royphotog

I am guilty of that also, but I have been trying to get better at the follow-up. some people take a lot of time to reply to threads and I figure they should get at least a thank you and in this case there was a visual to show and for me to learn from. And you reminded me to reply to another thread about rims that I ended up buying.

Iride01 

I liked riding 27" tires on road bikes. I even miss them. However they went by the wayside before the turn of the Century and 700C's are the favored now for road bikes.

As a result you see all the new tire tech and high quality tires only marketed as 700C's or what ever the normal size is for other types of bikes sold today.

So you might think about that some. I got rid of my favorite ride 10 years ago because the choice of 27" road tires was so limited.

hokiefyd 

TPI is generally not given on less expensive tires. But even when it is given, it's not always so useful. For example:

https://www.continental-tires.com/bi...rand-prix-5000

Continental list the GP5000 has "3/330" for TPI. They're saying that there are three layers of fabric with a "total" TPI of 330. But that means that each layer is 110 TPI...and they've just layered three together. The math doesn't work that way. In other words, a tire with 5 layers of 20 TPI fabric is not "supple" like a tire with 2 layers of 50 TPI fabric, or some other combination of higher TPI count casing layers. Schwalbe's website states they list the EPI (Ends Per Inch, but same thing) for a single layer of fabric, even if multiple layers are used. So Schwalbe would list the GP5000 as "110" TPI.

Unless you know exactly how TPI is measured, the marketed or claimed number may not be useful (or even misleading). I would say the Kenda tire is probably in the 20 TPI range. You could probably measure it yourself -- take that tire that you removed, cut it open, and lay a ruler on the inside, perpendicular to the threads. How many are there in an inch? It looks pretty coarse -- as in, large threads with a relatively low TPI count.

royphotog

I was seeing that as I got back into cycling last year, 27" was a thing of the past, and it makes sense that nothing new is coming out for them. My plan is to repaint the 1979 Centurian that I have now and ride it, along with the mid-90s Rocky Mountain Sherpa that I bought off Craigslist in August, till next summer, If I am still riding a lot I will look at something new in the road bike world. I can see that a lot of improvements have taken place and I am sure I will enjoy something new more.

cyccommute 

The S-bulge isn’t an indicator of a blow out. If you look at rogerphotog’s picture, you can see that there are still cords holding the tire together. There is more than one ply of fabric in the tire. For the tire to blow out at the bulge, it would need to break more plies and the rubber of the tread. That’s a lot to break through. The tire will wear faster because of the increased squirm but it won’t necessarily blow out.

cyccommute 

There really was no need to get rid of your favorite bike. It is relatively easy to change a 27” wheel to a 700C wheel. Most 27” era bikes have brakes that are slotted for exactly that purpose. A 27” wheel has a tire bead diameter of 630mm while a 700C has a bead diameter of 622mm. The brakes only have to be moved down 4mm (5/32” for the metrically challenged).

Eric S.

I was simply relaying my own experience, not predicting the outcome of continued use of royphotog's tire.

CliffordK

I have had tires that didn't seat well for one reason or another that had an extra curve similar to above, so always worth checking. But, the inside photo shows that there was likely a lot of internal damage to the tire.

Bill Kapaun

Which took more than a day before the OP posted that pic.
Which is the primary reason I have no further interest in ever trying to assist the OP.

royphotog

Well thank you, Bill, I am glad to hear that.