Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Need a lower first gear for hills

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Need a lower first gear for hills

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-07-19, 01:21 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times in 173 Posts
Originally Posted by Robert A
Does going from 11-30 to 11-34 and the associated change in derailleur and chain lengthening affect shift quality?
you don't need to change the derailleur, and no it doesn't affect shift quality
redlude97 is offline  
Old 01-07-19, 04:58 PM
  #27  
Serious Cyclist
 
Dan333SP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: RVA
Posts: 9,308

Bikes: Emonda SL6

Mentioned: 97 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5721 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times in 99 Posts
Originally Posted by Robert A
How do most road cyclists climb hills anyway with 11/30 or 11/28 that come standard on most roadbikes?
To be frank, "most" road cyclists usually don't do long climbs at 8-10% or higher. The ones that do are typically fitter, and more importantly, lighter. For me at about 180 lbs, I'd have to hold around 280 watts to spin my low gear (34x28) at ~85 rpm on an 8% grade. That's pretty hard to sustain for all but the most avid cyclists.
Dan333SP is offline  
Old 01-07-19, 09:16 PM
  #28  
Senior Member
 
Sojodave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 586

Bikes: The Blurple Specialized Roubaix Pro

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Liked 143 Times in 75 Posts
I ride in Utah and I can't go very far without some climbing involved. I have a 50/34 and a 11-32 cassette. I do believe in spinning up hills with a higher cadence, but I learned not to throw it down to the lowest gear possible unless you need to. On long hills, if your spinning on your lowest gear, you are going pretty slow. I've ran out of breathe on long climbs because I was in too low a gear. I usually start a long climb in the third lowest gear, shift to the second lowest if needed, and only use the lowest gear when it gets super steep.

Last year I was in a 28 mile "ride" that turned into a "race" with about 200 riders. The night before I made some adjustments to my rear derailleur, but didn't test the front derailleur. The ride took off and I was out front at two miles and we took a left and the light was yellow and only four of made it through the light. I let someone pull to the front and I was drafting off the group and were going 28 mph in the flats. We were together at about 7 miles in, and I realized my front derailleur wouldn't shift into the low chain ring. We had to climb a hill that is 7% for 4 miles. I decided that if I was going to climb that hill in the big chain ring, my only chance was to pedal at a high cadence. I started spinning 90 rpms in a 50/28 (at the time) and I was flying up the hill. I dropped the other riders and I thought, man, I've got to ride like this all the time. And then it happened...dum, dum dum, dum half way up the hill, my legs were on fire. I slowed down my cadence to 70, and then I ran out of breath. I didn't have my hrm, but I bet my heart was beating out of my chest. The group caught up to me and dropped me like a hot potato. I started seeing stars and I thought I was going to pass out. I some how struggled to the top, coasted down the other side of the hill to catch my breath. The moral of the story is learn how to pace your gears on long climbs.

Last edited by Sojodave; 01-07-19 at 09:21 PM. Reason: grammar
Sojodave is offline  
Old 01-07-19, 10:24 PM
  #29  
Senior Member
 
woodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 6,016
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1814 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 923 Times in 569 Posts
Originally Posted by Jumpski
Spinning is winning. Two years ago I went from 11-32 to 11-40 using Wolf Tooth road link ($21.95) while in Thailand, and never looked back. I am currently on the same set up, and will go back to 11-32 state side. I really don't get the whole grinding thing. Serious cyclist here are using 40 rear cassette on road bikes. I learned the hard way. I am running Shimanno DI2 Ultegra. Have fun


Grinding is whining. (sorry- joke)

I confess that the 11-34 that I put on for the big events is still in use.

But with 48/34 chainrings, I get up a lot of stuff in the big ring so that looks impressive.
woodcraft is offline  
Old 01-08-19, 12:40 PM
  #30  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,360 Times in 866 Posts
Yea , but

Originally Posted by Robert A
Does going from 11-30 to 11-34 and the associated change in derailleur and chain lengthening affect shift quality?
IDK what your user skill is, & when you want your bike to shift ?? #1 don't force it ...

anticipate a gear you will need before you need it .. get ahead of the current gear, so as to take force off the chain,
then ask it to shift off 1 cog or chainring onto another..



You should buy a new chain by now and particularly as you will buy a new cassette..

why not do both? a 34:34 low gear is like climbing a hill on a unicycle ..




...

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-08-19 at 12:44 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 01-08-19, 02:46 PM
  #31  
Senior Member
 
Racing Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,236
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 321 Times in 218 Posts
Originally Posted by Robert A
I'm struggling on grades >6% and really need a lower first gear. Bike is a 2019 Cannondale CAAD12 with OPI Spidering 52/36 in front and an Ultegra R8000 11/30 cassette in rear.

1. Do I replace the cassette, with perhaps an 11/34? Replacing the cassette would also require a derailleur replacement. Compared to the 11/30 I already have, the 11/34 has a 13% lower first gear.
2. Or do I replace the chainrings to 50/34, which is expensive because it's the OPI Spidering? Going from a 52/36 to a 50/34 gets me a 6% lower first gear, which doesn't seem like much.
3. Or do I live with stock gearing and focus on leg strengthening?

Comments and suggestions would be appreciated.
Imo, get a R7000 GS rear DR, a 11-34 105 cassette and a new chain. When you get to a better fitness level you can change back to your R8000 ect ...
Racing Dan is offline  
Old 01-09-19, 02:35 PM
  #32  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 755

Bikes: 2019 CAAD12, 2015 Specialized Sirrus Comp

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 562 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 64 Times in 46 Posts
I'm giving serious consideration to switching the Ultegra cassette from 11-30 to 11-34. Cannondale said my Ultegra derailleur is compatible with 11-34, which makes the parts cost (including the chain) fairly reasonable.

Shimano says the 11-34 Ultegra cassette is actually in their mountain line rather than the road line (which caps out at 11-32). Does this mean I'm taking on a meaningfully heavier cassette or making other tradeoffs I might regret?
Robert A is offline  
Old 01-09-19, 02:54 PM
  #33  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times in 173 Posts
Originally Posted by Robert A
I'm giving serious consideration to switching the Ultegra cassette from 11-30 to 11-34. Cannondale said my Ultegra derailleur is compatible with 11-34, which makes the parts cost (including the chain) fairly reasonable.

Shimano says the 11-34 Ultegra cassette is actually in their mountain line rather than the road line (which caps out at 11-32). Does this mean I'm taking on a meaningfully heavier cassette or making other tradeoffs I might regret?
No, it has to do with the way the cassette spider is built to go on the freehub. Shimano MTB uses the same length as the 10 speed road design and offsets the larger 34t back towards the spokes which you can't do with a smaller cassette. What it means is you'll just have to run a small(included) spacer with a road 11 speed freehub. The the jumps in the cassette are more mtb like also so take that into consideration if you like close spacing in the middle of the cassette
redlude97 is offline  
Old 01-09-19, 03:16 PM
  #34  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 755

Bikes: 2019 CAAD12, 2015 Specialized Sirrus Comp

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 562 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 64 Times in 46 Posts
Is the difference in gear spacing fairly linear through the range, or are they greater toward the lower gears? I tend to ride mostly in the middle gears.
Originally Posted by redlude97
No, it has to do with the way the cassette spider is built to go on the freehub. Shimano MTB uses the same length as the 10 speed road design and offsets the larger 34t back towards the spokes which you can't do with a smaller cassette. What it means is you'll just have to run a small(included) spacer with a road 11 speed freehub. The the jumps in the cassette are more mtb like also so take that into consideration if you like close spacing in the middle of the cassette
Robert A is offline  
Old 01-09-19, 04:39 PM
  #35  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times in 173 Posts
Originally Posted by Robert A
Is the difference in gear spacing fairly linear through the range, or are they greater toward the lower gears? I tend to ride mostly in the middle gears.
the major thing with the 11-34 is that the cassette starts with 11-13-15-17 jumps compared to the 11-12-13-14-16 for the 11-32. I personally don't like it but others don't have a problem with it, more of an issue in a group
redlude97 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TKJava
Bicycle Mechanics
49
05-13-19 09:28 PM
mtnbud
General Cycling Discussion
10
04-21-19 06:36 AM
watercamper
Bicycle Mechanics
35
02-26-16 11:16 AM
antokelly
Road Cycling
14
05-20-15 11:57 AM
sarals
Fifty Plus (50+)
134
05-25-11 01:18 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.