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Need suggestions cutting brake housings

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Old 02-18-24, 08:47 PM
  #26  
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Scott, I am working with those type cables right now also and am following the thread with interest.
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Old 02-18-24, 09:05 PM
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I've used a dremel to cut and now have a Pedro's cutter. Ususally it's OK with just reaming out the center with an awl, but sometimes I give it a little touch on the bench grinder, then the awl.

But there's a lot of helpful hints on youtube;
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Old 02-18-24, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
Interesting you say that. The cables I installed that got me started on this thread were that exact style where step one is to cut off the style of end you don't want. Seemed like a genius idea to me.
They were probably made long before anyone thought of threading a cable through dual control levers, frame tubes, handlebars and stems, and steerers. Or maybe they weren't. Or, actually, if you cut them close enough to the end you're going to toss, there might be enough solder between the strands to keep the end from fraying as you try to push it through a little hole.
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Old 02-19-24, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
They were probably made long before anyone thought of threading a cable through dual control levers, frame tubes, handlebars and stems, and steerers. Or maybe they weren't. Or, actually, if you cut them close enough to the end you're going to toss, there might be enough solder between the strands to keep the end from fraying as you try to push it through a little hole.
All I know is, trying to thread a cut cable (with Park cutters) through a gripshift with a sharp turn in a plastic tube, after the wrap around the barrel, was a MFer. Having that solder-ball-end, makes all the difference.
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Old 02-19-24, 08:58 AM
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Logically, the major concern is getting a quick and easy cut that the cable moves freely through. The little end caps almost certainly exist to compensate for a certain level of unevenness.
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Old 02-19-24, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
That definitely isn’t necessary. The housing shouldn’t crush with quality cutters, which should mostly slide between the coils of the housing before slicing through.
While maybe it "shouldn't be necessary" to cut the housing with a piece of scrap cable inside, it really does make for a cleaner cut and less work to dress the end of the casing once the cut has been made. I've been doing it this way for decades.
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Old 02-19-24, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
While maybe it "shouldn't be necessary" to cut the housing with a piece of scrap cable inside, it really does make for a cleaner cut and less work to dress the end of the casing once the cut has been made. I've been doing it this way for decades.
Cool. I've never done it for decades with no problems whatsoever.
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Old 02-19-24, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by choddo
I just reshape the hole with an awl afterwards. It usually needs just a little help (I have Park Tool cutters too)
+1 The trick universal in the Portland cycling world is to make "pokey tools", sharpened spokes. They work perfectly. You can staple housing to your tool wall or whatever and just slip your pokey tool in it for easy access.

That this hasn't been mentioned once in this thread blows me away. With the tool, you only need to grind to a nice square end to fit the stop. No additional grinding to get to a good clean hole.
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Old 02-19-24, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
That this hasn't been mentioned once in this thread blows me away.
Don't be. You missed post 12:

If the internal liner is getting crushed closed, some people use an old spoke sharpened to a point to open up the liner.
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Old 02-19-24, 11:45 AM
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+1 for using a Dremmel and a cutting wheel, I've tried cable cutters but they always squish it a bit and leave jaggies.

I don't use that modern shift cable outer (pre 84 bikes) so I like my Bowden outers cut nicely.
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Old 02-19-24, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
Suggestions, please. Noobie question.

Last night, I changed out the cables and housings on my 8-year-old daughter's bike, mostly to make them pink, but there were some issues as well.

I'd successfully changed, if I recall correctly, 5 other bike cables in the past year. I use a new Park cable cutter, so I don't figure that is my problem.

Anyhow, the shift cables cut just fine, but I had problems not crushing the thicker short sections of brake housing. I ended up throwing one fresh-cut section away because it had crappy cuts on both ends. I've learned that a bad cut can cause a lot of drag on the cable.

Putting a section of cable into the housing before cutting the housing and cutting both helps substantially. Is that the best practice? How do you make the short sections of housing and then extract the bit of cable left inside if you go that route?
I used to cut housing with a pair of Park cutters, then file the end flat and use an awl or suitably sized nail to ensure a clear opening. Nowadays I simply use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel, which pretty much does it all in one go.
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Old 02-19-24, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
Anyhow, the shift cables cut just fine, but I had problems not crushing the thicker short sections of brake housing. I ended up throwing one fresh-cut section away because it had crappy cuts on both ends. I've learned that a bad cut can cause a lot of drag on the cable.
I just snip off the jaggy bit, attacking from the end rather than the side. You can grind the end flat, a belt sander works well, if you want to do a really good job.
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Old 02-19-24, 05:54 PM
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Quality electrical combination pliers cut housing like butter, leaving straight cut.
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Old 02-19-24, 06:09 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
Suggestions, please. Noobie question.

Last night, I changed out the cables and housings on my 8-year-old daughter's bike, mostly to make them pink, but there were some issues as well.

I'd successfully changed, if I recall correctly, 5 other bike cables in the past year. I use a new Park cable cutter, so I don't figure that is my problem.

Anyhow, the shift cables cut just fine, but I had problems not crushing the thicker short sections of brake housing. I ended up throwing one fresh-cut section away because it had crappy cuts on both ends. I've learned that a bad cut can cause a lot of drag on the cable.

Putting a section of cable into the housing before cutting the housing and cutting both helps substantially. Is that the best practice? How do you make the short sections of housing and then extract the bit of cable left inside if you go that route?
The problem with inserting cabling during the cut is getting the cabling out afterwards. You could end up with stray strands in the housing that can cause problems or you could crush the cut end of the cable in the housing.

It’s best to tilt cutters to line up with the spirals of the brake housing so that you split one of the spirals and only have to cut through a small amount of the steel part. You can practice this method by stripping a bit of plastic away from the metal to learn how to split that spiral.
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Old 02-19-24, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
+1 The trick universal in the Portland cycling world is to make "pokey tools", sharpened spokes. They work perfectly. You can staple housing to your tool wall or whatever and just slip your pokey tool in it for easy access.
Sharpen the threaded end and use the J end for fishing cable ends out of frame tubes. It's perfect for that.
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Old 02-19-24, 07:17 PM
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I'm impressed. So many different approaches to a job that I originally thought was as simple as a skillful "snip".
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Old 02-19-24, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
So many different approaches to a job that I originally thought was as simple as a skillful "snip".
Really that’s all you need.
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Old 02-21-24, 05:47 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
I'm impressed. So many different approaches to a job that I originally thought was as simple as a skillful "snip".
I finally finished putting the hand brake on my cruiser. Cutting the brake housing did turn out to be a simple snip. I used the tine of a fork as a pokey. This is a great thread to learn from.
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