noglider 

It's possible that you'd install a chainring and it rubs on the chainstay. But you can watch out for that while you put the crank on.

I don't think you can ruin the bottom bracket. At least, I can't think of how you could.

Tom

Roll-Monroe-Co

Not mine. Just some of my stalker photography of other people's bikes that I see around town.

Roll-Monroe-Co

185 mm!!!!!

Veloria

: )))

JohnDThompson 

Bring the bike with you next time you're in Northeastern Wisconsin and I'd be glad to help set it up for you. Surely you'll be here for a Packer game sometime soon, right?

mickey85

Packers? Ack!

Anyway, it looks as though these might be riveted (too bad), but check these:

https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ank-crank_road

It's the cottered look, with the cotterless ease...although they're steel.

Here's an alloy that's bolted on:
https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ank-crank_road

Remove the big ring and you'd be set.

Veloria

John, I had to look up what a "Packer game" was - does that answer your question : )
(Yes, I live in my own world! Don't get out much.)

Let me calculate how long it will take to cycle to Wisconsin (on that 3-speed) and I'll get back to you!

archashwell

Having looked more closely at your chaincase, it's pretty obvious that you'd need a swaged-arm type. The alloy arm with integral spider has a lot of material at the arm-spider transition, and I doubt you'd find one with clearance through the chaincase hole, even if it were a single-ring type, and the chainline worked out great.

Cranks, BBs, chainline and frame clearance are one of the more complicated bike equipment issues to begin with, and adding the chaincase to that simply increases the number of variables and constraints. It's fine if you are working with a resourceful shop who will do trial-and-error with various components to make things work (without charging you for any of them except the successful solution) -- but doing this without making a hobby out of it, will probably be more frustration than you want, especially if your mechanic has better things to do.

ColonelJLloyd 

I don't doubt the CatEye pedals are good, rather that they do the aesthetics of your bike as much a disservice as the crank (more so in my opinion). The MKS rubber block pedals look very nice. I've used MKS Lambda pedals with Tioga spikes and the MKS Sylvan with half clips on city bikes; both work well with nearly any shoe and look good enough.

+1
I suspect changing the pedals and dustcap before changing the crankset will make you feel differently about the looks of this bike.

rhm

Oh, this is easy. I would send you two crank arms, that look very approximately like this: By "very approximately" I mean you get two arms (that don't look like the above), one of which is attached to the five-legged spider (also different), to which you need to attach the ring you want.

I don't have a 42T ring for you; so you need to buy one, such as these:

You also need to buy a set of five little bolts that connect them. They look like this, just without that spacer ring. To connect them you need a 5 mm allen wrench.

That brings us the question of spacing. With the correct BB spindle, you should be able to get the right side crank arm to fit inside your chaincase without rubbing anything. What the correct spindle will be, I don't know; but we can figure that out if you want. All clear (so far)?

mkeller234

I was just about to recommend a vintage Sugino maxy, the five point version. I think those can be purchased for a small amount of money. I think they are pretty nice looking.

Like this:

rhm

^Yup, the one I'm offering looks more or less like that. Same overall proportions and dimensions, but different styling.