Cannondale Capo
#26
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Location: NYC
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Bikes: 2000 Raleigh M50. 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour. 2008 Cannondale Synapse 6.
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What don't you like about external BB cranks operator? I think external BB is a big improvement over square taper/splined BBs. And i'm still not totally sold on BB30 yet. I like the weight savings and narrower Q, but i'm not sure how many times a frame can handle having BB bearings pressed into it before deforming and being unusable. Especially in bikes that are going to be used in rain/crud weather where BB replacement is more common.
#27
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"Some reviewers complain about the wheels but they didn't stand out to me as particularly bad...thoughts?"
Change the tires and rims if you can afford it. The 700 x 25's catch road debris and grind it along the stays right down to the bare aluminum. I run 700 x 23 now on Open Pro's and the problem seems to have disappeared.
I can't live with a cheap, slow engaging, short lived, Shimano freewheel. I upgraded to a White Industry, but watch your chainline. I also used a 610Hx chain as they wear longer and I want a year out of my drive train before changing freewheel, chain and chainring.
It may seem extreme to do the complete change every year, but the heavy torque will wear everything and just changing the chain leaves miserable skips and clicks to contend with. So stay on the lookout for good deals on the drive train parts. (Incidently I also change my Shimano outboard bearings yearly. I have a Philwood square taper bottom bracket, but I need a Sugino 75 to go with it.)
I needed a Selle SMP saddle and a full adjustment seatpost but the rest of the stock seemed fine.
Change the tires and rims if you can afford it. The 700 x 25's catch road debris and grind it along the stays right down to the bare aluminum. I run 700 x 23 now on Open Pro's and the problem seems to have disappeared.
I can't live with a cheap, slow engaging, short lived, Shimano freewheel. I upgraded to a White Industry, but watch your chainline. I also used a 610Hx chain as they wear longer and I want a year out of my drive train before changing freewheel, chain and chainring.
It may seem extreme to do the complete change every year, but the heavy torque will wear everything and just changing the chain leaves miserable skips and clicks to contend with. So stay on the lookout for good deals on the drive train parts. (Incidently I also change my Shimano outboard bearings yearly. I have a Philwood square taper bottom bracket, but I need a Sugino 75 to go with it.)
I needed a Selle SMP saddle and a full adjustment seatpost but the rest of the stock seemed fine.
#28
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It may seem extreme to do the complete change every year, but the heavy torque will wear everything and just changing the chain leaves miserable skips and clicks to contend with. So stay on the lookout for good deals on the drive train parts. (Incidently I also change my Shimano outboard bearings yearly. I have a Philwood square taper bottom bracket, but I need a Sugino 75 to go with it.)
.
#29
up hill both ways
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: DC/Arlington
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Bikes: KHS Flight 600 (sold); Giant ATX 760 (stolen, then retreived!); Schwinn Tempo; Schwinn Breeze (on loan), Lemond Fillmore, Cannondale Capo
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"Some reviewers complain about the wheels but they didn't stand out to me as particularly bad...thoughts?"
Change the tires and rims if you can afford it. The 700 x 25's catch road debris and grind it along the stays right down to the bare aluminum. I run 700 x 23 now on Open Pro's and the problem seems to have disappeared.
I can't live with a cheap, slow engaging, short lived, Shimano freewheel. I upgraded to a White Industry, but watch your chainline. I also used a 610Hx chain as they wear longer and I want a year out of my drive train before changing freewheel, chain and chainring.
It may seem extreme to do the complete change every year, but the heavy torque will wear everything and just changing the chain leaves miserable skips and clicks to contend with. So stay on the lookout for good deals on the drive train parts. (Incidently I also change my Shimano outboard bearings yearly. I have a Philwood square taper bottom bracket, but I need a Sugino 75 to go with it.)
I needed a Selle SMP saddle and a full adjustment seatpost but the rest of the stock seemed fine.
Change the tires and rims if you can afford it. The 700 x 25's catch road debris and grind it along the stays right down to the bare aluminum. I run 700 x 23 now on Open Pro's and the problem seems to have disappeared.
I can't live with a cheap, slow engaging, short lived, Shimano freewheel. I upgraded to a White Industry, but watch your chainline. I also used a 610Hx chain as they wear longer and I want a year out of my drive train before changing freewheel, chain and chainring.
It may seem extreme to do the complete change every year, but the heavy torque will wear everything and just changing the chain leaves miserable skips and clicks to contend with. So stay on the lookout for good deals on the drive train parts. (Incidently I also change my Shimano outboard bearings yearly. I have a Philwood square taper bottom bracket, but I need a Sugino 75 to go with it.)
I needed a Selle SMP saddle and a full adjustment seatpost but the rest of the stock seemed fine.
How does the White Industries freewheel change the chainline?
#30
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#31
hateful little monkey
Join Date: May 2003
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