Px-10?
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Mike J
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I'd say it's about a 1974 PA-10E, according to this catalog.https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broch...0Page%2015.jpg
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Just popped up on craigslist for a low price, I was just curious if it was worth my drive.
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#5
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If it is your size and rides similarly to my PX10 then I would grab it now and ride with some different brake levers.
Last edited by Narhay; 02-19-18 at 02:07 PM.
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It looks to be taller than the 58cm advertised. Looking again, I think Narhay is correct, that it's a PR-10, catalog spec'd at 23lbs vs the PX-10's 21lbs. Not as original as claimed, but still, a nice pickup for $160. I mean, component-wise, there's good value in the wheelset, saddle, crankset, seatpost, and calipers. If you were putting together a bike, you'd spend a bit more than $160 for just those.
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It could be a PA10 if the crankset was upgraded, but it's more likely a PR10. It's definitely not a PX10. If you want to be sure, get a measurement for the seat post diameter.
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I was thinking the same thing
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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Just came here to say: Fork is possibly bent. Pretty sure it's a PA10. PR10 would have a larger-diameter seat post in the high 26mm range. PA10 would have a steel post in the lower 25mm range, if memory serves.
Even if the fork is bent, seat, barcons and brakes should net over $100 on eBay (or even here) and could potentially justify buying. Be sure to inspect for cracked lugs and DO hanger hacking and use both as possible haggle-down.
Even if the fork is bent, seat, barcons and brakes should net over $100 on eBay (or even here) and could potentially justify buying. Be sure to inspect for cracked lugs and DO hanger hacking and use both as possible haggle-down.
#12
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Just came here to say: Fork is possibly bent. Pretty sure it's a PA10. PR10 would have a larger-diameter seat post in the high 26mm range. PA10 would have a steel post in the lower 25mm range, if memory serves.
Even if the fork is bent, seat, barcons and brakes should net over $100 on eBay (or even here) and could potentially justify buying. Be sure to inspect for cracked lugs and DO hanger hacking and use both as possible haggle-down.
Even if the fork is bent, seat, barcons and brakes should net over $100 on eBay (or even here) and could potentially justify buying. Be sure to inspect for cracked lugs and DO hanger hacking and use both as possible haggle-down.
Fork does look a bit too vertical now that I see it. Regardless, as a part-out it is worth $160.
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We know this likely isn't a PX because the fork isn't 531, it's got the crown typical of the cheaper bikes.
Last edited by francophile; 02-19-18 at 05:21 PM.
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If those are straight Mavic Championnat Du Monde tubular rims & Normandy hubs, there's $100. for the pair.
Stronglight crank set perhaps $75.?
Brooks saddle $50.
My original PX-10 seat post is 26.4.
Stronglight crank set perhaps $75.?
Brooks saddle $50.
My original PX-10 seat post is 26.4.
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I think it's the frame that's bent, not the fork. Buckled so that you can feel dimples under the top and down tubes aft of the lugs. And that's probably an Ideale 80 saddle.
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Best I can tell it's a PR10 as there is a small remnant of the Reynolds 531 decal on the seat tube. BB # is 0542867, indicating 7 digits and a '70's frame, with "0" suggesting 1970. Square head badge says it's '71 as do rest of the decals match up from what I've found on line.
Stronglight crank, pedals, Mafac brake calipers, Ideale saddle, Normandy large flange hubs, and Simplex bits like drop outs, skewers, top tube cable guides, and derailleur cable guides all look right for the model. Suntour shifters and derailleurs are period correct, but are not original. Shimano brake levers gotta go.
Original paint and decals, will need clean and detail. Not sure what my plan is here. I bought it because my very first nice real 10 speed when I was a kid was a white Peugeot.
Stronglight crank, pedals, Mafac brake calipers, Ideale saddle, Normandy large flange hubs, and Simplex bits like drop outs, skewers, top tube cable guides, and derailleur cable guides all look right for the model. Suntour shifters and derailleurs are period correct, but are not original. Shimano brake levers gotta go.
Original paint and decals, will need clean and detail. Not sure what my plan is here. I bought it because my very first nice real 10 speed when I was a kid was a white Peugeot.
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Original Simplex RD hanger intact?
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PS: Excellent purchase. Great value.
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Best I can tell it's a PR10 as there is a small remnant of the Reynolds 531 decal on the seat tube. BB # is 0542867, indicating 7 digits and a '70's frame, with "0" suggesting 1970. Square head badge says it's '71 as do rest of the decals match up from what I've found on line.
Stronglight crank, pedals, Mafac brake calipers, Ideale saddle, Normandy large flange hubs, and Simplex bits like drop outs, skewers, top tube cable guides, and derailleur cable guides all look right for the model. Suntour shifters and derailleurs are period correct, but are not original. Shimano brake levers gotta go.
Original paint and decals, will need clean and detail. Not sure what my plan is here. I bought it because my very first nice real 10 speed when I was a kid was a white Peugeot.
Stronglight crank, pedals, Mafac brake calipers, Ideale saddle, Normandy large flange hubs, and Simplex bits like drop outs, skewers, top tube cable guides, and derailleur cable guides all look right for the model. Suntour shifters and derailleurs are period correct, but are not original. Shimano brake levers gotta go.
Original paint and decals, will need clean and detail. Not sure what my plan is here. I bought it because my very first nice real 10 speed when I was a kid was a white Peugeot.
'71 Peugeot PR 10: the good and the ugly
I'd lose those brake levers and get some mafacs. If you put up a WTB in the C&V sales forum, someone will sell them to you. Rustines makes hoods for them including the half hoods which are, I think, cool. The bike obviously needs a complete overhaul.
You'll have a few tough decisions. One is whether you want to keep the tubulars or go with clinchers. Tubulars are nice and you don't have to pay a bomb for them but you have to deal with gluing them on. The other is whether or not you want to go with simplex derailleurs. I did on my build and I got lucky finding some but they can be expensive especially if you want long cage ones. Personally I'd keep those derailleurs. They're period correct and they work better than the simplex ones will.
Welcome to the PR 10 club! And once you've fixed it up, you can post pics here,
Show your French bikes!
You can get a reproduction 531 sticker here
https://www.velocals.com/
Last edited by bikemig; 02-20-18 at 10:01 PM.
#23
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Thanks, it's been cleaned up just a little bit in my photos following pick up. I will have to measure the seat post properly tomorrow.
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Nice find, it will be a great riding bike and should look great as well.
Those levers can be disassembled and have hoods fitted, what I did for a local gal here a few years back. The auxiliary levers are super-solid on these, they actually ARE the main lever and the "normal" levers act as auxiliary to those(!).
You have to cut a big hole so the screw head can rotate freely as the lever moves...
not French, and no cable adjusters, but...
Those levers can be disassembled and have hoods fitted, what I did for a local gal here a few years back. The auxiliary levers are super-solid on these, they actually ARE the main lever and the "normal" levers act as auxiliary to those(!).
You have to cut a big hole so the screw head can rotate freely as the lever moves...
not French, and no cable adjusters, but...
#25
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Very, very nice bike. I rebuilt a similar era PR 10 last summer (mine is a mid 70s) from a frame set I picked up.
'71 Peugeot PR 10: the good and the ugly
I'd lose those brake levers and get some mafacs. If you put up a WTB in the C&V sales forum, someone will sell them to you. Rustines makes hoods for them including the half hoods which are, I think, cool. The bike obviously needs a complete overhaul.
You'll have a few tough decisions. One is whether you want to keep the tubulars or go with clinchers. Tubulars are nice and you don't have to pay a bomb for them but you have to deal with gluing them on. The other is whether or not you want to go with simplex derailleurs. I did on my build and I got lucky finding some but they can be expensive especially if you want long cage ones. Personally I'd keep those derailleurs. They're period correct and they work better than the simplex ones will.
Welcome to the PR 10 club! And once you've fixed it up, you can post pics here,
Show your French bikes!
You can get a reproduction 531 sticker here
VeloCals bicycle decals - Quality, Durable, Ultra-thin
'71 Peugeot PR 10: the good and the ugly
I'd lose those brake levers and get some mafacs. If you put up a WTB in the C&V sales forum, someone will sell them to you. Rustines makes hoods for them including the half hoods which are, I think, cool. The bike obviously needs a complete overhaul.
You'll have a few tough decisions. One is whether you want to keep the tubulars or go with clinchers. Tubulars are nice and you don't have to pay a bomb for them but you have to deal with gluing them on. The other is whether or not you want to go with simplex derailleurs. I did on my build and I got lucky finding some but they can be expensive especially if you want long cage ones. Personally I'd keep those derailleurs. They're period correct and they work better than the simplex ones will.
Welcome to the PR 10 club! And once you've fixed it up, you can post pics here,
Show your French bikes!
You can get a reproduction 531 sticker here
VeloCals bicycle decals - Quality, Durable, Ultra-thin