Any 10-speed cranksets that *aren't* Hollowtech-type?
#26
Me duelen las nalgas
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You're way ahead of me. I might put out 300 watts climbing the stairs, but rarely on a bike. When I asked the LBS about whether I should get a power meter the guy who'd seen me ride said "Nah, they don't register that low."
#27
Me duelen las nalgas
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Definitely this is fearmongering. Solid cranks break too. Now if someone can come up with some overwhelming statistics that one fails more than the other.....
https://www.velonews.com/gear/techni...en-crank-arms/
Bikeville thoughts: May 2012
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-001.html
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-035.html
https://www.dracotorre.com/blog/bike-breaker-hill/
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/broken-....831123/page-2
https://felixwong.com/2004/06/bike-parts/
https://www.velonews.com/gear/techni...en-crank-arms/
Bikeville thoughts: May 2012
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-001.html
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-035.html
https://www.dracotorre.com/blog/bike-breaker-hill/
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/broken-....831123/page-2
https://felixwong.com/2004/06/bike-parts/
Because I named my Trek 5900 the Noisy Cricket.
Because of Men In Black.
Because it klunked so loudly with the original downtube index shifters, resonating like bongos in those carbon fiber tubes.
Because it was my first carbon fiber bike and I felt like I was gonna break something so lightweight.
Hey, it was funny when I came up with that a couple of years ago. To me.
Then I remembered I'm not Andre Greipel, who puts out more power going to the bathroom than I do on my bike.
Whew, what a relief.
Anyway, cranks asploding was never my primary concern. Apparently on my cheapskate budget I will never be in the market for those newer hollow bonded Ultegra and Dura Ace cranks. So, problem solved once again by poverty.
#28
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I would suggest for something new the 4700 series of Tiagra cranks as well if you want 10sp specific. Good sturdy parts. Will come in a 50/34 and 170.
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#29
Me duelen las nalgas
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Just to clarify my above post. Ultegra and DA are made from two clams shells that are glued/bonded together. Those are the ones that break from fatigue. 105 also has hollow arms and spindle, but is not bonded. Its made with hollow forged arms, that are a bit heavier but, to my knowledge, wont break. That would be my pick. Tiagra is made with solid arms and a hollow spindle. It wont break but is heavy, but fairly relatively inepensive.
EDIT: Its all in here.
https://youtu.be/FkEkQV-zK0s
EDIT: Its all in here.
https://youtu.be/FkEkQV-zK0s
I'm impressed with how much Shimano 105 and "lower" spec stuff has improved -- trickle down from early gen Dura Ace and Ultegra. I have boxes of mostly older Shimano stuff and while some of the older 105 stuff was good, others were distinctly inferior to Shimano 600/Ultegra. The 600/Ultegra stuff was so good I still use those derailleurs on a couple of bikes, and the FDs in particular offer more adjustability than the 105.
Personal anecdote: I remove Shimano cranksets from my new bikes and replace them with FSA carbon cranks. My cranks currently have about 15,000 miles on them. No issues.
https://praxiscycles.com/product/alba/ Praxis Alba
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#31
Me duelen las nalgas
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But I worry a bit less now that my weight is down around 150. I can't figure out how I managed to walk at all when I weighed 205. I get tired now just carrying 20 lbs of groceries or cat food home from the store in a backpack.
#32
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Yikes. That's why I say goodbye to Frank and the beans and thank them for a lifetime of service before every interval session with standing sprints and short, steep hill climbs.
But I worry a bit less now that my weight is down around 150. I can't figure out how I managed to walk at all when I weighed 205. I get tired now just carrying 20 lbs of groceries or cat food home from the store in a backpack.
But I worry a bit less now that my weight is down around 150. I can't figure out how I managed to walk at all when I weighed 205. I get tired now just carrying 20 lbs of groceries or cat food home from the store in a backpack.
I know another guy who played in college as a lineman and he raced at the velodrome and did pretty well.
#33
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Jobst Brandt proposed a solution to this stupidity ages ago, that would allow for backwards compatibility, and to upgrade existing cranks to a proper pedal interface.
A 45° taper cut into the crank around the pedal thread, with split collets to adapt existing pedals, while future pedals could have the taper integrated. It'd prevent this sort of utterly preventable failure caused by the fretting inherent to this piss-poor interface.
A 45° taper cut into the crank around the pedal thread, with split collets to adapt existing pedals, while future pedals could have the taper integrated. It'd prevent this sort of utterly preventable failure caused by the fretting inherent to this piss-poor interface.
He would come into my dad's shop in Palo Alto to get them replaced. At one point, my dad ordered him a steel Campagnolo crankset, which seemed to hold up much better.
Jobst Brandt (right), Kings Ridge Rd, Sonoma County, 2003
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#34
just having fun
Darth Lefty , yeah, there's an entire Instagram page devoted to pix of asploded Hollowtech cranksets. I think it's called "thanksShimano". I'm not sure how seriously to take it because they also gripe about stuff that can happen to any brand, like frayed cables.
And there's no real data available because of course Shimano isn't gonna provide that info. So while dozens of broken cranks seems like a lot, statistically it may be 1% or 2%? Who knows. And some anecdotes indicate it mostly seems to affect regions with hot, humid and/or salty air. But, still, just anecdotes without data.
Anyway, I'll probably go for another older 6700 crankset since it appears those are solid arms, or the 105 or Tiagra. I wouldn't get any real benefit from the 6800 or newer cranksets. Mostly I was just wondering what the options were for solid cranks, from Shimano or any other decent brand.
And there's no real data available because of course Shimano isn't gonna provide that info. So while dozens of broken cranks seems like a lot, statistically it may be 1% or 2%? Who knows. And some anecdotes indicate it mostly seems to affect regions with hot, humid and/or salty air. But, still, just anecdotes without data.
Anyway, I'll probably go for another older 6700 crankset since it appears those are solid arms, or the 105 or Tiagra. I wouldn't get any real benefit from the 6800 or newer cranksets. Mostly I was just wondering what the options were for solid cranks, from Shimano or any other decent brand.
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IIRC they changed the actuation ratio for 11s, but oddly they didn't increase the cable pull by very much, which still meant the cable was being wrapped around a pretty small diameter spool in the shifter, which causes fatigue. Shimano may be the best, but they sure aren't perfect.
#36
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I think it's because they kept the same RD actuation ratio from 6s all the way to 10s, which meant they were stuck with pretty much the same cable spool diameter as the old downtube levers. This was getting a bit sketchy at 9s, and totally went to crap with the second 10s generation when the cables went under the tape, since the extra friction combined with the short cable pull produced a really marginal signal to noise ratio in the system.
IIRC they changed the actuation ratio for 11s, but oddly they didn't increase the cable pull by very much, which still meant the cable was being wrapped around a pretty small diameter spool in the shifter, which causes fatigue. Shimano may be the best, but they sure aren't perfect.
IIRC they changed the actuation ratio for 11s, but oddly they didn't increase the cable pull by very much, which still meant the cable was being wrapped around a pretty small diameter spool in the shifter, which causes fatigue. Shimano may be the best, but they sure aren't perfect.
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#37
just having fun
I think it's because they kept the same RD actuation ratio from 6s all the way to 10s, which meant they were stuck with pretty much the same cable spool diameter as the old downtube levers. This was getting a bit sketchy at 9s, and totally went to crap with the second 10s generation when the cables went under the tape, since the extra friction combined with the short cable pull produced a really marginal signal to noise ratio in the system.
IIRC they changed the actuation ratio for 11s, but oddly they didn't increase the cable pull by very much, which still meant the cable was being wrapped around a pretty small diameter spool in the shifter, which causes fatigue. Shimano may be the best, but they sure aren't perfect.
IIRC they changed the actuation ratio for 11s, but oddly they didn't increase the cable pull by very much, which still meant the cable was being wrapped around a pretty small diameter spool in the shifter, which causes fatigue. Shimano may be the best, but they sure aren't perfect.