Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#3476
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Next Q, and the last one for now:
Is there any compelling reason to run clinchers on the track? They are easier to mount and deal with flats; and there is more variety of clinchers available in pre-built and custom-built form.
Performance wise though, tubs will have nicer feel and be much lighter, just like on the road. Seems that as long as one is ok with dealing with glue and having somewhat less choice in models, there is no reason not to run tubulars.
Not trying to start a fight or anything with this question; just thinking about getting the pieces together for a track bike build.
Many thanks
Is there any compelling reason to run clinchers on the track? They are easier to mount and deal with flats; and there is more variety of clinchers available in pre-built and custom-built form.
Performance wise though, tubs will have nicer feel and be much lighter, just like on the road. Seems that as long as one is ok with dealing with glue and having somewhat less choice in models, there is no reason not to run tubulars.
Not trying to start a fight or anything with this question; just thinking about getting the pieces together for a track bike build.
Many thanks
#3477
Lapped 3x
I run clinchers on my track bike, and have ridden them on velodromes much steeper than your typical 250m. They are only a problem if you flat, you are very likely to have the tire rolled from the rim. At pressure, you should be fine.
Tubs, if properly glued, are much easier to ride out in the event of a flat. I have safely ridden out a blowout in the middle of a points race on a flat rear tub. It was scary, but it stayed on. It was the only flat I have ever had on a track before. If you are diligent in wiping your tires, the chances of a flat are rare.
The 58mm BB drop isn't too big of a deal, especially for beginners, as they typically don't have the skill or bravery to go slow enough to really catch a pedal on the track. All a high BB does is allow you to go slower without catching a pedal, but there are riding techniques to extend your range for going slower. You will just end up using them at a slightly higher speed. A higher BB is better, but a lower on isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
Tubs, if properly glued, are much easier to ride out in the event of a flat. I have safely ridden out a blowout in the middle of a points race on a flat rear tub. It was scary, but it stayed on. It was the only flat I have ever had on a track before. If you are diligent in wiping your tires, the chances of a flat are rare.
The 58mm BB drop isn't too big of a deal, especially for beginners, as they typically don't have the skill or bravery to go slow enough to really catch a pedal on the track. All a high BB does is allow you to go slower without catching a pedal, but there are riding techniques to extend your range for going slower. You will just end up using them at a slightly higher speed. A higher BB is better, but a lower on isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
#3478
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 607
Bikes: Serotta steel track bike, Specialized MTB
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
I was reading upupup and I don't understand example session.
"15 minutes easy rolling laps on an easy gear (eg 82") with a gradual windup from 30km/h up to around 40km/h if unassisted, if a motorbike is available, the windup can go up to 45-60km/h depending on the fitness and training phase, alternatively this can be done on rollers.5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One rolling acceleration for 30-50 meters
5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One flying effort, accelerating off the bank and doing 0-100 metres at pace
20 minutes rest"
Does rolling acceleration mean standing start ?
Sample training templates ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling
"15 minutes easy rolling laps on an easy gear (eg 82") with a gradual windup from 30km/h up to around 40km/h if unassisted, if a motorbike is available, the windup can go up to 45-60km/h depending on the fitness and training phase, alternatively this can be done on rollers.5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One rolling acceleration for 30-50 meters
5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One flying effort, accelerating off the bank and doing 0-100 metres at pace
20 minutes rest"
Does rolling acceleration mean standing start ?
Sample training templates ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling
#3479
Senior Member
#3481
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The 58mm BB drop isn't too big of a deal, especially for beginners, as they typically don't have the skill or bravery to go slow enough to really catch a pedal on the track. All a high BB does is allow you to go slower without catching a pedal, but there are riding techniques to extend your range for going slower. You will just end up using them at a slightly higher speed. A higher BB is better, but a lower on isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
#3482
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
"rolling acceleration" is what some call a "rolling jump". It's a rapid acceleration from a slow-ish, rolling pace (like 15-20mph) up to a high speed, then shut it down and relax.
So, it's like a standing start...but you are rolling
So, it's like a standing start...but you are rolling
#3483
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
Next Q, and the last one for now:
Is there any compelling reason to run clinchers on the track? They are easier to mount and deal with flats; and there is more variety of clinchers available in pre-built and custom-built form.
Performance wise though, tubs will have nicer feel and be much lighter, just like on the road. Seems that as long as one is ok with dealing with glue and having somewhat less choice in models, there is no reason not to run tubulars.
Not trying to start a fight or anything with this question; just thinking about getting the pieces together for a track bike build.
Many thanks
Is there any compelling reason to run clinchers on the track? They are easier to mount and deal with flats; and there is more variety of clinchers available in pre-built and custom-built form.
Performance wise though, tubs will have nicer feel and be much lighter, just like on the road. Seems that as long as one is ok with dealing with glue and having somewhat less choice in models, there is no reason not to run tubulars.
Not trying to start a fight or anything with this question; just thinking about getting the pieces together for a track bike build.
Many thanks
#3484
Senior Member
#3485
Senior Member
Next Q:
I don't have a track bike, and I am not in a rush to get one - need to find ample opportunity to use one first, then try different setups on rentals as much as possible to determine fit.
One burning question though.
Several of the frames that have caught my attention have 58mm bb drops. One of the tracks I'd ride is a 250m steep-banked indoor: the Izu velodrome. Am I correct in assuming that frames with that bb drop should be avoided?
Thanks
I don't have a track bike, and I am not in a rush to get one - need to find ample opportunity to use one first, then try different setups on rentals as much as possible to determine fit.
One burning question though.
Several of the frames that have caught my attention have 58mm bb drops. One of the tracks I'd ride is a 250m steep-banked indoor: the Izu velodrome. Am I correct in assuming that frames with that bb drop should be avoided?
Thanks
Re BB drop my previous frame was 55 mm (current frame is 45 mm) and I have had no problem riding at 19 mph on a 41-1/2 degree banking (I use 650 mm cranks and Shimano SPD-SL pedals). Crank length, tire height and pressure, crankset Q, and pedal type all affect clearance. (That said I recommend a frame with low BB drop.)
#3486
Full Member
If you are new to track racing you will probably need to get some formal training/experience before some tracks will allow you to ride.
Last edited by dunderhi; 05-10-16 at 06:30 AM. Reason: Metric conversion fix
#3487
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Question for you all.
I have a road bike and an indoor bike trainer. Should I:
1. Sell the road bike and trainer and use those funds to buy a track bike + rollers.
2. Keep the road bike + trainer and save up for a year to buy a track bike + rollers.
3. Wait to see how I do this season with the loaner bikes before making any decisions.
I'm not interested in racing road to be honest. However, I wouldn't mind entering my local crit over the summer just for the hell of it. I'm using a loaner bike at the local track. I would like to focus on track racing + training so I'm interested to see what everyone's opinion is here.
Thanks.
I have a road bike and an indoor bike trainer. Should I:
1. Sell the road bike and trainer and use those funds to buy a track bike + rollers.
2. Keep the road bike + trainer and save up for a year to buy a track bike + rollers.
3. Wait to see how I do this season with the loaner bikes before making any decisions.
I'm not interested in racing road to be honest. However, I wouldn't mind entering my local crit over the summer just for the hell of it. I'm using a loaner bike at the local track. I would like to focus on track racing + training so I'm interested to see what everyone's opinion is here.
Thanks.
#3488
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
Question for you all.
I have a road bike and an indoor bike trainer. Should I:
1. Sell the road bike and trainer and use those funds to buy a track bike + rollers.
2. Keep the road bike + trainer and save up for a year to buy a track bike + rollers.
3. Wait to see how I do this season with the loaner bikes before making any decisions.
I'm not interested in racing road to be honest. However, I wouldn't mind entering my local crit over the summer just for the hell of it. I'm using a loaner bike at the local track. I would like to focus on track racing + training so I'm interested to see what everyone's opinion is here.
Thanks.
I have a road bike and an indoor bike trainer. Should I:
1. Sell the road bike and trainer and use those funds to buy a track bike + rollers.
2. Keep the road bike + trainer and save up for a year to buy a track bike + rollers.
3. Wait to see how I do this season with the loaner bikes before making any decisions.
I'm not interested in racing road to be honest. However, I wouldn't mind entering my local crit over the summer just for the hell of it. I'm using a loaner bike at the local track. I would like to focus on track racing + training so I'm interested to see what everyone's opinion is here.
Thanks.
You will get more practical training use out of a road bike than rollers. The road bike is useful because you can't train on your track bike in the streets.
You can use the indoor trainer for your road bike or your track bike.
You can't use the loaner bikes forever at the track. Eventually, you will need your own.
Don't worry about rollers for now. A road bike, track bike, and indoor trainer are enough to take you a long way. Rollers are generally only good for warm up, cool down, some basic aerobic workouts, and fine-tuning your pedal stroke. It's sort of an advanced training tool. Sounds like you are just starting out. You probably won't need them yet.
#3489
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Forget rollers for now.
You will get more practical training use out of a road bike than rollers. The road bike is useful because you can't train on your track bike in the streets.
You can use the indoor trainer for your road bike or your track bike.
You can't use the loaner bikes forever at the track. Eventually, you will need your own.
Don't worry about rollers for now. A road bike, track bike, and indoor trainer are enough to take you a long way. Rollers are generally only good for warm up, cool down, some basic aerobic workouts, and fine-tuning your pedal stroke. It's sort of an advanced training tool. Sounds like you are just starting out. You probably won't need them yet.
You will get more practical training use out of a road bike than rollers. The road bike is useful because you can't train on your track bike in the streets.
You can use the indoor trainer for your road bike or your track bike.
You can't use the loaner bikes forever at the track. Eventually, you will need your own.
Don't worry about rollers for now. A road bike, track bike, and indoor trainer are enough to take you a long way. Rollers are generally only good for warm up, cool down, some basic aerobic workouts, and fine-tuning your pedal stroke. It's sort of an advanced training tool. Sounds like you are just starting out. You probably won't need them yet.
#3490
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
#3491
Senior Member
Maybe your local velodrome has a similar membership.
#3492
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good luck and read through this thread. You will eventually need more than a bike to start training and/or racing: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html
#3493
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
The problem being that, with limited staff, there won't be anyone to:
- Run the bike room (check out, check in)
- Maintain the bikes (more use = more maintenance required)
Plus, the fleet bikes are generally for the kids/juniors program...at DLV.
Yeah, it's a pricey sport for sure. No doubt about that.
#3494
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There is and I'm thankful it is available. It's very generous and I'll be using the rental for the entire season. Plus I'll be a cat 4 in a few weeks.
#3495
Senior Member
I used to play rugby too, and the costs before running out on the field are more now than the racing licenses for myself and my 2 kids put together. True the gear CAN cost a lot more, but there's plenty of people out there winning races on $3-400 bikes. You don't have to spend a huge amount on the sport to be good at it, but upgradeitis is a serious and detrimental-to-your-wallet affliction for cyclists!
#3497
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
78 Posts
#3498
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hollywood
Posts: 956
Bikes: Bianchi Pista, Bianchi Vigorelli
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That system gives you real time lap times and 200m times- so you can log in between efforts and check your times..
Pretty cool stuff- might still be in the testing phase- not sure it's available to everyone yet
Pretty cool stuff- might still be in the testing phase- not sure it's available to everyone yet
#3499
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 277
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
#3500
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi All,
I'm investigating timing systems to invest in for training purposes. Perhaps the most prevalent use of the timing system would be short velodrome trials, i.e. 200 meters and standing laps. I know how exorbitant some electronic timing systems can be. I did look into the Free Lap System etc. The advantages here are reasonably priced and simple to use. The disadvantages are the necessity to use a watch on the handlebar and the need to be within a short distance of the transmitter at the start. I was hoping that there is a system that uses a tape that is triggered by the wheel hitting at the start and finish.
Also, I thought I read somewhere that there is a method for timing via video recorder. However, the timer would need to be manually started.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I'm investigating timing systems to invest in for training purposes. Perhaps the most prevalent use of the timing system would be short velodrome trials, i.e. 200 meters and standing laps. I know how exorbitant some electronic timing systems can be. I did look into the Free Lap System etc. The advantages here are reasonably priced and simple to use. The disadvantages are the necessity to use a watch on the handlebar and the need to be within a short distance of the transmitter at the start. I was hoping that there is a system that uses a tape that is triggered by the wheel hitting at the start and finish.
Also, I thought I read somewhere that there is a method for timing via video recorder. However, the timer would need to be manually started.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks