Schwalbe Marathon Winters in Snow
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Ok, I have Schwalbe Marathon winter on my winter bike. I've found that -
1. They are the most efficient studded tires I've tried, the Nokian 240's seem to add noticeably more rolling resistance, the Nokian Extreme's feel like riding a tractor.
2. To a certain point you can get more grip by putting less pressure in them, but only to a certain point.
3. As everyone else said, fantastic on ice, and good on certain types of snow like fresh snow where the tire can cut through the snow to pavement. I've found them pretty decent on smooth hard packed snow as well (like on the MUP where it gets packed down into practically ice).
4. I did ride last year on some hardened but rutty and pitted snow on the MUP. It was a real PITA, and a ton of work, but I never fell down or felt like I was going to (though it took a lot of work to stay upright).
5. It did fall down once, though, on the street. The city hadn't really plowed it at all, and it was this weird mix of semi-packed snow, loose snow...it was just a big pile of snow on the street that had sorta been driven over before. It wasn't a big deal for me because it was a side street and there was no other traffic, and the very snow that caused me to fall cushioned my fall - it was like falling over while downhill skiing, no big deal. However, might have been different had their been traffic obviously. But...I'm just saying - I really felt like I would need a *much* gripper tire to stay upright in that situation. I did not try it, but I'm not sure a Nokian w106 would have made any difference at all. Maybe a 240 would have done it, I'm sure a Nokian Extreme would have helped.
6. But basically - any tire wide enough to make a big difference would have also been *significantly* slower the rest of the time. Actually, a lot of people even keep 2 winter bikes, one with the fat studded tire for that 10% of the time that you need it, and one with the skinny tires for the other 90% of the time when you don't want to lose a fourth or a third of your speed to the tires.
1. They are the most efficient studded tires I've tried, the Nokian 240's seem to add noticeably more rolling resistance, the Nokian Extreme's feel like riding a tractor.
2. To a certain point you can get more grip by putting less pressure in them, but only to a certain point.
3. As everyone else said, fantastic on ice, and good on certain types of snow like fresh snow where the tire can cut through the snow to pavement. I've found them pretty decent on smooth hard packed snow as well (like on the MUP where it gets packed down into practically ice).
4. I did ride last year on some hardened but rutty and pitted snow on the MUP. It was a real PITA, and a ton of work, but I never fell down or felt like I was going to (though it took a lot of work to stay upright).
5. It did fall down once, though, on the street. The city hadn't really plowed it at all, and it was this weird mix of semi-packed snow, loose snow...it was just a big pile of snow on the street that had sorta been driven over before. It wasn't a big deal for me because it was a side street and there was no other traffic, and the very snow that caused me to fall cushioned my fall - it was like falling over while downhill skiing, no big deal. However, might have been different had their been traffic obviously. But...I'm just saying - I really felt like I would need a *much* gripper tire to stay upright in that situation. I did not try it, but I'm not sure a Nokian w106 would have made any difference at all. Maybe a 240 would have done it, I'm sure a Nokian Extreme would have helped.
6. But basically - any tire wide enough to make a big difference would have also been *significantly* slower the rest of the time. Actually, a lot of people even keep 2 winter bikes, one with the fat studded tire for that 10% of the time that you need it, and one with the skinny tires for the other 90% of the time when you don't want to lose a fourth or a third of your speed to the tires.
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Paths like the Lehigh Valley Trail that get a lot of foot traffic are going to be an inconsistent mix of ice, hard snow, and soft snow. The Marathon Winters are not the best choice for that. I would get the W240.
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Did anyone mention the Marathon Winter's Kevlar belt and reflective strip yet? Zero flats to date (knock on wood) and the sidewalls really pop under direct light:
The consensus here seems to be equip one bike with the Marathon Winters for plowed roads, a fresh dusting of new snow, and sheer ice. Equip a second bike with wider, more aggressive studded tires for mashed potato snow but give yourself more time to get to your destination. While you're at it, you might as well get a Pugsley with some Endomorph tires for deep powder. Just remember... if there's ice under that snow, and studless tires contact it, you're going down.
The consensus here seems to be equip one bike with the Marathon Winters for plowed roads, a fresh dusting of new snow, and sheer ice. Equip a second bike with wider, more aggressive studded tires for mashed potato snow but give yourself more time to get to your destination. While you're at it, you might as well get a Pugsley with some Endomorph tires for deep powder. Just remember... if there's ice under that snow, and studless tires contact it, you're going down.
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If the trail is not plowed and is trafficed fairly frequently and you get a lot of rutted, frozen ice mixed with snow, I would probably have to agree.
#31
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Did anyone mention the Marathon Winter's Kevlar belt and reflective strip yet? Zero flats to date (knock on wood) and the sidewalls really pop under direct light:
The consensus here seems to be equip one bike with the Marathon Winters for plowed roads, a fresh dusting of new snow, and sheer ice. Equip a second bike with wider, more aggressive studded tires for mashed potato snow but give yourself more time to get to your destination. While you're at it, you might as well get a Pugsley with some Endomorph tires for deep powder. Just remember... if there's ice under that snow, and studless tires contact it, you're going down.
The consensus here seems to be equip one bike with the Marathon Winters for plowed roads, a fresh dusting of new snow, and sheer ice. Equip a second bike with wider, more aggressive studded tires for mashed potato snow but give yourself more time to get to your destination. While you're at it, you might as well get a Pugsley with some Endomorph tires for deep powder. Just remember... if there's ice under that snow, and studless tires contact it, you're going down.
#32
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That specific segment of the trail is paved and mostly kept plowed by RIT.
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Given the advice and comments everyone has offered, I think I know what I'm going to do.
I have some 700x40 Kenda Klondikes from last year. They worked reasonable well, so I'll take off my front fender and run those at least to start. I may replace the front fender with mountain bike mud guards. I also may look into getting an even wider tire later on, since the front fender is off anyway.
Edit: Also, has anyone ridden Continental Nordic Spike tires?
I have some 700x40 Kenda Klondikes from last year. They worked reasonable well, so I'll take off my front fender and run those at least to start. I may replace the front fender with mountain bike mud guards. I also may look into getting an even wider tire later on, since the front fender is off anyway.
Edit: Also, has anyone ridden Continental Nordic Spike tires?
Last edited by Arcanum; 10-19-10 at 09:47 AM.
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I'm going with two winter bikes this year. My Nexus 8 speed 29er commuter will have Nokian Gassa Extreme 294, my 9 speed Sports Tourer will have Kenda Klondikes 35mm. Slow but very safe!
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I have the 26" Continental Spike Claw 240
I thought I would use my MTB on the worst days however i only used it twice, once for a 3 hr epic ride on New Year's Eve Day in 17 degree weather.
I called that bike the tank and found it was perfect for some conditions but overkill for my commute. those tires are awesome but not the best choice for 26+ miles. (13 ea. way)
I thought I would use my MTB on the worst days however i only used it twice, once for a 3 hr epic ride on New Year's Eve Day in 17 degree weather.
I called that bike the tank and found it was perfect for some conditions but overkill for my commute. those tires are awesome but not the best choice for 26+ miles. (13 ea. way)
#36
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The consensus here seems to be equip one bike with the Marathon Winters for plowed roads, a fresh dusting of new snow, and sheer ice. Equip a second bike with wider, more aggressive studded tires for mashed potato snow but give yourself more time to get to your destination. While you're at it, you might as well get a Pugsley with some Endomorph tires for deep powder. Just remember... if there's ice under that snow, and studless tires contact it, you're going down.
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#37
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Given the advice and comments everyone has offered, I think I know what I'm going to do.
I have some 700x40 Kenda Klondikes from last year. They worked reasonable well, so I'll take off my front fender and run those at least to start. I may replace the front fender with mountain bike mud guards. I also may look into getting an even wider tire later on, since the front fender is off anyway.
I have some 700x40 Kenda Klondikes from last year. They worked reasonable well, so I'll take off my front fender and run those at least to start. I may replace the front fender with mountain bike mud guards. I also may look into getting an even wider tire later on, since the front fender is off anyway.
#38
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I looked at those when I was looking to buy studded tires for my mountain bike (mainly for weekend riding, but possibly for those few commuting days when the roads are really bad). Nice tires, and inexpensive too. In the end, I got Ice Spiker Pros because I'm a bit of a weight weenie when it comes to tires. However, the Continentals would make an excellent choice for those who don't want to spend a lot and still want a good (though heavy) snow tire.
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I looked at those when I was looking to buy studded tires for my mountain bike (mainly for weekend riding, but possibly for those few commuting days when the roads are really bad). Nice tires, and inexpensive too. In the end, I got Ice Spiker Pros because I'm a bit of a weight weenie when it comes to tires. However, the Continentals would make an excellent choice for those who don't want to spend a lot and still want a good (though heavy) snow tire.
I know I wouldn't use a tire with less-hard studs - don't like the idea of my studs wearing down and suddenly stop working one day.
#40
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I just checked BTD, and you can pick up a pair of 26x1.75 Marathon Winters for about $100 and free shipping.
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...-tire-26-x-175
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...-tire-26-x-175
Last edited by alan s; 10-19-10 at 11:53 AM.
#41
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I need 700x35, not 26".
#43
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www.bike-components.de has them in that size for 31.95 euros (about $44 each). Don't know about the shipping costs, though.
Edit: fixed URL
Edit: fixed URL
Last edited by jeffpoulin; 10-19-10 at 01:44 PM.
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lol, I don't think anyone really wants to clean their tires after each ride if they don't have to - and in the winter, you'd have to.
It would totally be fun to be out there riding around after a major snowfall. :-) Still think the lack of studs in pugsley tires would be a problem though. (And yes, I have actually ridden a pugsley on a lake partially covered in snow and partially in ice - it doesn't stay upright on pure, slick ice, though it does give you a chance to put your foot down before falling over).
If I was buying an IGH bike nowadays, I'd probably get a belt drive and avoid the chain altogether. Personally, I see little point in cleaning my winter bike though. In the summer, you clean the chain and it stays clean for a while. In the winter, your chain is dirty again 50 feet down the road from your driveway. I'm not sure there's much, if any, benefit to cleaning it when it will get covered in grime almost immediately once you start riding.
It would totally be fun to be out there riding around after a major snowfall. :-) Still think the lack of studs in pugsley tires would be a problem though. (And yes, I have actually ridden a pugsley on a lake partially covered in snow and partially in ice - it doesn't stay upright on pure, slick ice, though it does give you a chance to put your foot down before falling over).
If I was buying an IGH bike nowadays, I'd probably get a belt drive and avoid the chain altogether. Personally, I see little point in cleaning my winter bike though. In the summer, you clean the chain and it stays clean for a while. In the winter, your chain is dirty again 50 feet down the road from your driveway. I'm not sure there's much, if any, benefit to cleaning it when it will get covered in grime almost immediately once you start riding.
#46
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lol, I don't think anyone really wants to clean their tires after each ride if they don't have to - and in the winter, you'd have to.
It would totally be fun to be out there riding around after a major snowfall. :-) Still think the lack of studs in pugsley tires would be a problem though. (And yes, I have actually ridden a pugsley on a lake partially covered in snow and partially in ice - it doesn't stay upright on pure, slick ice, though it does give you a chance to put your foot down before falling over).
If I was buying an IGH bike nowadays, I'd probably get a belt drive and avoid the chain altogether. Personally, I see little point in cleaning my winter bike though. In the summer, you clean the chain and it stays clean for a while. In the winter, your chain is dirty again 50 feet down the road from your driveway. I'm not sure there's much, if any, benefit to cleaning it when it will get covered in grime almost immediately once you start riding.
It would totally be fun to be out there riding around after a major snowfall. :-) Still think the lack of studs in pugsley tires would be a problem though. (And yes, I have actually ridden a pugsley on a lake partially covered in snow and partially in ice - it doesn't stay upright on pure, slick ice, though it does give you a chance to put your foot down before falling over).
If I was buying an IGH bike nowadays, I'd probably get a belt drive and avoid the chain altogether. Personally, I see little point in cleaning my winter bike though. In the summer, you clean the chain and it stays clean for a while. In the winter, your chain is dirty again 50 feet down the road from your driveway. I'm not sure there's much, if any, benefit to cleaning it when it will get covered in grime almost immediately once you start riding.
My latest bike is equipped with belt drive and IGH, and also has disc brakes. I am looking forward to a low-maintenance winter season (while keeping my fingers crossed, of course).
#47
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Have you tried the nokian mount and ground 160's? 26x1.95. Good for all kinds of winter slop. I run 45 psi for dryer conditions. At 30 psi the studs have more contact with the ground for snow/ice.
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Nice! :-) Sounds like you have my dream winter bike...sadly, I bought my bike before belt drives were available... :-(
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I found that cleaning my tires half a dozen times through the winter sufficed to keep the reflective strip reflective.
My latest bike is equipped with belt drive and IGH, and also has disc brakes. I am looking forward to a low-maintenance winter season (while keeping my fingers crossed, of course).
My latest bike is equipped with belt drive and IGH, and also has disc brakes. I am looking forward to a low-maintenance winter season (while keeping my fingers crossed, of course).
I'd love a drop bar belt-drive bike with clearance for 40mm tires and fenders but haven't seen one yet. Of course it's just as well since I couldn't afford one right now anyway.
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I will make sure to report back here often (and in the Winter Cycling forum) regarding my new ride's ability to handle what winter can throw at it. We get a lot of Great Lake effect weather here, an ice storm or three every winter, and the City Fathers use a lot of salt on the roads. I'll be dropping the bottom bracket and headset for some rustproofing in November and putting some oil in the cable housings. I'll then add my studded tires and platform pedals and my bike will be winter-ready. My biggest concern is that the IGH will stop functioning if it gets too cold; I don't know if Shimano recommends a cold-weather lubricant for its Alfine hub. I will find out before I winterize the bike.
@ tjspiel: Fellow BF member canyoneagle owns the sister of my bike, a 2010 Norco Vesta. It's a single-speed, belt-driven, drop bar commuter. He converted his to the Alfine IGH and it looks great! I doubt it has clearance for 40mm tires but there is ample clearance for 35s (ala Schwalbe Marathon Winters). You can read about his build here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...got-a-new-ride
One caveat: The Vesta is a one-off model for 2010 so it may be hard to find. Norco's replacement for 2011 is a more track-style bike called the Diamond:
https://www.norco.com/bikes/urban/suit/diamond/
Alternatively there's the Civia Bryant. but I have no idea about its tire clearance (it comes with 32s):
https://civiacycles.com/bikes/bryant/
@ tjspiel: Fellow BF member canyoneagle owns the sister of my bike, a 2010 Norco Vesta. It's a single-speed, belt-driven, drop bar commuter. He converted his to the Alfine IGH and it looks great! I doubt it has clearance for 40mm tires but there is ample clearance for 35s (ala Schwalbe Marathon Winters). You can read about his build here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...got-a-new-ride
One caveat: The Vesta is a one-off model for 2010 so it may be hard to find. Norco's replacement for 2011 is a more track-style bike called the Diamond:
https://www.norco.com/bikes/urban/suit/diamond/
Alternatively there's the Civia Bryant. but I have no idea about its tire clearance (it comes with 32s):
https://civiacycles.com/bikes/bryant/
Last edited by irclean; 10-19-10 at 03:09 PM.