I don't like my bike
#26
stole your bike
I moves the seat back, tilted the seat anlge up a bit, and rotated the bars down a bit. Went around the neighborhood a few times and it felt a little better. I am going to go out early in the morning see if I can put in 30-40.
Sorry for b!tching. Don't get me wrong--its a gorgeous bike. My better half reminded me how long it took to get my last new bike adjusted and dialed in. There is definately a "dead spot" in my spin---coming up and over. It just felt wierd going up hills. On my fixie--I attack hills and drop all the roadies going up. I had to work a lot harder today to get up hills I usually just hop right on over. After 20 miles of hills, I was wasted.
I noticed my hammies are were working much much harder than they are used to. Its just a totally different feeling than what I am used to.
I'll try and post pics tommorrow.
Thanks for all the advice.
I'll go put down the pabst and pick up the razor.
Sorry for b!tching. Don't get me wrong--its a gorgeous bike. My better half reminded me how long it took to get my last new bike adjusted and dialed in. There is definately a "dead spot" in my spin---coming up and over. It just felt wierd going up hills. On my fixie--I attack hills and drop all the roadies going up. I had to work a lot harder today to get up hills I usually just hop right on over. After 20 miles of hills, I was wasted.
I noticed my hammies are were working much much harder than they are used to. Its just a totally different feeling than what I am used to.
I'll try and post pics tommorrow.
Thanks for all the advice.
I'll go put down the pabst and pick up the razor.
I suspect it's the change from one riding style to another that's at work here rather than the bike itself. When I switched from mountain bike to a road bike it took a bit adjusting to the different seating position, so just continue riding until you get used to the gears and adapt to the changes. If the pain persists I would go get a pro fit to avoid injury.
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#28
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Sounds like you should be visiting your local professional fitter.
Last edited by Ramjm_2000; 08-17-08 at 07:50 AM.
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#31
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Regards, Anthony
#32
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Buyers remorse?
The bike felt all Squishy
My steel fixed gear bikes feel "solid" and "stiff" The Fuji (aluminum with carbon fork and seatstays) just feels "soft, squishy, and nonresponsive." On my fixed gear bike, I am able to keep a straight line, on my new Fuji I was all over the road
![Mad](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/mad.gif)
The bike felt all Squishy
My steel fixed gear bikes feel "solid" and "stiff" The Fuji (aluminum with carbon fork and seatstays) just feels "soft, squishy, and nonresponsive." On my fixed gear bike, I am able to keep a straight line, on my new Fuji I was all over the road
![Mad](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I can't help on the holding a straight line comment except to ask if the tires on the Fuji are OEM or have you purchased some nice, higher end tires with higher pressure rating. Some of those OEM tires are really cheap, a way for the bike manufacturer to keep the initial cost down. The LBS's like it because they get to make a second sale when you "upgrade" to the tire the bike should have come with.
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I see your moniker suggests that you are a lawyer. Are you building a case against your LBS? As all lawyers should know.... caveat emptor!
#35
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My order was the reverse. When I first rode on my fixed gear, I hated it. I got used to it. I still prefer my RB, though..
As with others, time and adjustments are the keys (along w/t never feeling completely satisfied with your ride)
As with others, time and adjustments are the keys (along w/t never feeling completely satisfied with your ride)
#36
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Stock tires on Fuji tend to be poor. Check spoke tension - loose wheels are a no no and make for an insecure ride.
Fit and different skills generally. We've had a few Fujis and they aren't soft bikes. The skillset is very different, but I suspect the fixie experience will do well on a road bike.
Also, is the bike too big? Like most bikes sold in the US, the stem length provided stock is generally a little short and folks tend to sell one size up. For example, the 54/55 size has a 55 mm TT on 73x73.5 angles. I'd normally expect someone riding a 55 TT to have at least a 110 if not a 120. I ride a 54.8 cm TT, but with a steeper ST, making it equivalent to a 55.x. A 120 mm stem provides ideal balance. If I pull back and unload the front a bit the bike feels squirrelly and I can't get any power. I can ride a longer bike, but it's clearly a power and handling deficit.
Fit and different skills generally. We've had a few Fujis and they aren't soft bikes. The skillset is very different, but I suspect the fixie experience will do well on a road bike.
Also, is the bike too big? Like most bikes sold in the US, the stem length provided stock is generally a little short and folks tend to sell one size up. For example, the 54/55 size has a 55 mm TT on 73x73.5 angles. I'd normally expect someone riding a 55 TT to have at least a 110 if not a 120. I ride a 54.8 cm TT, but with a steeper ST, making it equivalent to a 55.x. A 120 mm stem provides ideal balance. If I pull back and unload the front a bit the bike feels squirrelly and I can't get any power. I can ride a longer bike, but it's clearly a power and handling deficit.
#38
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So many relevant factors. Fit is most important; get that fixed. Check tires. Different pressure, size, type, all will change the ride and for me, that is where squishy feeling usually comes from. Do the bikes have different weights? The lighter bike will always accelerate faster. Wheels also make a difference. How stiff are wheels on the Roubaix?
If you are spinning and going nowhere, wrong gear.
As mentioned above, the fixed will always have a better immediate power transfer, but the more expensive bikes come close. If you test rode other bikes, esp. high end race bikes, you would see why people pay more $$$.
If you are spinning and going nowhere, wrong gear.
As mentioned above, the fixed will always have a better immediate power transfer, but the more expensive bikes come close. If you test rode other bikes, esp. high end race bikes, you would see why people pay more $$$.
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A dwebe telling someone to HTFU!!
What makes you so F ing tough? Have you taken a close look at your Avatar? If thats your mug in the picture.....
STFU!! You posts are without question, the most aggravating, ill thought-out of any of the crap posted here, including mine and even that freaking moron PCUD!! Just go away!!
![Roflmao 2](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/roflmao2.gif)
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#42
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of course you are going to have deadspots in your spin coming from fixed gear, especially if you arnt using clipless pedals on your fixed. if you have clips or nothing, your foot is pushed over, so you over power on the downstroke and let the crank pull your foot up and over.
#43
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Bottom line: there's a reason why, in general, road races are on multigear bikes, and fixed gear is for tracks. Multigear is the more efficient machine in mixed terrain. (think of being stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear in your car...not great). I suspect, if you've been riding fixed gear bikes for 25 years, you already know this stuff. You're also likely highly conditioned. If you could outclimb roadies on your fixie (??), you're going to kill em on your Fuji. Or else you're just baiting? ![Wink](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/wink.gif)
It's hard to believe that you won't be able to find the gears on your Fuji that match what you're used to with your fixie. The lag in your stroke that was created by the continuous motion of the fixed gear will be made up for by training. You learn to "keep ahead" of your gear, keeping the force applied where it used to carry you along, and ultimately, while maybe less "connected", you'll get greater control over the dynamics of your riding.
I just don't buy the shtick about the fixed gear being a more efficient road machine. It ain't.
![Wink](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/wink.gif)
It's hard to believe that you won't be able to find the gears on your Fuji that match what you're used to with your fixie. The lag in your stroke that was created by the continuous motion of the fixed gear will be made up for by training. You learn to "keep ahead" of your gear, keeping the force applied where it used to carry you along, and ultimately, while maybe less "connected", you'll get greater control over the dynamics of your riding.
I just don't buy the shtick about the fixed gear being a more efficient road machine. It ain't.
#44
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It comes from an Australian comedian called Heath Franklin:
![](https://www.ronniejohns.com/chopperpic.jpg)
Doing a parody of this not very funny ex-con, Chopper Read:
![](https://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2006/05/10/markchopperread_narrowweb__300x357,0.jpg)
The TV show cashed in by selling HTFU wrist bands. O'Grady (Australian) bought some for his CSC team mate for the 2007 Tour de France.:
![](https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb73/rollinjack/htfu-csc.jpg)
You can see the "HTFU Australia" sketch here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unkIVvjZc9Y)
and the real Chopper doing a TV spot here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpQeZEmien4)
#45
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Because of this my Coach is really not big on me riding my fixed gear. (Not that he's against it, just doesn't believe there's the advantage that people claim.)
With your new bike, you'll need some time to develop your pedal stroke,and pedal circles through the dead spot.
Concentrate on pulling back at the bottom (scraping the dog poop off) and pushing over at the top.
One legged drills will help also.
Give it some time and miles, and I think you'll find you'll be faster on your new bike, and enjoying it.
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#46
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I looked at my shadow on the wall before and noticed my back was like ")" rather than "("
So I lowered saddle, swapped stem for one much longer, increased saddle tilt, moved saddle forwards-and loosened cleats --most of my pain is gone. Much more comfortable now.
Took it for another ride---much better except for the following:
1. is it usual for a new wheel to go out of round after 40 miles? As I was returning home my brake pads start rubbing and I notice a "thump" onmy from wheel. Sure enough, wheel is out of round.
2. How much "fork flex" (for lack of a better word) is a bike suppossed to have?? My fork has noticible play in it---I loosened my stem bolts and tightened the star nut, but to no avail. I can literally spin the cu and spacers
I guess I have to go back to the lbs on my lunch break tommorrow.
So I lowered saddle, swapped stem for one much longer, increased saddle tilt, moved saddle forwards-and loosened cleats --most of my pain is gone. Much more comfortable now.
Took it for another ride---much better except for the following:
1. is it usual for a new wheel to go out of round after 40 miles? As I was returning home my brake pads start rubbing and I notice a "thump" onmy from wheel. Sure enough, wheel is out of round.
2. How much "fork flex" (for lack of a better word) is a bike suppossed to have?? My fork has noticible play in it---I loosened my stem bolts and tightened the star nut, but to no avail. I can literally spin the cu and spacers
I guess I have to go back to the lbs on my lunch break tommorrow.
![Frown](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Last edited by Biking_Lawyer; 08-17-08 at 05:08 PM.
#48
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To Lawyer:
Did you test drive your Fuji before you bought it? Most people who ride steel will have issues riding anything else, especially aluminum.
Try to give the bike some more time. The symptoms that you describe sound like you may not have had the bike fitted properly. It's also possible that the vibration you felt from the road may have gotten to you too, since it is aluminum.
If you still don't like it, then return it. It happens.
Did you test drive your Fuji before you bought it? Most people who ride steel will have issues riding anything else, especially aluminum.
Try to give the bike some more time. The symptoms that you describe sound like you may not have had the bike fitted properly. It's also possible that the vibration you felt from the road may have gotten to you too, since it is aluminum.
If you still don't like it, then return it. It happens.
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#49
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1. is it usual for a new wheel to go out of round after 40 miles? As I was returning home my brake pads start rubbing and I notice a "thump" onmy from wheel. Sure enough, wheel is out of round.
2. How much "fork flex" (for lack of a better word) is a bike suppossed to have?? My fork has noticible play in it---I loosened my stem bolts and tightened the star nut, but to no avail. I can literally spin the cu and spacers
2. 99.9% certain your fork isn't flexing. Your headset isn't properly adjusted. Someone who knows wat they'redoing needs to adjust it. Go to PArk TOols website,and you can lear yourself pretty quickly.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#50
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Law school was very interesting. There were only two or three people in my class who could actually do anything - all of them country boys. They did much better in the practical applications and common sense aspects. They got contracts right away - all the games. Screw the broker, all that stuff.
I'm sure they could all adjust headsets.
On the other hand, law school is largely about listening.
I highly suggest paying a professional to really set up the bike very very well. Not just static, or on a trainer, but on the road tweeking, watching the rider up and down hills. That makes such a difference. If the rider will really listen and the pro can really explain.
I'm sure they could all adjust headsets.
On the other hand, law school is largely about listening.
I highly suggest paying a professional to really set up the bike very very well. Not just static, or on a trainer, but on the road tweeking, watching the rider up and down hills. That makes such a difference. If the rider will really listen and the pro can really explain.