Bacchetta Strada vrs. Bacchetta Giro
#26
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If the idea of having to select a 'bent that has an adequate weight limit for you and your anticipated cargo so you can preserve a frame warranty significantly offends you, then you shouldn't buy a 'bent. Because I don't think you will find one that doesn't have a specified weight limit, and you can be sure that any 'bent with a 'serious' frame warranty will have that weight limit as a condition of the warranty. Those are the facts. I am only the messenger, don't shoot me.
Cheers
Andrew
Last edited by Aushiker; 01-19-13 at 11:06 PM. Reason: Spelling
#27
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The best way to explain the difference is to compare them with cars...the Strada (Bacchetta calls it one of their performance bikes) is like getting into a Corvette. It is a bit small for me, a tight fit. It is FAST, and wants to go faster than I willing to go some times. At speed it's a bit loose, and sometimes wants to get weird in the corners. The Giro is a JEEP. A bit looser, slower, easier to get going from a stop, but with less top end. The riding position is more relaxed, with more elbow bend and a bit more room to move around. The bars are higher and wider and drop farther...but it's SLOW compared to the Strada. I think much of this is the previous owners selection of Kenda Quest 65psi tires. The ride seems soft and bouncy on these tires compared to the 650-23c's running at 100+ psi on the Strada.
That being said, I feel that the bike-e was more stable at low speed and easier to start on, both from a stop and in general as a “trainer” ‘bent. However, the Giro feels more stable at speed and feels faster. I am using an i-gotU GT-800 for my GPS and it entirely messes up average speed; however, the Giro feels faster based in perception and glances at the GPS.
The bike-e feels much more rideable on paths and minor trails. I think that part of the issue is that, at 5’6”, even the “standard” is too big for me. I think that once my finances stabilize I am going to put 24” wheels on it, as is mentioned here in the Giro blog.
Dual 24” (507 or 520mm). These wheel sizes only work with disc brakes. 507mm wheels and tires are generally found on adult BMX bikes, and most of the rubber available comes in wider sizes. 520mm wheels and tires are generally found on kids’ road bikes, and the rubber for them is mostly the skinny roadie type.
I personally ride a Giro-26 set up with 24”, 507x38c, 100psi, micro knobby tires and it makes a great commuter. I’m six feet tall and can ride the stock wheels with no problems, but with fatter tires the bike gets a bit tall for my taste. With the smaller 507’s, I can get the cushier ride of the fatter tires and the seat actually gets a little closer to the ground which makes starting and stopping a no brainer (see more about this setup below).
I personally ride a Giro-26 set up with 24”, 507x38c, 100psi, micro knobby tires and it makes a great commuter. I’m six feet tall and can ride the stock wheels with no problems, but with fatter tires the bike gets a bit tall for my taste. With the smaller 507’s, I can get the cushier ride of the fatter tires and the seat actually gets a little closer to the ground which makes starting and stopping a no brainer (see more about this setup below).
MORE RAMBLING ON THE SUBJECT OF WHEELS
As mentioned above, I have a Giro26 built up with 24” (507mm) wheels and 1.5” tires for commuting and touring. (These wheels were custom made at Power-On Cycling https://poweroncycling.com/). Since these wheels have disc hubs and the correct rear hub spacing of 135mm, there was no need to change anything else on the bike. I simply removed the stock wheels and replaced them with the 24’s.
This set-up drops the seat height about one inch or so, and even thought it doesn’t seem like much, it makes getting a foot flat on the ground much easier and that’s something I really like, especially when loaded down for touring. The smaller rear wheel also gives me better gearing for hauling a load. And opposed to the dual 20” wheels, the 24’s look natural and work well with the stock gearing.
As mentioned above, I have a Giro26 built up with 24” (507mm) wheels and 1.5” tires for commuting and touring. (These wheels were custom made at Power-On Cycling https://poweroncycling.com/). Since these wheels have disc hubs and the correct rear hub spacing of 135mm, there was no need to change anything else on the bike. I simply removed the stock wheels and replaced them with the 24’s.
This set-up drops the seat height about one inch or so, and even thought it doesn’t seem like much, it makes getting a foot flat on the ground much easier and that’s something I really like, especially when loaded down for touring. The smaller rear wheel also gives me better gearing for hauling a load. And opposed to the dual 20” wheels, the 24’s look natural and work well with the stock gearing.
All that being said, it seems durable and well suited to long commutes. As stated, once moving, it is stable at speed. It is easy to ride it faster than the bike-e and it handles road bumps pretty well. The seat is comfortable (even if it does need a headrest). I really think most of my complaints with it will be fixed by smaller wheels.
Last edited by Robert C; 01-20-13 at 11:30 AM.
#28
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From reading the OP's post and riding my EZ-1 sx with 65 psi kenda's I wonder how much the tire effected the feel/speed overall.
The two bikes look so similar to my untrained eye.
I risked a blow out on my 65 psi kenda's raising the pressure to 75 psi (for a short test) and I felt a real diff at my top speed and acceleration.
I settled on 70 psi but still those kenda's felt like anchors all the time, especially when going fast
The two bikes look so similar to my untrained eye.
I risked a blow out on my 65 psi kenda's raising the pressure to 75 psi (for a short test) and I felt a real diff at my top speed and acceleration.
I settled on 70 psi but still those kenda's felt like anchors all the time, especially when going fast
#29
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Tire Pressures are only recommendations from lawyers
The usual problem with tire pressures in my experience is blowing the tire bead off the rim because the tire isn't properly seated. Also, over-pressurizing tires can cause the tread to wear faster.
"Your mileage may vary" as they say.
#30
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According to Berto, the way the pressure rating is determined is by mounting the tire correctly, then inflating it until it blows out. The max pressure is set at half that number. Roughly.
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