Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#4301
Senior Member
#4302
Senior Member
This is my first foray on to smaller (38) bars from Pro Vibe 7s 42's that I have been trying to replace for a while now. I have no doubts I may go smaller eventually but for now this is a decent compromise. Plus, because I've picked them up second hand I could hopefully sell them on without much loss if I do change them.
#4303
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I think liking the narrowness of the bars has a lot to do with your upper body build. I always rode the widest bars you could find on the road as I have a really wide chest and shoulders. My chest is 52"s and if you asked me to make a fist and hold my hands straight out in front of me, it is 42-43cm between my fist. Therefore with 42cm bars it was a straight shot from my shoulders to my hands and it felt right. First time I held 38cm bars, I had to pull my hands in and it felt funny, but I got used to them after awhile and just switched my road bike over to 38's as well as my track bike. I have tried 35's before and they are just too narrow for me and I really have to pull my hands in which does start to feel like it's pinching my breathing. Even with the 38's, they still feel a bit narrow when getting out of the saddle to climb the bridges or hills. If I weighed 150 lbs and had a 42" or smaller chest, I think the 35 would feel great, but there is a point where going too narrow becomes counter productive. What works best for you is not always what works best for others....even if it may look that way on paper. Best way to know is to get out and ride with the various width bars and see what feels right.
#4304
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ruidlaf you will have a hard time selling them.
Dive, this is track, not road. The aero benefits during short track races outweigh the discomfort when compared to wider bars.
Recall that it's also more comfortable to ride in an upright position. We ride bent over for the same reasons.
Dive, this is track, not road. The aero benefits during short track races outweigh the discomfort when compared to wider bars.
Recall that it's also more comfortable to ride in an upright position. We ride bent over for the same reasons.
#4307
Senior Member
#4309
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Another thing is that the deep drop of the B123 came as a result of tall head tubes of bikes of that era. So riders needed to get their hands low. The EC90 sprint bars replicate that drop.
Now, bikes have moderate to low head tubes, so no need to get low. So when you use those bars with a modern bike, you have to stack spacers and use a upward rising stem.
When shallow bars like the Scatto were launched, they were a hit because the stem stack was lower and a stem could be run negative/flat.
I rode them with a 15cm head tube
Now, bikes have moderate to low head tubes, so no need to get low. So when you use those bars with a modern bike, you have to stack spacers and use a upward rising stem.
When shallow bars like the Scatto were launched, they were a hit because the stem stack was lower and a stem could be run negative/flat.
I rode them with a 15cm head tube
#4310
Lapped 3x
Ruudlaff, I might pick them up from you when the time comes. Just PM me when you're looking to "trade" for something else. I have the Sakae Keirin Flats, and the EC 90s are very close to those in terms of shape.
#4312
Lapped 3x
Those EC90 bars, if they are the ones that are the "ergo" model, with the flats in the middle of the drops, then they are based off of the Sakae FX NJS bars. The round EC90s may be based off of the Nitto B123.
#4313
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Track cranks & powermeter for Felt TK FRD
Hi, I'm new here, relatively new to track racing and would appreciate any help. I'm building up a Felt TK FRD for my junior son who will be focusing on pursuit events. He started racing track in April, raced a borrowed bike at Junior Worlds a couple weeks ago and now this is to be his bike for the coming seasons. I'm trying to find a crankset/powermeter combination that will work well and ideally be aero. I've come up with 3 options. The Felt is BSA threaded.
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
#4314
Senior Member
Looks like ergo, based on pictures:
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easton-EC90-Pro-Carbon-Track-Handlebars-38cm-/182744863096?txnId=1704030700008#vi__app-cvip-panel
#4315
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Hi, I'm new here, relatively new to track racing and would appreciate any help. I'm building up a Felt TK FRD for my junior son who will be focusing on pursuit events. He started racing track in April, raced a borrowed bike at Junior Worlds a couple weeks ago and now this is to be his bike for the coming seasons. I'm trying to find a crankset/powermeter combination that will work well and ideally be aero. I've come up with 3 options. The Felt is BSA threaded.
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
* That power on the track bike is a nice luxury, but not a necessity.
* Time, speed and cadence can provide almost all the metrics one needs to improve.
* If one is going to go with power, they should go ahead and go with one of the SRM options.
#4316
aka mattio
I use a Dura Ace Stages. It works aight. Given how Stages works, I don't put too much stock for its ability to be super-precise with short efforts, but for tracking my power throughout a race, it's pretty helpful.
Another option is a 110mm bcd Quarq (comes in 165 and 170) with a 110->144bcd plate adaptor.
Another option is a 110mm bcd Quarq (comes in 165 and 170) with a 110->144bcd plate adaptor.
#4317
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Hi, I'm new here, relatively new to track racing and would appreciate any help. I'm building up a Felt TK FRD for my junior son who will be focusing on pursuit events. He started racing track in April, raced a borrowed bike at Junior Worlds a couple weeks ago and now this is to be his bike for the coming seasons. I'm trying to find a crankset/powermeter combination that will work well and ideally be aero. I've come up with 3 options. The Felt is BSA threaded.
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
1. Rotor 3D24 Crankset, with SRM or Power2Max power meter. Issues: SRM is very $$$ and Power2Max has no availability until their new model comes in - which has no ETA
2. Vision Track Crankset. I believe (to be confirmed) that I can fit a Stages FSA386EVO crankarm power meter to the Vision crankset. But I haven't found anyone with knowledge of this crankset in use. This crankset is 386EVO, there are numerous BB options to mate to the BSA threads.
3. Dura Ace with Stages (or SRM for that matter)
I would greatly appreciate any advice or thoughts on the relative merits of these options. Anyone used the Vision Crankset?
thanks!
If you are building a system for your son to use for several years, invest in an SRM kit. It's worth it in the short term and especially in the long term.
You can buy alternate crank arms with different lengths for the SRM track crankset for $200/pair. I'd imagine that as an aspiring pursuiter, he will be experimenting with crank lengths as well as other parts of the bike. To put that into perspective, a new set of Dura Ace crank arms costs $400-450/set.
You change the drive-side crank arm by using a star nut wrench and remove the crank arm from the power meter spider. You will then have to recalibrate it. It's not hard. I've done it in my living room. Or you can simply mail it in to SRM and have them do it. Let left side crank arm is removed like any other crank arm.
Buy the kit with the PC7 head unit. Not the PC8 (much more expensive). The 7 has all of the same data, it's just older.
Last edited by carleton; 09-05-17 at 08:55 AM.
#4319
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I have a PC7 (my 2nd one, actually) and it only records as fast as 2x/second (2Hz). I *think* (not sure) that the PC8 only records every second. There is no option to change the recording rate in the software PDF.
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thoughts on flared out road handlebars for track? anybody here use them?
https://ritcheylogic.com/comp-evomax-road-bar
https://ritcheylogic.com/comp-evomax-road-bar
#4322
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I use a road bar that has a few degrees of flare. Not as dramatic as those pictured, but I can't imagine there would be any issue as long as they're the right width at the drops.
#4324
Full Member
It's really personal preference, but in a good exchange the two bikes lean away from each other so the bodies can be as close as possible. Generally, the closer the center of mass of the two riders become, the more efficient and the safe the exchange. Some riders tend to hit their forearms on the upper bend when they lean their bikes and might find a flared drop useful.
#4325
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If you are building a system for your son to use for several years, invest in an SRM kit. It's worth it in the short term and especially in the long term.
You can buy alternate crank arms with different lengths for the SRM track crankset for $200/pair. I'd imagine that as an aspiring pursuiter, he will be experimenting with crank lengths as well as other parts of the bike. To put that into perspective, a new set of Dura Ace crank arms costs $400-450/set.
You change the drive-side crank arm by using a star nut wrench and remove the crank arm from the power meter spider. You will then have to recalibrate it. It's not hard. I've done it in my living room. Or you can simply mail it in to SRM and have them do it. Let left side crank arm is removed like any other crank arm.
Buy the kit with the PC7 head unit. Not the PC8 (much more expensive). The 7 has all of the same data, it's just older.
You can buy alternate crank arms with different lengths for the SRM track crankset for $200/pair. I'd imagine that as an aspiring pursuiter, he will be experimenting with crank lengths as well as other parts of the bike. To put that into perspective, a new set of Dura Ace crank arms costs $400-450/set.
You change the drive-side crank arm by using a star nut wrench and remove the crank arm from the power meter spider. You will then have to recalibrate it. It's not hard. I've done it in my living room. Or you can simply mail it in to SRM and have them do it. Let left side crank arm is removed like any other crank arm.
Buy the kit with the PC7 head unit. Not the PC8 (much more expensive). The 7 has all of the same data, it's just older.
Also, and maybe you already knew this - I got a reply back from Stages tech support to say that their track and road powermeter models have different firmware and so only the track-specific Dura Ace model was recommended for track use. Apparently the road models can't handle the reversed load from back-pedalling in track environments. So my idea to use an FSA Stages crankarm on the Vision crankset wouldn't work in any case.
SRM it is.
Thanks again