For the love of English 3 speeds...
06-05-17, 05:13 PM
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@arty dave The chain guard was solid but badly pitted. I wire brushed off the loose rust, used spray paint as a filler , like 10 coats , wet sanded until I got a reasonably smooth surface. Then I used rubbing compound not polish for the finish coat so the repaint wouldn't stand out as much. For a couple years, Raleigh used mismatched logos on the DL-1. Always looked odd to me, so I used the earlier method of using the same transfer as the downtube. Those modern vinyl transfers look pretty good. I bet they'll hold up a lot better than the original varnish transfers.
06-06-17, 04:33 AM
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Thanks @ BigChief & @gster. Your glider is slick. I can't wait to see how it progresses.
The 2-speed kickback takes practice. You don't really "kick" back, cause if you do you'll slam on the coaster brake and skid. Mr. VV did that as he cruised down the driveway!
It's a very small "flick" - doesn't take more than that. Another thing I noted is that when I'm coasting, if I move my pedals backwards even a very slight amount the gears change. So if I just want to coast and not shift a gear, I must keep my feet perfectly still.
I am going to have to experiment on how to apply the coaster brake and not shift a gear. I think I can't be tentative with the coaster brake. I need to commit and apply brakes more rapidly.
The other thing is having your foot in the correct position when you stop. On a traditionally geared bike I stop, then do a quick backpedal with my left foot to get my "starting" pedal in the correct position. Can't do that on this bike. You just apply the brake. I'll just be mindful to have my left pedal in the correct position when I stop.
The kick-back hub comes with a 22t dished cog, but I went with a dished 18 tooth cog. I want the harder gear to be my usual gear and the easier one for hills.
Now about the saddle. The B67 S was reportedly only ridden a total of "5 times", and sellers wife didn't like the springs. There are two deep "sit bones" divots on this saddle, so either she road it soaking wet or her 5 rides were really long. You can tell by the stiffness of the leather that's it's very new, but not sure how those divots got there.
The 2-speed kickback takes practice. You don't really "kick" back, cause if you do you'll slam on the coaster brake and skid. Mr. VV did that as he cruised down the driveway!
It's a very small "flick" - doesn't take more than that. Another thing I noted is that when I'm coasting, if I move my pedals backwards even a very slight amount the gears change. So if I just want to coast and not shift a gear, I must keep my feet perfectly still.
I am going to have to experiment on how to apply the coaster brake and not shift a gear. I think I can't be tentative with the coaster brake. I need to commit and apply brakes more rapidly.
The other thing is having your foot in the correct position when you stop. On a traditionally geared bike I stop, then do a quick backpedal with my left foot to get my "starting" pedal in the correct position. Can't do that on this bike. You just apply the brake. I'll just be mindful to have my left pedal in the correct position when I stop.
The kick-back hub comes with a 22t dished cog, but I went with a dished 18 tooth cog. I want the harder gear to be my usual gear and the easier one for hills.
Now about the saddle. The B67 S was reportedly only ridden a total of "5 times", and sellers wife didn't like the springs. There are two deep "sit bones" divots on this saddle, so either she road it soaking wet or her 5 rides were really long. You can tell by the stiffness of the leather that's it's very new, but not sure how those divots got there.
It does require a different riding style.
06-06-17, 05:51 AM
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@Velocivixen, it sounds like Duomatics are more forgiving than the SA when it comes to coasting and not changing gears. I have about an inch or two of travel before the brake engages, causing a shift. You soon get used to the leg positioning tricks, especially with the aid of the front brake. Really nice looking bike, you do good work.
06-06-17, 08:27 AM
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@gster - that is interesting and makes a lot of sense. Was it Fitchel (sp) & Sachs who created the first kickback? Seems like it was someone other than the Sturmey & Archer boys.
@clubman - Thank you for the compliment.
I've used naval jelly to remove small amount of rust where the paint is scratched, and want to prevent further rust. What would you recommend? Clear nail polish or clear lacquer? For some reason I sense that lacquer would be shinier. There is a hobby store nearby that has a plethora of lacquers in small bottles.
@clubman - Thank you for the compliment.
I've used naval jelly to remove small amount of rust where the paint is scratched, and want to prevent further rust. What would you recommend? Clear nail polish or clear lacquer? For some reason I sense that lacquer would be shinier. There is a hobby store nearby that has a plethora of lacquers in small bottles.
06-06-17, 09:36 AM
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It appears Bendix made their 'automatic' 2 speeds in the early 60's while both SA and F&S came out in the mid 60's. Not that long ago really.
06-06-17, 09:49 AM
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Bendix originally made their 2-speed with a shift lever that looked a lot like a handbrake. Later they made the kickback versions, but not for folding bikes, just because the hub already employed a coaster brake anyway. They were available with 36 holes. The hubs for the 20" wheels are more rare as they were made later for the 'Stingrays' and the like, not folding bikes!
06-06-17, 09:50 AM
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@gster - that is interesting and makes a lot of sense. Was it Fitchel (sp) & Sachs who created the first kickback? Seems like it was someone other than the Sturmey & Archer boys.
@clubman - Thank you for the compliment.
I've used naval jelly to remove small amount of rust where the paint is scratched, and want to prevent further rust. What would you recommend? Clear nail polish or clear lacquer? For some reason I sense that lacquer would be shinier. There is a hobby store nearby that has a plethora of lacquers in small bottles.
@clubman - Thank you for the compliment.
I've used naval jelly to remove small amount of rust where the paint is scratched, and want to prevent further rust. What would you recommend? Clear nail polish or clear lacquer? For some reason I sense that lacquer would be shinier. There is a hobby store nearby that has a plethora of lacquers in small bottles.
-1.jpg
06-06-17, 06:21 PM
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Bendix originally made their 2-speed with a shift lever that looked a lot like a handbrake. Later they made the kickback versions, but not for folding bikes, just because the hub already employed a coaster brake anyway. They were available with 36 holes. The hubs for the 20" wheels are more rare as they were made later for the 'Stingrays' and the like, not folding bikes!
06-06-17, 07:24 PM
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I thought I remembered those Bendix kick backs from further back than the mid 60s. One internet source says they were introduced in 1960. They had this amusing ad.
How things change...Now us 3 speeders are "with it" and she's still a kid in a silly hat.
How things change...Now us 3 speeders are "with it" and she's still a kid in a silly hat.
06-06-17, 07:48 PM
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Wonder how much a working, used Bendix would cost?
I am having a lot of fun on this little bike. In fact, whoever here told my my wobbly feeling pedal was due to a bent crank arm was right. @gugie was able to help it a little, but I don't know if he had a "cheater pipe". The NDS crankarm is slightly bent toward midline of the bike. It is notably improved, so I don't know if it's worth it for me to remove and have my LBS give it a go. I do know they have some long cheater bars.
I am having a lot of fun on this little bike. In fact, whoever here told my my wobbly feeling pedal was due to a bent crank arm was right. @gugie was able to help it a little, but I don't know if he had a "cheater pipe". The NDS crankarm is slightly bent toward midline of the bike. It is notably improved, so I don't know if it's worth it for me to remove and have my LBS give it a go. I do know they have some long cheater bars.
06-06-17, 08:27 PM
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Wonder how much a working, used Bendix would cost?
I am having a lot of fun on this little bike. In fact, whoever here told my my wobbly feeling pedal was due to a bent crank arm was right. @gugie was able to help it a little, but I don't know if he had a "cheater pipe". The NDS crankarm is slightly bent toward midline of the bike. It is notably improved, so I don't know if it's worth it for me to remove and have my LBS give it a go. I do know they have some long cheater bars.
I am having a lot of fun on this little bike. In fact, whoever here told my my wobbly feeling pedal was due to a bent crank arm was right. @gugie was able to help it a little, but I don't know if he had a "cheater pipe". The NDS crankarm is slightly bent toward midline of the bike. It is notably improved, so I don't know if it's worth it for me to remove and have my LBS give it a go. I do know they have some long cheater bars.
Last edited by BigChief; 06-06-17 at 08:42 PM.
06-06-17, 10:44 PM
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@BigChief - do you just remove the pedal then ? I don't have a bench vice. I could slide a long thick pipe over the crank arm, sit on the floor with my feet against bottom bracket and push with my legs and pull the pipe. Would the bike bend before the crankarm? What size and type of pipe should I get?
06-07-17, 04:30 AM
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Yeah, I take the pedal off and use a 3 ft long 1 1/2" pipe. I like 1 1/2" because there's plenty of room to fold up some cardboard and use it as a cushion so the edge of the pipe doesn't dig into the crank arm as I apply pressure. I could have enlisted my wife to hold the bike for me but I always have a handy wood pile to lean the bike up against. I hold the seat tube with one hand and pull the pipe with the other. These arms bend easier than you would think.
06-07-17, 05:06 AM
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Yeah, I take the pedal off and use a 3 ft long 1 1/2" pipe. I like 1 1/2" because there's plenty of room to fold up some cardboard and use it as a cushion so the edge of the pipe doesn't dig into the crank arm as I apply pressure. I could have enlisted my wife to hold the bike for me but I always have a handy wood pile to lean the bike up against. I hold the seat tube with one hand and pull the pipe with the other. These arms bend easier than you would think.
06-07-17, 06:42 AM
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I forgot to mention. The best check is to put the pedal back and test ride, but you can save some time by holding a spare crank arm against the one you're adjusting. When the light between the two arms is symmetrical like this, you're close. This arm was badly bent. I took this picture before I did the test ride and it was spot on. No wobble. Didn't need any further bending.
06-07-17, 08:20 AM
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Good morning @BigChief - thank you! Now I gotta go buy a pipe. I work for a plumbing co., so I bet I could borrow a pipe! 
I don't have a spare exact crank arm, but I've got metal rulers & digital calipers.
I presume this won't hurt the heavy bb spindle?
I don't have a spare exact crank arm, but I've got metal rulers & digital calipers.
I presume this won't hurt the heavy bb spindle?
06-07-17, 09:46 AM
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The arms aren't that strong. No worries about damaging the BB. The thing to worry about is bending the arm out more than you intended because you can only bend outward with the pipe. That's why you do so much checking. Bend a little, check a lot. Besides a visual check against a straight crank arm, you could also put the pedal back, put the bike on the rack and test the pedal up against down with a bubble level. Although, it might be easier to just test ride it each time.
Last edited by BigChief; 06-07-17 at 09:51 AM.
06-07-17, 09:48 AM
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They vary from $5 to $75 depending on where you find them. BTW you will want the blue band, not the red or yellow. The blue band is an overdrive unit and is more suited to use with 20" wheels. Expect to rebuild the unit!
I've managed to straighten cranks arms without damage to the bearings or spindle. Think about what it took to bend it in the first place 
Good morning @BigChief - thank you! Now I gotta go buy a pipe. I work for a plumbing co., so I bet I could borrow a pipe!
I don't have a spare exact crank arm, but I've got metal rulers & digital calipers.
I presume this won't hurt the heavy bb spindle?
I don't have a spare exact crank arm, but I've got metal rulers & digital calipers.
I presume this won't hurt the heavy bb spindle?
06-07-17, 12:59 PM
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They vary from $5 to $75 depending on where you find them. BTW you will want the blue band, not the red or yellow. The blue band is an overdrive unit and is more suited to use with 20" wheels. Expect to rebuild the unit!
I've managed to straighten cranks arms without damage to the bearings or spindle. Think about what it took to bend it in the first place
I've managed to straighten cranks arms without damage to the bearings or spindle. Think about what it took to bend it in the first place
06-07-17, 06:44 PM
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I forgot to mention. The best check is to put the pedal back and test ride, but you can save some time by holding a spare crank arm against the one you're adjusting. When the light between the two arms is symmetrical like this, you're close. This arm was badly bent. I took this picture before I did the test ride and it was spot on. No wobble. Didn't need any further bending.
Thanks
06-08-17, 01:09 PM
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Does anyone know how to use a coaster brake with a kickback hub, without causing it to shift gears? Is it even possible? Do I need more practice & finess?
No biggie. Just curious.
No biggie. Just curious.
06-08-17, 01:43 PM
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When I was a kid, a friend had a Bendix 2 speed hub on his bike (all bikes had Bendix coaster brake hubs in those days, or so it seems). As I recall, if you back pedaled about 1/8 turn you would shift; any further and you would brake.
I remember always being in a different gear after braking though; I mean that every braking shifted gears, but that could be dumb kid stuff.
I remember always being in a different gear after braking though; I mean that every braking shifted gears, but that could be dumb kid stuff.
06-08-17, 02:13 PM
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06-08-17, 04:16 PM
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@Salubrious - ok, yeah that makes sense. I'll just practice that.