Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#3726
Senior Member
Bike Cult/ Book: Online Resource: Velodromes
It says Madrid has the 250m wood Carabenchel velodrome.
#3728
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#3729
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Already did, the only velodromes I could find on this list in the vicinity of Madrid are the Coslada and Alcobendas, neither of which I can find anything useful on ! It's really frustrating
#3730
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Is it a bad idea (or impossible) to use spacers (and perhaps a different chainring?) to convert a road crankset for track use?
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
#3731
aka mattio
Is it a bad idea (or impossible) to use spacers (and perhaps a different chainring?) to convert a road crankset for track use?
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
The chainline situation might be tricky with outboard bearing stuff - it's certainly easier with square-tapered stuff when you can just get a BB with a different length spindle.
#3732
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I was worried about the chainline (err beltline) for my Gate belt drive commuter, and bought two different width spacers, but it lined up perfectly without spacers.
#3733
Elitist
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Hi, Chris.
You are posting in the Track Training and Racing forum which is dedicated to racing on the velodrome, not street bikes.
You should repost your questions in Single Speed / Fixed Gear: Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Bike Forums
You are posting in the Track Training and Racing forum which is dedicated to racing on the velodrome, not street bikes.
You should repost your questions in Single Speed / Fixed Gear: Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Bike Forums
#3734
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FYI: I am no longer a moderator.
I don't have the time/bandwidth to do proper mod duties.
[places gun and badge on the desk and walks out]
I'm a normal Joe now.
I don't have the time/bandwidth to do proper mod duties.
[places gun and badge on the desk and walks out]
I'm a normal Joe now.
#3735
aka mattio
A track chainline is 42mm from the center of the bike. Road doubles have the inner ring further inside than that, and the outer ring further outside. I forget the numbers but they're probably not hard to come by in Shimano's technical documentation.
#3736
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Sorry about that Sheriff Carleton; thought I qualified because I am becoming active exclusively on the track and am not riding my track bicycles on the road ever. I just pulled the bejeezus out of my hamstring a few weeks ago when I coasted after performing my first F200. Hazard of New Functions and all that...
And thanks for the info QP. You're alright for a punk who's queer. Appears the outboard BB's haven't exactly found a home in the track world.
And thanks for the info QP. You're alright for a punk who's queer. Appears the outboard BB's haven't exactly found a home in the track world.
Last edited by calamarichris; 08-23-16 at 07:58 PM.
#3737
aka mattio
eh, there are a couple well-regarded cranks with outboard BBs - sram omnium, rotor's track crank (i think), and even sugino is making one. it's not so much the bb, it's road cranks being made to put the chainring in a different lateral location. if you can find a spacer that will move the driveside cup out, then a chainring on the inside could work - as long as there's enough room for the NDS arm to grip the spindle and stay tight.
if your 7800 arm is a 110 bcd unit, then there are adaptors for 110 bcd -> 144 bcd that are designed around using road PMs on the track, and make chainline compensations.
if your 7800 arm is a 110 bcd unit, then there are adaptors for 110 bcd -> 144 bcd that are designed around using road PMs on the track, and make chainline compensations.
#3738
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Sorry about that Sheriff Carleton; thought I qualified because I am becoming active exclusively on the track and am not riding my track bicycles on the road ever. I just pulled the bejeezus out of my hamstring a few weeks ago when I coasted after performing my first F200. Hazard of New Functions and all that...
I don't understand.
You posted a pic of a bike with a belt drive, geared rear hub, townie bars, basket, lights, saddle bag, and brakes, NONE of which are allowed on the track and asked questions about it in the track racing forum.
Yes, you may be a trackie like everyone else here, but the purpose of the rule is to keep conversations generally on-topic.
You may be a triathlete, too, but you can't go to the triathlte forum and post questions about BMX bikes, right?
Further, the title of this thread (that I started) is: "Ask your small, random, track-related questions here"
Hey, I just want you to get your answer more than anything.
...and keep threads on topic
#3739
aka mattio
hey carleton - calamarichris asked the question about a track bike.
and then later said that a similar conversion had worked on a belt-drive commuter.
Is it a bad idea (or impossible) to use spacers (and perhaps a different chainring?) to convert a road crankset for track use?
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
Just to be clear, this is not a fixie.
I've got an SRM 7800 crank and outboard bottom bracket on my road bike. I figure it'd be cheaper to buy a Shimano BB than it would be to buy a power meter for the track bike.
#3741
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Thank you! Sorry for coloring outside the lines and thank you for all the helpful guidance I've gleaned from you in this and other threads in this subforum as well. (No sarcasm at all, I really appreciate all I've learned from you.)
#3742
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#3743
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Those are cool and they look like I could torque them to 40Nm with my bare fingers, but are trackies eschewing outboard BBs because of Q-factor?
I spent a little time at the track today, both measuring the static lean angle of my current loaner bike and doing my durndest trying to elicit this dreaded pedal strike everyone talks about. And then there was a fixie with a Sram Omnium crank perched at the curb outside of the post-velodrome pizza/brewery... dang that thing looked wide!
I understand that road frames have lower BBs, which will require stubby little crankarms to reduce pedal-strike incidents; and that stubby little crankarms will make a normal bottom bracket appear wider, but the question still hit me like a hefty-bag full of vegetable soup dropped from 14 stories:
Are trackies still in love with internal/tapered bottom brackets because of the reduced Q-factor & correspondingly assuaged pedal-strike potential?
And are Sram Omnium cranks just as narrow as their older counterparts?
I spent a little time at the track today, both measuring the static lean angle of my current loaner bike and doing my durndest trying to elicit this dreaded pedal strike everyone talks about. And then there was a fixie with a Sram Omnium crank perched at the curb outside of the post-velodrome pizza/brewery... dang that thing looked wide!
I understand that road frames have lower BBs, which will require stubby little crankarms to reduce pedal-strike incidents; and that stubby little crankarms will make a normal bottom bracket appear wider, but the question still hit me like a hefty-bag full of vegetable soup dropped from 14 stories:
Are trackies still in love with internal/tapered bottom brackets because of the reduced Q-factor & correspondingly assuaged pedal-strike potential?
And are Sram Omnium cranks just as narrow as their older counterparts?
#3744
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As for Q, I am one of those who do not believe that narrower is always better, and with respect to pedal strike, you also have to look at the BB height and pedal/shoe system.
#3745
aka mattio
#3746
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Many thanks learned fellows for the guidance.
Next question: how do you determine the narrowest bottom bracket spindle you can get away with?
Next question: how do you determine the narrowest bottom bracket spindle you can get away with?
#3747
Senior Member
#3748
aka mattio
Not much variation there - each crank is designed around a specific BB spindle width in order to place the chainring in line with the rear cog (42.5mm chainline). Changes to that are going to put the ring and cog out of alignment with each other, flex the chain, add some friction to the system. Not sure a bit less Q is worth it.
#3749
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Not much variation there - each crank is designed around a specific BB spindle width in order to place the chainring in line with the rear cog (42.5mm chainline). Changes to that are going to put the ring and cog out of alignment with each other, flex the chain, add some friction to the system. Not sure a bit less Q is worth it.
#3750
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1) Ask around at the track you're interested in to see what works for other people
2) Look at frames with less BB drop - say, 50mm or less
3) Consider narrower pedal systems like Speedplay
4) Use shorter crank arms
But to get back to your suggestion, I could also anticipate someone reasoning that the existing methods are fine, because high BBs make the bike more nimble, and outboard bearings and shorter crank arms are stiffer.