I want a Rapid Rise derailleur
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,272
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 716 Post(s)
Liked 807 Times
in
479 Posts
Your first point about multi-shifts is valid, but the above quote is incorrect. The same lever will work against the spring in both cases, its just the direction that the RD moves that changes. With a Top Normal RD, the spring pulls the RD toward the smallest cog. With a Low Normal the spring pulls the RD toward the largest cog.
#27
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 45,279
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13042 Post(s)
Liked 7,969 Times
in
4,240 Posts
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,167
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4239 Post(s)
Liked 3,976 Times
in
2,363 Posts
I always believer that the cable pull to shift into a larger cog/ring was because it took more energy to lift that chain up. Relying on a spring to do so, especially when there would then be no "overshift" travel to the cage, requires a spot on index adjustment. This is what well biked said about single race adjustment expectations I think. I look at rapid rise as a "in a perfect world" type of thing. Too bad real life/bike riding isn't perfect very often. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#29
Senior Member
Your first point about multi-shifts is valid, but the above quote is incorrect. The same lever will work against the spring in both cases, its just the direction that the RD moves that changes. With a Top Normal RD, the spring pulls the RD toward the smallest cog. With a Low Normal the spring pulls the RD toward the largest cog.
I always believer that the cable pull to shift into a larger cog/ring was because it took more energy to lift that chain up. Relying on a spring to do so, especially when there would then be no "overshift" travel to the cage, requires a spot on index adjustment. This is what well biked said about single race adjustment expectations I think. I look at rapid rise as a "in a perfect world" type of thing. Too bad real life/bike riding isn't perfect very often. Andy
#30
Senior Member
There’s something you don’t hear everyday.
#31
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I like my rapid rise rear derailleur.
I've had my KTM MTB for over 20 years and the Nexave Megarange rapid rise rear derailleur always worked just fine. The gear shifter needed opening and cleaning once because it was sticky and wouldn't shift down any more. I haven't had to change the cable once in over 20 years.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,846
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1956 Post(s)
Liked 2,201 Times
in
1,339 Posts
I put Rapid Rise on a mountain bike for my wife 5/6 years ago. She has ridden road bikes with down tube shifters, but the triggers caused her shifting issues. Even though she does not ride anything technical, I want her the know that she was shifting the right direction.
I ended up putting one on my bike and liked the ability to dump the cassette like paintball (single finger of course) if I had to.
So now I’ve got a few flat bar bikes with them.
I’ve had no issues with them at all, even the bikes where I have gone down in water. I keep waiting for the doomsday, but it just hasn’t come.
I’ve used 3 RR derailleurs...
Deore 580 - wouldn’t recommend because of a weak B spring.
XT 760 - probably the best and has been bulletproof.
XTR 960 - not enough improvement over the 760.
I really don’t care about the opinion of the derailleurs. I buy and build what I want.
John
I ended up putting one on my bike and liked the ability to dump the cassette like paintball (single finger of course) if I had to.
So now I’ve got a few flat bar bikes with them.
I’ve had no issues with them at all, even the bikes where I have gone down in water. I keep waiting for the doomsday, but it just hasn’t come.
I’ve used 3 RR derailleurs...
Deore 580 - wouldn’t recommend because of a weak B spring.
XT 760 - probably the best and has been bulletproof.
XTR 960 - not enough improvement over the 760.
I really don’t care about the opinion of the derailleurs. I buy and build what I want.
John
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 331
Bikes: '68 Masi Special road, Grail bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 108 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 70 Times
in
58 Posts
dsaul said easier for new riders to figure out. this is exactly what Suntour thought with their
backwards front derailleurs of the early 70s but they were soon scapped. the standard arrangement
just makes more sense from a mechanical view. use the strength of the cable pull to make the
difficult shift (low) and let the spring ease it down to high and if the shifters move in opposite
directions so be it.
backwards front derailleurs of the early 70s but they were soon scapped. the standard arrangement
just makes more sense from a mechanical view. use the strength of the cable pull to make the
difficult shift (low) and let the spring ease it down to high and if the shifters move in opposite
directions so be it.
#34
Not lost wanderer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lititz, Pa
Posts: 3,387
Bikes: In USA; 73 Raleigh Super Course dingle speed, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 72 Geoffry Butler, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 74 Gugie Grandier Sportier
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 901 Post(s)
Liked 1,048 Times
in
552 Posts
I have a few of them that I will be selling once I can finally travel post Covid-19.