Cinelli model 64 vs. Nitto Noodle model. 177
#26
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I get them way up, try to have them so the transition is ramped up towards me with the least "crook" so I'm leaning on, not in it.
But that's just me.
But that's just me.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got around to doing the little things on the bike I had hoped to get to. Lighter tubes, new bar, stem and tape, new cables and housing, repacked headset and rear hub, and trued the rear wheel a bit. One of my tubes got a snake bite (I think) and exploded like a gunshot. Whoops. Thankfully I had 3.
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#29
Senior Member
That set up looks very good to me. I think the maes bend is the right choice for that bike. Better for general purpose and long distance. Please let us know how you like the backward sweep of the noodles. It always seemed like it would bother me. If anything my wrists want to go the other way when on top. Perhaps most people don't ever ride the tops anymore?
FWIW the rule I was taught BITD was the tips of the levers could anywhere from just touching the ruler held along the bottom of the bars, to maybe a cm above it. By default I generally split the difference and set them at ~ 4-5mm above. That was a pretty typical standard position. Like RiddleOfSteel says, lower favors hands when riding in the drops, higher favors the hoods. If you are a fast descender, you may even like dropping the tips below the plane of the drops. Some Italian pros were still setting their bars up this way in the 70s.
FWIW the rule I was taught BITD was the tips of the levers could anywhere from just touching the ruler held along the bottom of the bars, to maybe a cm above it. By default I generally split the difference and set them at ~ 4-5mm above. That was a pretty typical standard position. Like RiddleOfSteel says, lower favors hands when riding in the drops, higher favors the hoods. If you are a fast descender, you may even like dropping the tips below the plane of the drops. Some Italian pros were still setting their bars up this way in the 70s.
#30
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
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That set up looks very good to me. I think the maes bend is the right choice for that bike. Better for general purpose and long distance. Please let us know how you like the backward sweep of the noodles. It always seemed like it would bother me. If anything my wrists want to go the other way when on top. Perhaps most people don't ever ride the tops anymore?
FWIW the rule I was taught BITD was the tips of the levers could anywhere from just touching the ruler held along the bottom of the bars, to maybe a cm above it. By default I generally split the difference and set them at ~ 4-5mm above. That was a pretty typical standard position. Like RiddleOfSteel says, lower favors hands when riding in the drops, higher favors the hoods. If you are a fast descender, you may even like dropping the tips below the plane of the drops. Some Italian pros were still setting their bars up this way in the 70s.
FWIW the rule I was taught BITD was the tips of the levers could anywhere from just touching the ruler held along the bottom of the bars, to maybe a cm above it. By default I generally split the difference and set them at ~ 4-5mm above. That was a pretty typical standard position. Like RiddleOfSteel says, lower favors hands when riding in the drops, higher favors the hoods. If you are a fast descender, you may even like dropping the tips below the plane of the drops. Some Italian pros were still setting their bars up this way in the 70s.
looks a bit wack but works very well for me, mine are wide ones which seems to accentuate all of it and work even better for having more real estate to work with.
You have to ignore what you see and become one with the noodle.
I love them.
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