Lotus Aero cleanup/ service advice please
#26
Senior Member
The post I wish I had found earlier...
seems to suggest I can change the bolt type on this crankset? or in anycase not use the self extracing "mode" it was orignally designed for. After, I can glue the stripped cap back in place for looks...
@ Duragrouch, the helicoil idea as i understand it would perhaps require more material than is present on the Spider in the area where the tap would widen the hole???
Cheers!!
seems to suggest I can change the bolt type on this crankset? or in anycase not use the self extracing "mode" it was orignally designed for. After, I can glue the stripped cap back in place for looks...
@ Duragrouch, the helicoil idea as i understand it would perhaps require more material than is present on the Spider in the area where the tap would widen the hole???
Cheers!!
Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-26-24 at 10:18 PM.
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#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
Hi,
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
how to best de-rust this area?
should i replace this cup, or try to get it looking good again (the inside bearing wear seems not to compromise the cup)
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
- why cannot I just tap out the spindle with a hammer from the other side, if I support the spider correctly?
- Would you guys do so?
- Can i put different pedals on these crank arms?
- rust treatment ideas? (see photos below)
- Any other ideas/advice?
- Duragrouch I see your point about the helicoil likely having enough meat there f.. but it's above my paygrade for now - and i think could be done later- thanks!!
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
how to best de-rust this area?
should i replace this cup, or try to get it looking good again (the inside bearing wear seems not to compromise the cup)
#28
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 18,162
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
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Hi,
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
how to best de-rust this area?
should i replace this cup, or try to get it looking good again (the inside bearing wear seems not to compromise the cup)
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
- why cannot I just tap out the spindle with a hammer from the other side, if I support the spider correctly?
- Would you guys do so?
- Can i put different pedals on these crank arms?
- rust treatment ideas? (see photos below)
- Any other ideas/advice?
- Duragrouch I see your point about the helicoil likely having enough meat there f.. but it's above my paygrade for now - and i think could be done later- thanks!!
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
how to best de-rust this area?
should i replace this cup, or try to get it looking good again (the inside bearing wear seems not to compromise the cup)
2) No, because I spent a surprisingly small amount for chuck wedges.
3) Yes. $38 plus shipping will get you a pair of adapters that thread into those big holes and let you used standard pedals. Just seach Ebay Cycling for "Dyna Drive Adapters". I use 'em on my Lotus Supreme, which has the same crankset.
4) Two kinds of rust on a bike - surface rust and rusted bare metal. If it's surface rust on the paint, you can get that off with something like Meguiar's Scratch-X, which you'll want to use on the paint anyway to get rid of oxidation and make it shine. The there kind, like where paint chipped off and rust attacked, I used a product called Kurust, which bills itself as a "Rust converter". Carefully apply to the rust spots, allow to work for 15 minutes or so. It will leave a blackish spot, which you can paint over.
Rust in the BB shell? I'd take a wirebrush to it. Then grease the hell out of it.
5) Best advice I can give is - only work on it when you're calm. Seriously.
Rusty cable guides, I'd treat with Kurust and then paint with matching Testors, if you can find it. Or nail polish.
Regarding the headset, if you're going all AX, maybe you can find one of the Shimano AX headsets, or the EX, which is probably the same, and see if you can find the plastic cover.
__________________
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"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
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#29
Senior Member
Hi,
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:
- why cannot I just tap out the spindle with a hammer from the other side, if I support the spider correctly?
- Would you guys do so?
- Can i put different pedals on these crank arms?
- rust treatment ideas? (see photos below)
- Any other ideas/advice?
- Duragrouch I see your point about the helicoil likely having enough meat there f.. but it's above my paygrade for now - and i think could be done later- thanks!!
Peter
rust in here..scary or typical?
The rust inside the bottom bracket shell is not scary. What's a little scary to me is how little thread depth on the back side due to how they joined the chainstays, looks like swaged outward radially from the shell so the chainstays fit around that swage and then weld. I could be wrong but I think most bikes have only a hole for the seat tube, I think to let drain any water that makes it past the seatpost, provided there is a small drain hole on the bottom of the BB shell, otherwise that water will go into the bearings. But the remaining threads, much deeper, provides adequate threads to hold the cups.
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