with guys half my age.

Honest enough to admit that it was for the bling value

Ericoschmitt

I ride the same wheels and usually 60 to 70 psi depending on the ride. When I used tubed setup it was about the same pressure usually...

Also do a search on rolling impedance; going too high can take all the advantage away. For most uses 80psi is about as high as I'd go (63kg) except if I'll do a TT in smooth roads, which is never. It does feel fast to ride like this.

I used to pump to 100 until I realised that only made my bones shake and made me slower. On the training bike I ride G-One 60mm at 25psi and I can easly ride with road bikes.

Rides4Beer

Nothing wrong with that at all. It always cracks me up when people won't admit that aesthetics matter, they do, and it's ok. Bike looks great!!

noodle soup

Light Bicycle released a couple of new rims

38mm deep x 32mm wide(25mm internal)
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-ro...available.html

50mm deep x 32mm wide(25mm internal)
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-ro...available.html

WhyFi

Lol - that one is so wide that it doesn't even look like a mid-depth rim.

noodle soup

That hoop would be great for a gravel wheelset.

WhyFi

Definitely, it's just funny how 31mm wide makes 38mm deep look so quaint. Looking at the cross-section without labeled dimensions, I would have thought that it was a typical 25mm deep rim.

Marcus_Ti

Beware Max pressure ratings on the rim. Which is the problem with old school MTB rims for an unpaved road bike...not at all sure the rim spec WRT pressure is accurate

WhyFi

I'm sure that the rim can handle that pressure just fine, but that in no way implies that it's a safe pressure for every tire that you might want to mount on them.