Making unobtainable parts: Record derailleur stop pin
#26
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Fantastic job.
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But it's good to familiarize yourself with the indexer anyway. I'm sure I'm going to tell you something you already know.....but in case not: No climb cutting on that manual mill. Always feed into the end mill as it turns towards your work. That little bench mill is a jewel. I'd make some new lead screws and keep the ways scraped. All manual mills have some backlash though. Just go past your mark on the handle scales and back it out in the other direction before you lock the table down.
Last edited by Zinger; 07-28-13 at 08:10 PM.
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Crazy, man! I almost wish I needed one...
Very fine!
Very fine!
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I used to have one. Mine didn't have the gear box but had a full set of changeable spur gears. Had a 3c collet closer too. They are a little slow for high speed polishing but they actually make nice little collet machine as well as a hobby lathe. The leather belt drive is actually pretty fast to work with as compared to a modern gear head lathe.
I'm trying to ID the OPs lathe.....Old Clausing maybe?
You can also use a simple hex collet block and vise instead of the indexer for milling the hex. That's a cool little bench mill
And you ain't never going to keep up with a CNC lathe for mass producing that part, btw. Even faster is a screw machine using hex stock.
Mine is rear drive and has a much longer bed. It also doesn't have the gear box, but I found a full gear set in his shop. I'm not looking to do any production, just hobby work and learning.
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Great little machine for it. If I didn't move around so much in my 30s I'd still have mine. But after being in the business for over 3 decades that's one of the last things I want to do on my time anymore.
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BTW
Most of these little models of Southbends are rear drive either with a 4 step V belt or a 3 step leather belt and they have a back gear. The leather belt models are faster to change....as fast as a geared head. They also made a similar styled and designed 13". They are still in business it appears.
And they still make parts for your lathe
Last edited by Zinger; 07-29-13 at 01:17 AM.
#33
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But it's good to familiarize yourself with the indexer anyway. I'm sure I'm going to tell you something you already know.....but in case not: No climb cutting on that manual mill. Always feed into the end mill as it turns towards your work. That little bench mill is a jewel. I'd make some new lead screws and keep the ways scraped. All manual mills have some backlash though. Just go past your mark on the handle scales and back it out in the other direction before you lock the table down.
I once looked in to replacing them but the cost was astronomical. By the way, I also have the horizontal head for that little mill. I bought that machine, and a 7 inch Atlas shaper, from the same old fellow. He also had a 10 inch Atlas lathe, which I sold when I found that Logan, which is a much better machine. I had a South Bend lathe at one time too...used to tinker with and restore this sort of thing but moving these big things around helped to ruin my back so, no more.
One thing I like about these old, American made, cast iron machines, aside from the Benchmaster, is that they DO still make parts for them. South Bend is still in business, as is Logan Actuator Company. I priced a 27 tooth gear one time, though, so I could learn to cut metric threads, and the cost of one gear was nearly what I paid for the whole machine! Still, it's great to know spare parts are available in one needs them.
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You're a lucky guy, Thirdgenbird. Those old South Bends are great machines and, if it was your grandfather's and never spent time in a production shop, it's likely in very good condition.
#35
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Very nice Scott!
This thread fascinates me, but I know very little about machining, and have no idea what those of you who do know are talking about most of the time
This thread fascinates me, but I know very little about machining, and have no idea what those of you who do know are talking about most of the time
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Wonderful progression of pics and result - Thanks
So how many times have you turned a 25mm seat post down to 24mm...
So how many times have you turned a 25mm seat post down to 24mm...
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Holding the bottom end would be easy, if you didn't crush it in the chuck. But how to hold the other end while you finish off the bottom end is the kicker.
It'd take a much better machinist than me to figure that one out.
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Thanks Zandoval, and Pars...and everyone. Answer to your question? Never. And I aint about to start now. As Harry sez, "a man's got to know his limitations"...and mine are many. The tricky part of doing a seat post is how to hold the sucker in the lathe while doing it.
Holding the bottom end would be easy, if you didn't crush it in the chuck. But how to hold the other end while you finish off the bottom end is the kicker.
It'd take a much better machinist than me to figure that one out.
Holding the bottom end would be easy, if you didn't crush it in the chuck. But how to hold the other end while you finish off the bottom end is the kicker.
It'd take a much better machinist than me to figure that one out.
If you have a slotted faceplate for your lathe you could probably come up with a jerry-rigged clamping setup of some sort if it were well secured. It would take some doing and dialing in. Emery cloth and file (with a handle on it for safety) are your friends on a lathe.
Last edited by Zinger; 07-29-13 at 02:45 PM.
#41
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Very cool, Scott. I dig this kind of stuff.
Does your wife help you with the photos?
Does your wife help you with the photos?
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#42
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You'd just need a bigger lathe with the thru-chuck hole big enough to clear the clamp while you turned it in a 4 jaw chuck. You'd put pieces of brass between the chuck jaws and seatpost so as not to mark the seatpost side that you'd already turned. Dialing in 4 jaws is a lot like truing bicycle wheels except you've only got 4 directions to adjust instead of 36
If you have a slotted faceplate for your lathe you could probably come up with a jerry-rigged clamping setup of some sort if it were well secured. It would take some doing and dialing in. Emery cloth and file (with a handle on it for safety) are your friends on a lathe.
If you have a slotted faceplate for your lathe you could probably come up with a jerry-rigged clamping setup of some sort if it were well secured. It would take some doing and dialing in. Emery cloth and file (with a handle on it for safety) are your friends on a lathe.
#43
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but figured static shots with no hands in them might be boring in this thread.
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Too cool, of course us old farts just learned to do without them years ago.
How about turning some 151 track rings down to 3/32"?
How about turning some 151 track rings down to 3/32"?
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Great work which brings back memories...When I was a kid, long long ago, one of my closest friend's dad ran a small machine shop. We tinkered with old motorcycles and asked him to machine parts for them, and though busy, he always found the time.
#46
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There were a couple guys looking SouthPaw...they'll pipe up I hope. Thanks.
EDIT: got this note just now from a fellow in England. Heh ...heh ...figures.
maybe not so un-obtainable as I thought. funny....
"Challenging exercise I am sure, but don't lose too much sleep over it as I sent the 2 guys who needed them new old stock originals a few days ago."
EDIT: got this note just now from a fellow in England. Heh ...heh ...figures.
maybe not so un-obtainable as I thought. funny....
"Challenging exercise I am sure, but don't lose too much sleep over it as I sent the 2 guys who needed them new old stock originals a few days ago."
#47
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And I see you're getting work offers right here in this thread.
Last edited by Zinger; 07-31-13 at 04:46 AM. Reason: sp
#49
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I know that song now, Dawes-man...thanks to you!
By the way, I've been exchanging a few emails with that fellow in England. Turns out he is the Campy Gran Sport derailleur king.
Sent me some fabulous pics. I'll post them.
Last edited by rootboy; 07-31-13 at 05:44 AM.
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Geeze, you guys crack me up. Or have me confused with someone else. Let's see....
Dbakl needs to trim 1/32nds off a chain ring. That would be 1/64th of each side of course, and polish.
Jim Muller needs to cut internal 25-1 threads on a headset top cup and lock ring.
Zinger thinks I can possibly, somehow, make a GEAR! Let alone one with 127 teeth.
Then there's that job to remove .5 millimeters off a seat post.
Sheesh. I think I know an old tool maker back in Utah that could maybe pull these off. But he's 82 years old. And nearly blind.
Haven't seen him in 15 years. Maybe he's dead. Which is a sad thing, for all of us, I think. Not many of those old masters left.
Lately, when fumbling around in my shop, I wish I had spent more time with him.