cc700

even if you're not you can use spacers and a mtb crank. it's not optimal but it works.

yummygooey

So... what doesn't clear? The chainring or the crank arm or both?

I suppose Omnium clearance is out of the question unless I get a non-sucky frame.

evilcryalotmore

Well cant you get a bb with longer spindles?

Squirrelli

Chain line issues. Even if you put the ring on the inside, the ring would still probably hit the frame.

yummygooey

Chainline, bro.

Edit: TOO SLOW

evilcryalotmore

Oh darn, right. At that point you have no choice but skinny crank arms and 44t :| that sucks,

calbob76

is it not possible to have it crimped by a frame builder or something like that?

Leukybear 

Aluminum does not play fair game....

cc700

aluminum like the a6 altair or whatever they call it gets a lot of its strength from the heat treating process after being shaped. once you do that, it's going to fatigue and lose a little more and more of its strength. a frame builder would probably be able to heat that section of the stay hot enough with the right duration so that it could be crimped and re heat cycled and it would still be rideable, but at what cost to frame life i don't know and with what percentage of failure i don't know.

it could be done but the skill and engineering that would go into it make no sense for a mass produced frame like this... just get another frame.

unless you're riding it around the street and 44t is fine.... or unless you want to get fsa carbon cranks anyway...

mjf595

maybe someone can clarify this for me. Just bought an ftp, and with all the discussion about crimped/non-crimped chainstays, I haven't seen what a non crimped would look like in comparison.



Thanks!

Squirrelli

Congratulation, that looks like it's crimped. An uncrimped one has no indentation between the bottom bracket and that Fuji logo on the chain stay.

mjf595

After reading, and rereading this thread, and many others, I just couldn't possibly be sure!

Thanks!

cc700

has anyone gotten an uncrimped frame who ordered it discounted on nashbar?

i'm beginning to think they are all crimped but it's the seatmast issue that is causing the dump. i guess just never ever ever change your saddle....

Scrodzilla

Which is most likely going to be really tough for you.

evilcryalotmore

Well when you cut it just cut sections off the cutt pieces like a steerer tube spacer,

Wait i have a feeling i dont understand the seatmast issue, whats the issue?

mjf595

I would like to see the differences myself from people who have one or the other.

That way we could at the very least compare the two

hamish5178

So what you're trying to say is that the un-crimped ones are not crimped? Am I reading this right?

Scrodzilla

No, the non-crimped one is crimped. It's the crimped one that isn't crimped.

yummygooey

This.

Mine's was supposed to come yesterday but I wasn't home, so it's coming on Tuesday.

homebrewk

Yeah. I really don't understand why people have problem with the seatmast.

cc700

the seatmast is cut to a certain height but then the seat clamp has about an inch and a half of space inbetween the top of the two bolts and the top of the clamp

https://iucycling.com/_.htaccess/500/...st_Closeup.jpg

that space is supposed to be for fine tuning to give you a little bit of adjustability if you change your saddle or crank length. Problem is, it doesn't work and the only safe way to use it is to slam the clamp all the way down onto the seatmast and then tighten it, so that they mast takes a lot of the force of you sitting and the bolts don't have to clamp so hard. basically, they made the clamp mechanism too loose around the mast and it doesn't adjust at all, it just sits on top so the only means of adjusting is by cutting the seatmast, which has to happen right the first time and then can't be raised up if you, say, get shorter crank arms. I plan on measuring it out with 165's and a tall saddle like the turbo, that way I'm only increasing my knee bend if i switch to my arione and 165's, and not by that much. i'd rather have a saddle that's too low than too high. hyperextended knees are unhappy.

evilcryalotmore

Well then, you can just cut spacers from the other half of the seatmast. like 1 inch or 2cm spacers right?

cc700

no, the seatmast can't be in pieces inside the clamp because that would compromise the structural integrity of the clamp.

think of wrapping paper mache around a 1' pipe, then hammering on the top of it. not gonna break unless you hammer hard enough to break the pipe.

now wrap two 6" pipes stacked on top of each other in paper mache. hammer and tell me the paper mache won't break. it will.

once you cut the seatmast it's done, you'll never get that frame to have a higher seat. forget about resale value to anyone with longer legs than you, and if you mess up cutting the mast then your only option is longer crank arms or a new frame. or a brooks saddle with stupid tall rails.

kevvwill

Also note that Fuji made a running change to the seat mast design. The first-generation bikes that my teammates have all slip and/or creak. My crimped one also came with a different seat mast assembly that doesn't move or creak. Sighhh ....

homebrewk

It seems to me like the bad things outweigh the good things on this bike and it's not worth riding.