Boiling Brakes and Other Components
#26
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I'm fairly new to this, but I used an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and a little liquid dishwasher detergent. It worked like a charm. For items too big for the ultrasonic cleaner, a good cleaner (a nondescript product I bought at the 99-cent store) and brushes to suit worked well. I tried to minimize contact between caustic cleaners and aluminum, but sometimes it was unavoidable. When nothing else worked, I used whatever was necessary, but rinsed it off quickly and thoroughly. I've done a few bikes now, and a lot of it is technique and not chemicals. Practice makes perfect.
#27
Mechanic/Tourist
Wow, I guess there are a lot of "showroom clean" folks out there. For me as long as a part is functional and not grimy it's fine. I've never seen the need for more than solvent and a brush, perhaps some compressed air. Is there some component of which I'm not aware that requires ultrasonic cleaning in order to perform it's function?
I know chains are a favorite topic for involved cleaning and lubrication protocols, but for me if a cleaning procedure takes more than 5-10 minutes of active involvement I'd rather ride.
I know chains are a favorite topic for involved cleaning and lubrication protocols, but for me if a cleaning procedure takes more than 5-10 minutes of active involvement I'd rather ride.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 01-29-13 at 06:37 AM.
#28
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So what's wrong with the water if it's boiling? 212 is still well below any temp that will affect the metal, and it's significantly below the temp that lubricating oil boils at. I'll ask my friend what temp his washer runs at.
#29
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I have a friend with a big transmission shop. He has a large industrial washer that uses very hot water and detergent to degrease and clean transmission components. He can fit several entire disassembled automatic transmissions, housing and all, in it at once. The parts came out quite hot and quickly dry on the bench.
#30
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When you purchase an old bike of unknown history, I think it's a good idea to take it completely apart, and start over with familiar lubrication in known quantities. Generally, that means eliminating all the old greases/oils, and an ultrasonic cleaner is a very effective way of doing that, not the ONLY way, and possibly not even the best way. I'm not suggesting it for routine maintenance. 'Showroom clean' only happens when a bike is new, or after a complete rebuild. After that, it becomes an object to be ridden more than admired, and routine maintenance/cleaning is usually quite adequate.
#31
Senior Member
I've been using a can of carb/parts cleaner with a basket for cleaning headsets, bottom brackets, derailleurs, and such. It works well, but still struggles with 40+ year old grease that has turned into a thick paste or even brittle plastic. Plus the solvent doesn't last forever and those cans cost nearly $40 to replace.
As an alternative I'm going to try simmering parts like that for a day in a crock pot filled with water and dishwashing liquid. Upon removing the parts from the pot I would spray them down with WD-40 and throw them in a ziplock to prevent rust until I could polish and/or properly relube for installation. From what I've seen here, it looks like the crock pot as a home-made hot tank works pretty well.
As an alternative I'm going to try simmering parts like that for a day in a crock pot filled with water and dishwashing liquid. Upon removing the parts from the pot I would spray them down with WD-40 and throw them in a ziplock to prevent rust until I could polish and/or properly relube for installation. From what I've seen here, it looks like the crock pot as a home-made hot tank works pretty well.
#32
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Thanks, all. I didn't boil them or anything else.
#33
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Boiling chain
You can put the chain in an old frying pan and set the heat to very low or warm. After a half hour there is NO moisture in the chain.
#34
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Okey-Dokey.
Last edited by well biked; 04-06-20 at 05:18 PM.
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