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What can you do on a full suspension that you can't do on a hardtail?

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What can you do on a full suspension that you can't do on a hardtail?

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Old 04-23-10, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mystolenbikes
Huh?

I don't get the question but lock out is built in to the shock, it's not a sperate system.(unless there are different types out there) If your shock has a little lever on it for the lock out you got lock out. If it doesn't...well...it doesn't.
There is a 4th set of cable bosses that lead to a hole that goes through one end of the shock, so I figured that was for lock-out. mtbr reviews and bikepedia seem to support this as well, but I know nothing about lock-out on shocks. Aside from that hole, there is a knob which I assumed was to adjust dampening... then again, doesn't air pressure adjust that in an air shock?
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Old 04-24-10, 12:35 AM
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Then I'm guessing your shock is remote control compatible which in my imo it is totally unnecessary, I mean how hard is it to reach down and lock or unlock your shock? By the way that question doesn't apply to the DH guys but then again if you are doing DH why would you ever wanna lock your shock out anyways?
And the knob is for your rebound adjustment.
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Old 04-24-10, 10:39 AM
  #28  
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UK, I hate to sound like a broken record, but don't obsess about lock-out or no lock-out until you've given the bike a fair shake and ridden it a while. The whole beauty of full suspension is one that stays active even when climbing - - helping to keep the rear wheel planted and aiding traction. I think people, especially coming from road and hardtails, get too tunnel-visioned on suspension movement as a bad thing and don't take the time to embrace it and learn to work with it to their advantage.

Now, if that K2's particular design turns out to be less-than-optimal, then readjust your thinking from there. But at least give it a chance.
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Old 04-24-10, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mystolenbikes
Then I'm guessing your shock is remote control compatible which in my imo it is totally unnecessary, I mean how hard is it to reach down and lock or unlock your shock?
Cool. Actually, I wouldn't care about a remote since I wouldn't plan on locking it out frequently. But how do I reach down and lock it out when all I can see is a hole going through part of the shock? I guess I should google the specs on this Noleen shock and see if they have docs to explain it.


Originally Posted by dminor
UK, I hate to sound like a broken record, but don't obsess about lock-out or no lock-out until you've given the bike a fair shake and ridden it a while. The whole beauty of full suspension is one that stays active even when climbing - - helping to keep the rear wheel planted and aiding traction. I think people, especially coming from road and hardtails, get too tunnel-visioned on suspension movement as a bad thing and don't take the time to embrace it and learn to work with it to their advantage.

Now, if that K2's particular design turns out to be less-than-optimal, then readjust your thinking from there. But at least give it a chance.
Yeah I understand. I didn't have very many reasons to lock out my Alpinestars, but it would have been really nice any time I stood up (sprints, smooth climbs). I won't even think twice if I find out this shock doesn't have the ability to. I especially look forward to an active suspension making my descents faster, and giving my technical climbs more traction.
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Old 04-24-10, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
UK, I hate to sound like a broken record,
broken record yes, dead horse no. i understand that urbanknight gets it but for the benefit of any other pedalbobaphobic readers this bears a +1.
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Old 04-24-10, 11:06 PM
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Thanks for all your help, everyone! I pumped the shock up and will verify that it holds air over the next few days. From there, I just need to get a headset and seatpost, and the rest of the parts should swap right over.
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Old 04-25-10, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
. Aside from that hole, there is a knob which I assumed was to adjust dampening... then again, doesn't air pressure adjust that in an air shock?
Air adjusts the spring rate (how much force it takes to compress the shock) and damping adjusts... well... damping (how much the shock will resist movement). Best way to find out what this means in practical terms is to play with both until you get a feel for what they do. For me I keep using less and less rebound damping until I feel the bike feeling too much like a pogo stick. That puts me in the ballpark and then I just add or subtract a little until it feels right going over terrain.

Air pressure on the rear can be set using sag, but I just use that again to get me in to the ballpark and I add and subtract until it feels right (and I have a little extra travel in the shock after a long ride, which you can tell by where the little o-ring ends up on the shock's shaft). I set air pressure on the front by feel as well. I started with the recommended setting in the manual that came with the bike and adjusted from there. It's a little different for me though since I have a lefty and don't have an indication of how much my shock deflects during a ride. With a traditional fork you can put a zip tie around the shaft of one leg of the shock and see where it ends up after a ride to get an idea of how much of the shock's throw you're using.
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Old 04-25-10, 06:36 AM
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On the road you can go a lot slower on a full!
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Old 04-25-10, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bhkyte
On the road you can go a lot slower on a full!
Who cares.

Last edited by mystolenbikes; 04-25-10 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 04-25-10, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bhkyte
On the road you can go a lot slower on a full!
You can do that on any bike.
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Old 04-25-10, 11:54 AM
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I find a full suspension bike is more fun and definitly made me faster than my hard tail. I miss the HT but the pro's of the boinger are more than the cons.

I have no lockout and don't care to ever have one. I do have a fox float rear shock with propedal and use the + to reduce bob on big climbs and the - adjustment on the long downhills.

What I love most is the abuse my 37 year old body no longer takes.
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Old 04-25-10, 02:42 PM
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I enjoy full suspension more than my Hardtail for the rough trails, my hands, wrists, knees, ankles, and feet also enjoy it. My bike is roughly 30 lbs (i know on the heavy side) and I have no lockout, and just a basic, 2007 Fox Float R.
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Old 04-25-10, 05:20 PM
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Hee! This thread makes me giggle.
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Old 04-25-10, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by -_RebelRidin'_-
...My bike is roughly 30 lbs (i know on the heavy side)...
I weighed my hardtail at 29 lb, so I've got no worries there.
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Old 04-25-10, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RIC0

What I love most is the abuse my 37 year old body no longer takes.
Wow dude, I'm 37 years old too but you won't be hearing those words from my mouth for another 30 years. I consider Mt biking is one of the least abusive sports for my body even if I'm coming down three mile strech of rock garden on a hardtail as long as I keep the rubber side down of course.
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Old 04-25-10, 11:37 PM
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Guys, I regularly do 4+ hour epics on my 19-pound hardtail...and I'm 46!!!
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Old 04-25-10, 11:47 PM
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i must say im actually kind of broken these days. but if i put down my cane and get on my bike (fs or ht) i can roll down some black diamond or even lose a dh race in almost total comfort.

edit: i get relief from both but on topic the fs bike makes it more enticing to hit rocks a little faster.
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Old 04-26-10, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Dilberto
Guys, I regularly do 4+ hour epics on my 19-pound hardtail...and I'm 46!!!
I regularly get out of bed!
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Old 04-26-10, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by chelboed
Why is it that people think DuBoingers are for big drops? I can see a "big drop" specific bike with really stiff suspension and slow damping if that's all you're gonna do...(Bender)...but it would be far to stiff to enjoy the benefits of suspension for "trail riding". If your bike is set up with the appropriate amount of sag for aggressive riding...it will still bottom out on a "big drop". Your damping will help a great deal, but I'd be more apt to "need" suspension on an XC or DH bike than I would doing Freeride or Urban styles of riding. XC...because of the 3-6 hrs of choppy ground that you cover...I have more energy if I can relax and stay in the saddle over the smaller stuff. DH specifically for control.


OP...you will have more fun on a dually. You don't have enough money for a decent one though...so don't bother.
Crystal clear. I had the same question.
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Old 04-26-10, 05:47 PM
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For those of you that have broken their back from racing Motocross raise your hand... Raises hand
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Old 04-26-10, 05:56 PM
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Never got badly hurt racing MX. Did get my head run over once racing flat track. [NOT your cue to say "that explains a lot."]
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Old 04-26-10, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
[NOT your cue to say "that explains a lot."]
Alright, then what is your excuse?
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Old 04-29-10, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
Pull shock - - ugh. Fortunately for you, urbanknight, K2 is good about documentation for older models. The Noleen shock is serviceable if you're handy:

https://eccyclesupply.com/k2bikes/PDF...hockManual.pdf

As are the frame pivots:

https://eccyclesupply.com/k2bikes/PDF...razorback2.pdf

I have no idea if you can still get any parts from them though.

Better yet, Noleen itself has been reincarnated as Noleen J6 (by Clark Jones, Noleen Racing's founder) and they offer servicing on all the old mtn bike product:

https://j6shocks.com/Mountain_Bike_Services.html
Thanks again for that. It looks like I'll need it. The shock only holds air for a few days.
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Old 04-29-10, 08:21 PM
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Glad to help. I try very hard to keep to being a wisecracking asshat but I forget myself occasionally and attempt to post something useful.
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Old 04-29-10, 08:29 PM
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lol well it's very useful. I paid $100 for the frame, bottom bracket, and crankset. Even if I pay $100 to have it rebuilt, that's not too bad... I hope.
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